So here is what I have, a 91 Trail Boss 4X4 250. I rebuilt the motor upper and lower ends. replaced all seals bearings and gaskets. Got it all together and it started right up so I got one issue fixed. I noticed where the U-shaped exhaust pipe meets the tail pipe/muffler there is something spritzing out of the pipe junction that smells like fuel. As well the U-shaped pipe is extremely moist on the inside which leads me to believe that I am getting too much fuel possibly, or my muffler may be clogged and producing too much back pressure. Then I thought well darn I forgot to clean the carb, So I cleaned it and now it will not start at all. I am not sure if I have the Air pilot screw set right. Or the Throttle Set Screw set right. I am getting awesome spark, but am unsure with boring it out .040 oversize using a 73mm Wiseco piston, does my gap on my spark plug need to increase as well? When I bored out my 74 CJ5 V-8 I had to incres the gap from .035 to .043. I have not figured out the right combination yet to get this machine running great. Any pointers would be appreciated more than writing can show.

my 2010 sportsman 550 had a bad throttle cable that was sticking and the safty switch wasnt killing the motor. Now i have a new throttle cable and at idle its fine. As soon as i push the throttle and break the ect connection ( even if im not giving it any gas) i get an engine code and it goes into limp mode. Once i release the throttle the connection is remade and the engine code goes away. If i hold the connection together and rev the fourwheeler it revs fine.

my 2010 sportsman 550 had a bad throttle cable that was sticking and the safty switch wasnt killing the motor. Now i have a new throttle cable and at idle its fine. As soon as i push the throttle and break the ect connection ( even if im not giving it any gas) i get an engine code and it goes into limp mode. Once i release the throttle the connection is remade and the engine code goes away. If i hold the connection together and rev the fourwheeler it revs fine.

Hello all. This is my first post here. I hope this site helps me solve a problem and maybe I could help others sometime!

Anyway, I have a 1999 Polaris sportsman 335 and the oil cooling fan does not come on at all. I have tried to bypass the temp sensor by unplugging the 2 yellow/black wires coming from the sensor and turned the key to on…nothing. I have power going to the fan as the red/white and orange/black wires coming from the fan are both "hot" and light up my test light.

Now, I was able to get the fan working when I unplugged the orange/black wire from the fan and grounded it to the frame. I see this orange/black wire goes to a black box that I think is a ECM??? Is there a wire that I should be checking that comes from this ECM that could be a ground that is loose?…Or would a bad ECM not be allowing a ground connection? Is there a way to test the ECM itself?

Much thanks in advance!

I have a 1995 sport 400 4×4 and the cdi has a short in it. I was given another that has the same number of wires but there is a green wire on the new one and a blue wire on the old one. I don’t want to try it for fear of damaging something. I have no numbers on the new one or even know what it came off of. the old one has cu2510 on it. thanks in advance freight

I have a 1995 sport 400 4×4 and the cdi has a short in it. I was given another that has the same number of wires but there is a green wire on the new one and a blue wire on the old one. I don’t want to try it for fear of damaging something. I have no numbers on the new one or even know what it came off of. the old one has cu2510 on it. thanks in advance freight

Is it normal for the engine oil level to vary, depending on engine temp, as much as 1/2-3/4" over full mark when engine is up to temp? I just did an oil/filter change on my ’12 500 HO LE in June, and when done, the oil level was right at the full mark (after filling it with two quarts of Polaris oil). This past weekend, I took it up to a friends hunting property, and let my brother-in-law ride it around while I did camp chores. He is new to ATV riding, but seemed to be doing OK. Then after a couple of hours, he walks back to camp to tell me he dumped it on its side and couldn’t lift it back upright by himself. When I walked back down hill to where it was, I found it lying on its right side. He hooked a sapling with the left front tire, and it flipped him on its side. We lifted it upright, and after a quick check over, I hit the starter and it fired up pretty quickly. Nothing sounded unusual, so I drove it back up to the camp (about 500 yards). I shut it off and did a more through inspection, and when I checked the oil level, it was 3/4" over the full mark. I checked for water in the oil (removed oil tank drain plug just enough to let a bit drain out, and no water was seen). I checked oil consistency and smell, and there wasn’t any gas contamination. I decided to not use it any more, until I could get it home and check further. The next day, when home, I again checked the oil level, and it was now right at the full mark, not over as before. The oil looks great, with no signs of water or gas contamination, so I am not able to explain the difference in levels, unless it is normal for it to read high when hot.

Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t?

Thanks

Is it normal for the engine oil level to vary, depending on engine temp, as much as 1/2-3/4" over full mark when engine is up to temp? I just did an oil/filter change on my ’12 500 HO LE in June, and when done, the oil level was right at the full mark (after filling it with two quarts of Polaris oil). This past weekend, I took it up to a friends hunting property, and let my brother-in-law ride it around while I did camp chores. He is new to ATV riding, but seemed to be doing OK. Then after a couple of hours, he walks back to camp to tell me he dumped it on its side and couldn’t lift it back upright by himself. When I walked back down hill to where it was, I found it lying on its right side. He hooked a sapling with the left front tire, and it flipped him on its side. We lifted it upright, and after a quick check over, I hit the starter and it fired up pretty quickly. Nothing sounded unusual, so I drove it back up to the camp (about 500 yards). I shut it off and did a more through inspection, and when I checked the oil level, it was 3/4" over the full mark. I checked for water in the oil (removed oil tank drain plug just enough to let a bit drain out, and no water was seen). I checked oil consistency and smell, and there wasn’t any gas contamination. I decided to not use it any more, until I could get it home and check further. The next day, when home, I again checked the oil level, and it was now right at the full mark, not over as before. The oil looks great, with no signs of water or gas contamination, so I am not able to explain the difference in levels, unless it is normal for it to read high when hot.

Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t?

Thanks

hey guys can anyone tell me if this kit fits my 2010 ranger 400? its the only ranger kit available on the site. i asked on the ranger forum but they don’t seem to know, already threw out an email to thor but he hasnt responded. thanks in advance

Polaris Ranger XP HID Light Kit 2008 +

Hey all, when I put my Sportsman 500ho into gear, it gives a buck, a little chirp and stalls. Used to be very occasionally, but today was repeatedly. Sometimes it would try to jump backwards, but usually forwards. After the stall, it would start and I’d go on my way.
One of the guys I was riding with, thinks it’s the primary clutch bearing but I’m not so sure b/c of the occasional lurch backwards. Any ideas or opinions?

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