Hey there I got a 2014 Polaris scrambler 1000 with about 300m on it and the starter went. Starter that is on it has 11 teeth any one know if the old starter off the 850 with 12 teeth will work, Polaris says that it will work but usually different number of teeth doesn’t work

My 800 Sportsman is dead. NOTHING happens when I turn the key. Winch is dead when key is in ON position. Have 12.9 volts at the battery. terminals clean and tight. Kill switch is in center position. Manual says to reset circuit breaker.WHAT CIRCUIT BREAKER? WHERE IS IT? What else should I be looking for?

My 800 Sportsman is dead. NOTHING happens when I turn the key. Winch is dead when key is in ON position. Have 12.9 volts at the battery. terminals clean and tight. Kill switch is in center position. Manual says to reset circuit breaker.WHAT CIRCUIT BREAKER? WHERE IS IT? What else should I be looking for?

Hey there everyone. I’m new to this forum and forums in general so please excuse me if I posted in an incorrect location or make some overly obvious newbie error!

I just purchased a 2001 Sportsman 400 for primarily hunting purposes. It was not in perfect condition but was in the right price range and the obvious problems did not concern me. There were some serious electrical issues which were caused by an apparent lack of use and a mouse infestation. I have gone through the whole bike and do have all systems functioning again. This is when I started on all the lubrication points. I noticed that the engine oil was way overfull in the reservoir and the coolant overflow bottle was about half low. I didn’t put two and two together until I drained the oil. It was not milky but very obvious that it was mixed with coolant. After much reading on similar threads throughout this forum I started troubleshooting. First of all the weep hole at the water pump is not clogged and very dry. So I assume no mechanical or oil seal issue. I topped off and burped coolant and flushed and changed the oil to be sure this hadn’t happened over a long period of time. After just ten minutes of running and a full cool down the overflow reservoir is a half inch low, and after slowly pulling sump drain plug I was visually able to watch water drain first before oil so definitely a serious leak. So I have seen people mention head gasket and possibly base gasket as well. Worst case scenario obviously some sort of cracked jug or block.

So very long winded I apologize and ill get to the question. With the above mentioned troubleshooting where would you guys start? Head gasket? And if I go through that trouble should i do the base gasket as well to rule it out since I am in there? I have a strong small engine and aircraft engine repair background but am new to ATVS. The process does not concern me but I do want to avoid unnecessary parts and extensive labor if it is not needed. Does it seem plausible that the leak is occurring there since I believe I have ruled out the pump shaft seals? Also the machine starts and runs great idles fine, does not lag on throttle and as far as i can tell no smoke or sweet smell in exhaust but I have nothing to compare to. So I was hesitant with the head gasket. Is it possible to fail in such a way to allow coolant in oil but not combustion chamber?

Any insight or recommendations would greatly be appreciated. The hunting season is approaching and I wasn’t looking for a project ( I have enough of those!) LOL. I’m really hoping to get her up and running reliably soon.

Thanks for any advice!!

I think my stock battery is a weak POS, any suggestions for a sealed unit that’s not overkill or too expensive?

Brand new 900 rzr speedometer /tach/ and transmission indicator quits and engine light comes on. 2 miles on machine.Can anyone help?

Hey guys, so I’ve got my 2013 Sportsman 800 EFI torn down to the point where I’ve got the coolant hoses disconnected, and all the bolts off that hold the radiator to the fan shroud, but I’m having trouble with the actual removal of the radiator.

There are two posts on the bottom of the radiator that go through holes in the frame, and have bushings above and below, I assume to cushion and support the radiator. I don’t see a way to get the lower bushings off the posts, and then to lift the radiator up enough to get those posts out of the frame holes to then slide the radiator out one side or the other. Can anyone give me any tips or tricks to doing this?

I am having an issue with my 2010 sportsman the quad sat for a long time but we took it out and fired it back up .
Everything works fine including the charging system however the battery indicator light is flashing as well as the needle .
We have checked the charging system its charging to a max of 14.4 volts at high engine rpm and 13.5 at idle under heavy electrical load at idle .
Wtf is going on? The diagnostic mode shows the charging system at .7volts? yet the system is working fine .
I think the sensing wire to the speedo head must be open but cant figure out what wire tells the speedo head what voltage is being produced by the charging system .Can any polaris tech shed some light on this? the quad works fine but the blinking is driving me nuts!!!!

I’m rebuilding the whole motor with new bearings crank piston and rings . A local shop said to put a 1/4 of a quarter of trans fluid in crankcase. Has anyone ever heard of this. It seems weird and like it would smoke bad?

Hi – I’m new to the forum but not ATV’s. I have an ’06 Sportsman that I’m having trouble with and need some help. It set in my shop too long with a bad battery and I didn’t start way to long and didn’t treat the gas. When I did get the battery replaced, I started and run with bad gas – like a DA, did not drain and now I can’t get started. It’s definitely a fuel delivery system issue as I can start with a "gas rag". I have since drained the tank, replaced and treated the gas. Still no go. So next I pulled the injector and cleaned thoroughly and still no luck. When I turn on the key, I hear the fuel pump, but no fuel through the injector. I am getting gas through injector during the start cycle (as the engine tries to crank) but not steady; it sprays a little first and then another "blast" about 2/3’s through the crank cycle . It appears I’m only getting spray from maybe two holes, but not all four? I don’t mind springing for a new injector if I know that’s the fix, but want to throw out the problem here and see if I get any hits before spending money to start replacing parts w/o thorough troubleshooting? Any help will be greatly appreciated… Thx – Cris