The front left hub on my 2000 sportsman is leaking all the oil out. I already ordered the hub seal but I was wondering, will I damage the bearings etc if I continue to drive it or is the oil just for the awd system?
2006 Hawkeye with only 191 miles. This is a friends rig that he brought to me to work on. Myself I’ve been through many carbs, The original issue was a bad float valve causing the carb to overflow when sitting. I removed the carb replaced the needle valve and seat when I opened up the carb I found rest in the bowl as well as the idle jets opening clogged, I completely cleaned every jet and any ports with carb cleaner and compressed air. I have since then cleaned it 4 more times with the same end result of the bike starts fairly easily when cold and will idle fair when feathering the choke, but dies the second you touch the throttle. BTW the needle valve replacement did stop the fuel leak problem. Thanks in advance for any information you all have.
New to Forum.
Need some help! My 2006 Polaris sportsman 500 over heated and now when i put it in high gear it acts like it is in low gear, maybe some kind of safety mode or something to protect motor?
Starts and runs great, disconnected battery for a couple of days, played with shifter and seams everything is working correctly. All fluids are topped off.
Let me note I’m not a motor guy, but get buy with u-tube and manuals. Make a living building Church Furniture…lol.
2009 850 XP – A little background, was loading up to go down to the deer camp on labor day and the battery (1 year old) was dead, or at least not charged enough to start it even though it had only been sitting a couple of weeks. Not a big deal, hooked up the charger for a few minutes and it fired up and was fine the rest of the day.
Headed back down to the camp this morning and it started and ran fine when I loaded it up, but when I went to unload it, it had magically turned into a paper weight. Got back home, hooked up the charger and it went straight to float, voltage was 12.4 and even with the charger hooked up it won’t turn over.
Here’s where it starts getting weird. When the key is turned to On there’s no fuel pump noise, and a clicking that I traced to the Chassis Relay. Sometimes it’s constant, sometimes it does it a couple of times, and sometimes nothing. It would also start clicking if I tried to turn on the headlights (didn’t come on) or pulled the brake lever.
I swapped out the Chassis Relay with the Bumper Light Relay to no avail, and the check engine light is not on. After a few minutes on with the charger (on float) the lights did turn on and I think the starter clicked so I’m thinking/hoping it’s just a bad battery.
I set the charger to reconditioning to see if that helps, but that’ll take a while. Anybody ever experienced anything like this or have any suggestions on what else to check if it’s not the battery? I’ve got a multi-meter and a repair manuel, just not sure where to start.
okay well i know it has been a long time since i posted anything, but this morning i went to go start up my atv and it wouldn’t start so i thought that it was the battery. so i went inside and grabbed my heavy duty charger, put it on the 50 amp emergency start option and went to try and start it which i have done numerous times, and then all of a sudden i started to smell something burning. so i then turned the key off unplugged everything and after some investigating i found the little rubber boot actually started to burn you know the little red boot that goes up and over the starter post where you connect the + lead wire coming from the solenoid. so i then thought to myself no big deal i will just grab this brand new starter that i have had since about Jan. and put it on. so i connected the new starter but before i put it back in i said to myself let me go ahead and try it just to make sure before i go putting everything back together. And wouldnt u know it this brand new starter did not work.so then i checked to see if i had 12 volts at the battery which i did i actually had 12.92. so then i went ahead and tried jumping the posts on the solenoid which that had no effect either. so then i even went as far as connecting the lead + wire from the battery directly to the other post on the solenoid and still no dice.so i then took my manual out to check and see if i as getting 12 volts up at the terminal board which i was at the red/white wire. so then i checked to see if i had 12 volts at the white/red wire which at first i didnt until i realized that i had to have the start button pushed, in order to get the 12 volts which i also had and then i checked to see if i had 12 volts on the little wire coming from the solenoid which i also had, also checked the ground which was fine. now heres the thing that i dont understand and maybe you guys can help me understand now when i push the start button, shouldnt i get 12 volts on the other solenoid post because i dont get anything when i push the start button. i just want to make sure i buy the right thing. because i find it really hard to believe that this starter is bad even though it might very well be bad because i even tried bench testing and it did nothing. so any help will be great.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
RUBEN
hi everyone I am looking to replace my transmission in my 2010 ranger 400 as it is damaged from mud ingestion and all the internal repairs are adding up to the cost of some used transmissions that are newer, can anyone tell me if one from a 2014 sportsman 400 would work? thanks.
I need to replace the batteries on my 2002 Polaris 400 Sportsman. I checked out 4 Wheel Online and saw the Bikemaster AGM Batteries. Is it any good? Any recommendations?
I need to replace the batteries on my 2002 Polaris 400 Sportsman. I checked out 4 Wheel Online and saw the Bikemaster AGM Batteries. Is it any good? Any recommendations?
