My polaris scrambler 400 starts and then dies after a few minutes. It starts to bog down and then dies. I thought it was fuel, so put on diffrent carb, new fuel lines, filter, and tried a diffrent tank. When the engine dies it locks up, i can rotate clutch back and forth several times and that loosens it up. I just had the lower end rebuilt with all new seals and bearings. If it locks up and I let it sit for awhile it will cool down and be fine. I really am stumped and need help.

I have a 97 trail boss 250. It starts and runs fine, but sometimes when I’m plowing my small driveway with it and using the winch, the battery will drain so much that I’m not able to pull the plow up or down. I have to stop, put it in the garage and charge the battery. I’ve put 2 new batteries in it, but that hasn’t helped. The battery has 12.5 volts. When I start it and rev it up, the voltage doesn’t change. That made me think my stator is going bad so I took it off, got ready to order a new one and got to thinking that it looked like new still, maybe I should test it first. I have a manual on disc, but of course I can’t find it. I have no idea what ohms the resistance should be and the best way to test it. I also don’t know how to check the rectifier. Sure wish I could find that darn disc!

Sat morn I found a puddle of oil under my quad, a quick search showed it was coming from behind a rear axle. Pulled the fill plug and what seemed like a litre of water came out.

Here is what it takes to do the job.
Parts- new seal and a speedi sleeve.

Pull wheel, crack axle nut, top a-arm bolt, tie upper arm up out of the way, pull axle, drain fluid.
Now everything is out of the way. Carefully drill some 1/4 in holes in the middle of the seal so you can get in behind and pull it off.
See pic for grooves worn in the shaft.

I put a very light amount of RTV on the inside of the sleeve so its sealed and installed it with the supplied tool and a small hammer.
The new seal I preped with some lube(deep creep) on the seal lips, and a light amount of rtv on the outside and pushed it on, carefull not to fold over the seal lips (which it tried to do a few times).
The sleeve stuck out an 1/8in, I pushed it over with a screwdriver and then tapped it down evenly with a hammer. I’m sure you could leave it as its very thin and won’t take out your axle.
Add fluid and re-install axle/wheel

About a 10min job once you have the parts.
*Parts note the oem seal is 3 lips $20CAD not in stock.
Canadian bearings seal is 2 lips slightly thicker and $5CAD
Central auto parts had the speedi sleeve ar $35CAD

We will see if the cheaper seal holds up, I try to any bearing related stuff there as its usually better quality and always cheaper.
Part #s are in the pics.

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hey everyone! i am back with a question reguarding my 2003 trailblazer 250. I am having a problem with what i think may be a couple issues. First off, i didnt have any spark, so i removed the black wire to the CDI and it started and ran great on the first pull. Now ive heard alot of people just run it that way however if im going to set this up for my little one i would like to have all the safety features and kill switches working properly. Where im at now is ive installed a brand new battery (12 volts) and new ignition switch. With the switch on the green netural light comes on. with the key switch on and the kill switch off the netural light is off (Kill switch on netural light on). The eletric start with the key does not work at all, no clicking noise or anything. If i jump the solenoid the bike will start and run great, but only with the black wire dissconnected. I can also start the bike with the pull rope and the black wire dissconnencted. Any ideas?? I thought maybe i have a bad kill switch but it seems like its working based on the netural light display. Maybe a bad CDI? would anyone know how to check either one with a DMM?

Thanks in advance

hey everyone! i am back with a question reguarding my 2003 trailblazer 250. I am having a problem with what i think may be a couple issues. First off, i didnt have any spark, so i removed the black wire to the CDI and it started and ran great on the first pull. Now ive heard alot of people just run it that way however if im going to set this up for my little one i would like to have all the safety features and kill switches working properly. Where im at now is ive installed a brand new battery (12 volts) and new ignition switch. With the switch on the green netural light comes on. with the key switch on and the kill switch off the netural light is off (Kill switch on netural light on). The eletric start with the key does not work at all, no clicking noise or anything. If i jump the solenoid the bike will start and run great, but only with the black wire dissconnected. I can also start the bike with the pull rope and the black wire dissconnencted. Any ideas?? I thought maybe i have a bad kill switch but it seems like its working based on the netural light display. Maybe a bad CDI? would anyone know how to check either one with a DMM?

Thanks in advance

I have a 99 Polaris sportsman 500 that is backfiring through the carburetor. It will start fine and idle perfect, but as soon as I touch the throttle it’ll pop and backfire like crazy at the carb. I can let go of the throttle and it’ll settle back to idling.

I herd that a worn cam or a torn intake boot might be my problem. It seemed like it did this all at once without any warning. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Rob

Sorry to post this again, as I have in the Sportsman specific area.
I have a 99 and 05 Sportsman 500. Just recently the 99’s clutch has be rubbing on the cover. I know that this is common with heat and warpage to the cover. Question is, will the newer style like on my 05 fit on this machine.

Thank you

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I have tried heating it and prying it out and it just doesn’t budge. I dont want to damage the hub itself. Any tricks to this that i am missing?

I have tried heating it and prying it out and it just doesn’t budge. I dont want to damage the hub itself. Any tricks to this that i am missing?

Ive got an early 90s 350…got two..the last one i recently picked up and fiund out the oil pump cable had broke. Got a new cable and now realize the little spring is broken too. I cannot find one online. Now im also paranoid about the oil pump and wonder if i shouldnt just start pre mixing it. I seen online where people take a little gear out near the carb but im unsure why. Assume it needs to be lubricated.

Any thoughts is appreciated.