My daughter broke her front right hub on her 2014 850 sportsman. Anyone ever heard of a hub breaking? I’m guessing this is very rare. Side impact on a rock??? She also got a flat tire other side-rear. But added two plugs and all is good. Still going to replace the tires. Just need a hub, oh well.

Hello everyone,

Got a odd problem that I think maybe a voltage regulator problem. (from reading other posts)

But I’d like to list what has been going on and ask if anyone has any suggestions as to what could be the problem with my 2014 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI.

Day 1: Instrument panel will not display anything, took it out blow dried it, it started to display some LCD characters. Ran the 4-wheeler for a good 30 mins at 30mph in H gear. Everything started to work again.

Day 2 : Battery light started blinking, speedo wouldn’t move, ran it for a good 30 mins or so, light went away. Checked off voltage, it was at 12.65, when running above 14.4 volts. Everything worked fine for a day, speedo was moving, blinking battery light went away.

Day 3: Battery light blinking again, so I went and got a new battery, thinking eh, maybe it’s a bad cell.

Day 4: Battery light blinking, and HOT light on. (Started to research possible cause of problem and just let it sit.)

Day 5: Hot light no longer is on, no Codes show up, I get a "WAIT" display on the LCD that shows up (no codes displayed, as in numbers) then about 30 seconds or less it says "END". No code 12 shows up or anything like that, Just shows "WAIT" and "END".

Day 5: Hot light still off, but battery light is still blinking, and now the shifter will not read "P" for park, it always shows "R" or higher. "N, L, and H" all display without a problem.

The machine seems to run fine, it has 50 hours on it, one known problem is the instrument cluster has a crack 50% across the face of it. I tried drying it out with a hair dryer (this got it working again, somewhat..lol) But it has allot of condensation on the lens. The drier seemed to make it just worse in the lens area.

So anyhow, I’m a bit confused with the "HOT" light coming on then gone for 2 days now, the battery light, and now the shifter not reading correctly when it’s in Park.

I figure I best replace the instrument cluster for the crack is surely letting in more water than normal.

My "guess" is the voltage regulator is bad, or the instrument cluster is just so saturated with water it could be the cause of faulty readings.

I checked for any signs of broken wires or damage, but this machine is just for getting my disabled brother back and forth about 1200′ and is 6 months old.

Sad thing is I located the voltage regulator, but there is really no information on the 2014 models that I can find after hours of searching.

My guess is I will have to remove it to even find the part #, every website I’ve visited, I can’t locate the part. (most likely uses the same part from a previous year is my guess..)

Does anyone know how to test a voltage regulator on this year and make, and could the instrument panel be the whole source of the problem? (Being it has large droplets all over the speedo window, and the crack.)

But anyhow, I strapped for cash, I may end up taking it to Polaris but eh, I’m sort of "Sticker" shocked and would like to learn more about this machine and fix it myself. (Plan on ordering the service manual)

Currently my plan is to order a new Instrument Cluster on monday. (it’s cracked anyhow) and in the mean time find a way to test the voltage regulator.

But all this is guess work, I mean, it’s odd one day, it says it’s "HOT" even when it hasn’t been driven. Then it goes away the next day. the LCD and speedo are working fine. But the battery icon keeps blinking away, thus there is some sort of power or charging problem. Plus now the shifter won’t detect that it’s in park, granted it has no problem detecting all the other gears.

Anyhow sorry for the long post but I wanted to give everyone as much information as possible, maybe it will help?

Let me know if you have any ideas to what could cause all this, I’m really thinking it’s the regulator, or just the instrument cluster is so waterlogged it could be draining the battery and tossing out erroneous messages.

But if anyone knows how to test the voltage regulator or has any clue to why the cluster is glitching out on me, I’d appreciate the help. In the end DIY has always saved me money on my car and trucks. Plus I enjoy the whole challenge and learning process.

But yeah if someone could help a guy out that would be great, my brother is a retired marine and has a bad knee. He needs this bike for short trips to visit mom and dad.

I’m having him drive it in "L" for now, hoping things will return to normal. (knowing they most likely won’t..)

But reply if you have any suggestions, I’m sorta at a loss as to what could be the problem. I’ll most likely clean up ground wires tomorrow.

Thanks for your time,
Smeagol

I am lookin for a crank for a 2011 sportsman 850xp any ideas where i can find one:ponder::ponder:

I got the 400 from a guy who hit a deer with it he said. broke his arm and collar bone and wanted it gone. most of the plastics were cracked or broken but it ran great….for a while. Now I have to remove plug, and spray carb cleaner in to get it to start, then it wont idle I have to hold slight throttle to keep it going, and when I give it throttle to go it bogs down and cuts out. What is going on with it? rebuilt carb, new plug, messed with idle and air screw, no change.

I need some help in deciding what is the best course of action. I have a 1994 Trail Boss 250 2 wheel drive. It needs a transmission or new gears in my transmission. Two teeth are broken off of the big gear and two teeth are broken off the small gear. Also found small pieces of a spacer. Pieces that are broken, look similar to the spacer that is partially visible above the broken small gear. Not sure what it is called. What would be the most economical to get the atv running again.
thanks

Attached Thumbnails

 

I have a 2010 Polaris 550 Touring EPS. I recently changed the battery to solve a starting problem and now the EPS Warning light is on and there is no power steering. The problem code showing is IC CAN Comm. w/EPAS EPAS Offline 520230 31. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

I have a 2010 Polaris 550 Touring EPS. I recently changed the battery to solve a starting problem and now the EPS Warning light is on and there is no power steering. The problem code showing is IC CAN Comm. w/EPAS EPAS Offline 520230 31. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Hello all looking for a little assistance on diagnosing a noise coming from my ’02 Scrambler 500 4×4. I recently picked up this machine & dont believe this is a "normal polaris" noise. From start up it has a loud ticking noise from what appears to me to be the top end area. It does continue at a faster pace as the RPMS increase. The machine starts & runs fine & seems to have good power. It also burns oil at an excessive rate, like from full to on the bottom portion of the stick after riding hard for a few hours, however the plug is never saturated with oil & has a light sandy brown color. Also intermittently you can see & smell burning oil (trail of white smoke behind you). I immediately assumed it was something in the valve train & removed the valve cover. I saw nothing noticeably wrong with the valves or cam chain, also removed & inspected the cam chain tensioner assembly. While I had it apart, I followed the manual & adjusted the valves. Once reassembled it did seem slightly quiter but still present. Im thinking next I want to do a compression check but figured I would ask around to see if anyone had some ideas for me. It would let me attach a video but i put a link to a youtube video of it to hopefully help. Any thoughts, ideas, or experiences anyone could share would be greatly appreciated!

I noticed this hose damaged today when I was putting in a new starter. I’ve done a bit of searching and can’t locate a name for this hose. Any help? Attachment 24590

Attached Thumbnails

 

I put a new lower sprocket on the timing chain done all the timing like the book says and now i no compression any ideas piston head looks good just getting fustrated