I’ve been a lurker on this for awhile and finally joined. My questions are in regard to a Sportsman 700 I just picked up for 250.00! Its needs work, but i felt that 250.00 was a reasonable price for a project bike.
Its a 2004.5
– Its needs new rear diff bearings and seals. Will an 05 kit work with model or no?
-The previous owner has said that the 4 wheeler will not disengage out of 4×4, even after rebuild. I’ve found that this is a semi common issue. What is the best plan of attack on that?
-what is the major differences between the 2004.5 and 2004/2005?
Any other info yall may have would be great. Thanks
I’m new to Polaris machines. I inherited a very worn out 500 sportsman that had a Hilliard clutch come apart in the lf hud busting it up. I replaced the Clutch and armature plate and put it all back together and the AWD worked. On the first test ride i noticed moisture in the speedo and shortly after that it started acting up. (Needle jumping all over the place and not indicating the correct speed) At this time the AWD quit working. The indicator light works. The brn/wht wires going to the coils have had an extra ground wire added and I have full battery voltage on the grey wire at the upper connection. I’m very frustrated and need help from you experienced guys that have had this battle. I would not like to spend 300+ dollars on a new speedo so if there is a way of bypassing it please help. My speedo has a 6 pin connector.
I’m new to Polaris machines. I inherited a very worn out 500 sportsman that had a Hilliard clutch come apart in the lf hud busting it up. I replaced the Clutch and armature plate and put it all back together and the AWD worked. On the first test ride i noticed moisture in the speedo and shortly after that it started acting up. (Needle jumping all over the place and not indicating the correct speed) At this time the AWD quit working. The indicator light works. The brn/wht wires going to the coils have had an extra ground wire added and I have full battery voltage on the grey wire at the upper connection. I’m very frustrated and need help from you experienced guys that have had this battle. I would not like to spend 300+ dollars on a new speedo so if there is a way of bypassing it please help. My speedo has a 6 pin connector.
I just bought a 2013 scrambler 850 3 days ago paid 6200 dollars. We had a benefit ride yesterday just dirt roads after the ride we were running about 40-50 for 3 miles straight highway to the truck. I reliazed black smoke puffing when I hit the gas. Today I was just creeping through a little swamp of just mud an I noticed white smoke puffing out when I really get on it. Has 111 hours 13xx miles! Need help bad!
I just bought a 2013 scrambler 850 3 days ago paid 6200 dollars. We had a benefit ride yesterday just dirt roads after the ride we were running about 40-50 for 3 miles straight highway to the truck. I reliazed black smoke puffing when I hit the gas. Today I was just creeping through a little swamp of just mud an I noticed white smoke puffing out when I really get on it. Has 111 hours 13xx miles! Need help bad!
2nd post, please go easy on me. I searched a bit and didn’t find an answer. I recently picked up a 88 Trail Boss 250 4×4 running a VM30SS carb. It leaks fuel from the overflow. I rebuilt the carb replacing the needle & seat twice and it still leaks. I checked the floats by filling the bowl with carb cleaner and they do float, how well to each other I can’t really tell. I adjusted the float rod to no avail, even over bending the needle tab so that the rod goes father away from the carb body, she still leaks. I pulled a vacuum with my mighty vac and it holds fine so the needle appears to be doing its job. Now the individual floats don’t appear to be available anymore. Are the universals any good? At this point I’m thinking that a replacement carb might be a better approach. Any thoughts???
Trying to get inlaws wheeler going. Started out with replacing the starter which burned out. I remember the machine backfiring quite often as it was started previously. After replacing the starter, I started the machine, it backfired and engine ran backwards. I had the CDI checked out and even tried a new one. Have read all previous forums on the subject and No, the key is not sheared off. I have moved the Stator Plate in both directions and can get it started, but still runs backwards. I am at my wits end.
Trying to get inlaws wheeler going. Started out with replacing the starter which burned out. I remember the machine backfiring quite often as it was started previously. After replacing the starter, I started the machine, it backfired and engine ran backwards. I had the CDI checked out and even tried a new one. Have read all previous forums on the subject and No, the key is not sheared off. I have moved the Stator Plate in both directions and can get it started, but still runs backwards. I am at my wits end.
I have an O12 850 xp and the silent chain is broke and sprocket is stripped.
So, I do mostly trail riding and right now it has stock tires. I am going to get probably some 27-28 outlaw radials, not going to deep in mud. I will use it to pull a 1500lb trailer and a 2500lb sawmill around, not very often though. The fastest I will ever want to go is 65mph at the most but will try to get there as fast as possible. So should I get a gear reduction for it?
I’ve been working on a 425 magnum. It was running rich flooding out so like many other times on other polaris 4 wheelers i replaced the needle and seat in the carb. Fired it up after a full service and working on the carb. bike runs perfect idling and running until you open it wide open. then it runs lean. Stick a finger over the inlet for the air cleaner and it runs good again. I’ve took off the carb many times trying to find a leak but can’t find out how its running lean. Before replacing the needle it would starting flooding out but run like a scalded ape when you opened it up .
