Ok, so here goes: I have never owned a 4 wheeler until now. I have always owned boats and did my own work on them. But these are a whole new animal. First, the backstory. I bought this 2003(not sure) Polaris Predator 500 for $200. The guy said it ran just a couple months before but said it needed a new wiring harness and he got tired of it. So I bought it. I replaced the wiring harness with a used one. Please don’t just say to junk it or that I am a D.A. for buying it because I know that I am! But money is tight and it was all I could afford at the time. Here are my issues:
1.) The carb wasn’t connected. I got it all connected. There were 2 bad vacuum lines(assuming that), so I bought new lines. But I do not know where the other ends of these lines connect to!(laugh now). Pics attached.
2.) The Choke cable is baffling me. It appears that they changed out the carb because I see no spot for the choke cable to mount to! Pics attached.
3.) Ignition was gone. Got one with the wiring harness but once again I do not see where in the world these wires attach to!
4.) There is a wire hanging from the CDI box and don’t know where to connect it.
Thanks in advance for any assistance that you can lend!
I have 2002 Sportsman 400 with no spark. Well actually. Every once in a while I will get one single spark. But very-very inconsistent.
I replaced the spark plug, new stator, new pulsar and wiring. Now I am moving on to replacing the ignition coil. If that doesn’t do it, I will move onto the CDI.
Any suggestions before I go and spend more money on these items?
Alrighty, so I have a 2004 sportsman 500 HO that has terrible vibrations at speeds of anything over 20mph. I have discovered that the majority of the vibrations are coming from the initial prop shaft connection at the rear differential.
I have removed the prop shaft and the splines are literally worn away to points, which gives the shaft a bunch of play. I took the atv out for a rip with prop shaft removed and the vibrations were virtually gone.
My question is regarding the removal/replacement of that drive shaft protruding from the rear gear case that drives the prop shaft. Is it difficult to remove? Can it be done without tearing the whole rear differential out? Stamped on the aluminum casing it says "remove internal lock before adjusting", what’s that?
Alrighty, so I have a 2004 sportsman 500 HO that has terrible vibrations at speeds of anything over 20mph. I have discovered that the majority of the vibrations are coming from the initial prop shaft connection at the rear differential.
I have removed the prop shaft and the splines are literally worn away to points, which gives the shaft a bunch of play. I took the atv out for a rip with prop shaft removed and the vibrations were virtually gone.
My question is regarding the removal/replacement of that drive shaft protruding from the rear gear case that drives the prop shaft. Is it difficult to remove? Can it be done without tearing the whole rear differential out? Stamped on the aluminum casing it says "remove internal lock before adjusting", what’s that?
Attached is a YouTube video of the noise I am getting from my 14 Sportsman 400. In the video I am just pushing down on the front right hand side. Anyone have an idea of how to fix?
Attached is a YouTube video of the noise I am getting from my 14 Sportsman 400. In the video I am just pushing down on the front right hand side. Anyone have an idea of how to fix?
Today I replaced my left side rear axle with an OE style complete axle assembly from ATV Parts Connection.
Everything went fine until I tried to slide the hub onto the axle splines and inside the bearing. It did not want to slide in. I thought I might have put too much grease on the splines (and also on the sleeve of the hub that goes inside the bearing), so I tried to tap it in with a rubber mallet. It did go in about an inch, then I thought it does not feel right.
So I tried to pull the hub back off, and it came off quite easily – with the bearing’s inner race stuck onto the sleeve!
The inside part of the bearing looks OK, all the balls are held in place by grease, so I pushed/tapped the hub all the way back in, then tightened the hubnut and installed the wheel.
When I tried to spin the wheel it felt a bit grinding, but the sound went away. When I try to push the ATV in neutral back and forth, there is no sound coming from the bearing area.
I am thinking that it would be probably a good idea to replace that bearing, anyway – I just want to hear some opinions on what could have caused this?
Why did not the hub slide on like it was supposed to? Could too much grease on the splines of the axle cause this?
(I don’t even want to think that the sizing of the splines of this OE axle is off a little bit…)
Could the "tapping the hub on" have damaged the bearing so that it got separated? (I was not using really too much force).
First off, let me say that I’m a newbie when it comes to ATV repair. I’ve got experience working on stuff, just not these quads
So, I’m carousing craigslist and found a ’06 sportsman 450 for sale. The price sounds good to me. The owner says it needs a radiator fan. Says it’s broken. Says the dash display flashes hot all the time. Said it was just at the dealer for a re-flash which, they completed and found the fan was bad.
I did a little searching. I see a few possible issues.
1. Bad CDI/ECM or whatever you want to call it
2. Bad thermoswitch in the engine fooling the CDI into thinking the engine is hot
3. Bad thermoswitch in radiator not telling the fan to work
4. Bad fan
5. Bad circuit breaker in the fan wiring.
Any other possibilities?
I find it hard to believe a bad fan would make the display flash hot all the time.
I could see the thermoswitch in the engine causing the code. I’m not too familiar with the switch but I’d think a simple test of making/breaking the wires to this switch could be a quick test
I’m open for opinions on how to diagnose the issue.
The owner says he can’t read the mileage ir hrs due to the HOT code flashing on the display. Can we override this quickly to see the mileage?
Ok so bare with me, I am a newbie. I bought a 2003 magnum 330 4×4 that wasn’t idling. So when I started opening her up I noticed a lot of hoses that weren’t connected. So I cleaned the carb connected the hoses and got her going. Now she’s backfiring when I go to shut her down? Then I noticed that the vacuum hose from the carb to the fuel pump is disconnected and capped! Any idea why?
Hey guys I have a 15 850 sp and it’s stuck in 4×4. I just put 4 new highlifter axles in it. Everything is stock except snorkels and 30 inch ag tires. In L and H it’s stuck In diff lock even with the switch in 2 wheel drive. In reverse 4×4 doest work at all even with switch in 4×4. I unplugged switch and still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
