Somebody please tell me i didnt mess up buying my 14 sportsman xp850.

Been scoping out some option and there are a few that I think sound cool, but there’s so many differing opinions that it’s hard to make the call.

The majority of my riding has been trails, with the occasional slop hole. Not big on hills, but I like to be able to zip up some intermediate stuff when the mood or trail dictates. I feel like the stock tires are just lacking when it comes time to dig a little deeper or follow behind some buds with some meat on their tires.

I’ve been checking into Swamp Lites and Mayhems or Mega Mayhems. I’m not looking for the be all end all mud tire, just something that can eat a little and still handle pretty well and not shake me to death.

Also, how much should I look at upsizing? Want to be able to spin them but some extra ground clearance would be awesome.

Hello….my 570 EPS is 2 weeks old with less than 5 hours on it.Listening to it idle the other night I noticed a lower engine knock,sounds like a metal clanking sound.What could this be?.some slop in the valves,bushings??.Is this how they sound with that break-in oil-will this go away when I do my first service with some good 5-50W?This is my first bike and I really do not know what normal is……thanks,-Tom:dunno:

Hello….my 570 EPS is 2 weeks old with less than 5 hours on it.Listening to it idle the other night I noticed a lower engine knock,sounds like a metal clanking sound.What could this be?.some slop in the valves,bushings??.Is this how they sound with that break-in oil-will this go away when I do my first service with some good 5-50W?This is my first bike and I really do not know what normal is……thanks,-Tom:dunno:

’11 700 Grizz here and I’m in the middle of disassembling one of my front knuckles to do a boot replace and I’ve most def reached a stopping point. So far I’ve got the caliper off as well as the 2 castle nuts for the knuckle and the 1 for the steering arm, but for the life of me I can’t separate any of those joints the castle nuts were securing. I’ve beat on all of them using a big rubber mallet with no luck at all. Is there something else holding these joints together I haven’t found maybe?

My next ideas are to try to detach the shock from the lower control arm so maybe that’ll give way a little easier, as well as letting some PB blaster soak into the joints before pounding on them again. Thought I should ask on her first before using the PB though.

Last time I had to separate a joint like these was on my ’96 Cherokee replacing one of my steering linkages. Had to get a special 2 prong fork tool to insert into the joint and pound away before it came apart. For some reason I don’t think that’ll be the answer for this one though.

I’m all ears.

PS My apologies for posting this in a non-yamaha forum but I figure this is a common issue across the atv spectrum

Ok so I have a 04 rancher 350 es when I change the bearings they last about a week and go out. I told the guy at the Honda shop today when I bought the new bearings how long they last. He told that there is suspose to be a spacer that goes on the axle. My rancher never did have one the whole time I’ve owned it (about 6 years) he said that’s why my bearings keep going out. So I payed 15$ for the little spacer and went home installed the bearings rode about 15 miles and the bearing went out. My question is where does the spacer go on the axle? I put the spacer on axle, then the hub, then the tube and the castle nut which I tourqed to 101. What did I do wrong for the bearing to last less then one day?

Ok so I have a 04 rancher 350 es when I change the bearings they last about a week and go out. I told the guy at the Honda shop today when I bought the new bearings how long they last. He told that there is suspose to be a spacer that goes on the axle. My rancher never did have one the whole time I’ve owned it (about 6 years) he said that’s why my bearings keep going out. So I payed 15$ for the little spacer and went home installed the bearings rode about 15 miles and the bearing went out. My question is where does the spacer go on the axle? I put the spacer on axle, then the hub, then the tube and the castle nut which I tourqed to 101. What did I do wrong for the bearing to last less then one day?

any problems with heat if i let it sit on the motor? zip tying with only two hands is easier said than done the way the bracket broke off

Hello everyone
I just tried out an new 2015 Ranger XP, it seems like an nice machine, design and room but the new style roll cage seems cheap and it Rattled or squeaked every bump I went over. Is this something NEW or something that is uncommon?
Thanks again,
Brain

I know this is an ATV forum but with all the people jumping ship to side x sides lately I figured I’d give a 1k mile review of my Ranger 900.

This thing is used for 75% work and 25% fun And its a work hard play harder kind of relationship with this thing so I’m by no means "easy" on it.

What has failed:

1)Front driver side CV joint, replaced with complete Highlifter Axle assembly @500 miles

2)Front driver side u joint, replaced with All Balls bearing @500 miles

3)Rack and Pinion steering gearbox started stripping out at @ 900 miles which gives me a ratcheting sound while turning. We have not replaced yet but will be ordering a new "severe duty" box from RackZilla with a lifetime warranty in the near future.

Bushings, ball joints, brakes, etc. have held up well so far, all are still in good condition.

I had some issues with clutch being noisy when I first got it. Working with Polaris wasn’t happening so I worked with Ryan @ RVS Performance to get the clutching figured out and after some trial and error we solved that issue.

Driving Impressions:
The ride is amazing, its very quiet even with the full cab on, and the torque/gearing of the 900 is great (also probably why I broke the cv joint)

Pre lift kit the Top speed is 62mph w/o the full cab on. With the full cab and lift kit its about 56ish

One of my favorite things to do is go out and move snow in my t shirt while it is subzero outside. Or "run and gun" during ice fishing season with my Marcum and clam portable icehouse in tow.

If I could pick ONE thing to change:

I REALLY wish I could manually lock in the AWD. If I could do this and have a front differential with beefier internal components would be awesome. But the current AWD system works ok and so far my front diff hasn’t exploded. When and If the front diff does fail (somewhat common on these rangers apparently) the guts can be replaced with Brutus components to give it a true 1:1 ratio for instant lockup.

Overall I’m happy with my Ranger, and admittedly I am really curious to hear some real world feedback on the new Honda Pioneer 1k—once people start racking up some miles/hours on those things it will be interesting to see how they hold together.