Hi guys! I’ve been trying to fire up my 1999 magnum for the past month or so. Unfortunately, I haven’t used the bike much in the past 2-3 years.
Here are the steps I’ve taken so far:
-battery was dead, so I bought a new one
-got new gas for the ride
-made sure the cup was on, the bike on neutral etc…
-changed the spark plug
-Still had no spark, so I changed the ignition coil
I now have a spark only when using my recoil, not my electric starter.
I saw on the forum that the problem could be the trigger (pulse) coil. I checked the resistance (red-white, white) and got 101 ohms. The book says it has to be 97.
I bought the new part but am reluctant to swap it.
I have no spark with the electric starter, but I still can’t start the bike with my recoil. Everytime I give it a good tug, it jams and makes me go bazongas!
So being the chicken that I am, I need convincing to go ahead with the next steps !!!
Hey guys yesterday I bought a 2015 Polaris Sportsman made in USA 3/9/15 and the machine has a little over 2 hours on it. I was riding it around yesterday kicking around in my yard and today I notice some clunking when I go at a very slow speed or when I give it gas from a dead stop. Is this normal? It does not bother me I just wanted to double check and make sure everything is alright can it possibly be because of break in? I am replacing the oil and filter at 10 hours. I was going pretty fast yesterday on it.
Hi guys & gals. I started an Indiegogo campaign to fund my trip through Ontario. Not asking you to donate, but hey, if you want to, nobodys stopping you. lol
There is lots more info on the Campaign Page
Try and keep the negative comments to yourself and thank you if you end up donating !
So on my scrambler 500 I need a new
Right brake caliper, but for now I’m wanting
To just cap off the front two brakes so I can
At least have rear brakes (my foot brake doesn’t
Work ether). So any ideas on what to use to cap
The ends or how I’m suppose to. Thanks
Hi All,
I collected a Polaris 400 last night, and to say it needs work is an under statement, no brakes, leaking diesel, no lights, gearbox broke into 3 nees the casing welded , and dont know if that can be done, just looks very rough, but she runs, how can I tell the year I am told its 1994 and where do I start do I just take off all the covers and clean it down, and start with the gearbox then onto cables and brakes, I live in Ireland so nearest dealer would be the United Kingdom Thanks if you can offer advice.:sigh1:
Here’s the deal… I’m a first time atv buyer and have been studying hard all aspects of buying and evaluating these things for a used purchase. Now after months of looking everywhere I finally found a local private seller through word of mouth that may be offering a hell of a deal. Story is…
Guy’s got a 2012 Yamaha Griz 550 w/ EPS with 2900 miles and 250 hours on it and hes asking $4900. Says he got it from NPA? in Cincinnati for $4400 and paid $125 to ship it. After new tires, brakes and oil he says he’s got $5000 into it coming from a dealer-only wholesale auction. I’ve only got $4500 to spend and really stressed that and he says he’ll sell it to me if the guy coming on Friday doesn’t pay the full $4900 price he’s asking.
So yeah fairly excited about the prospects here. This one blue books for something like $5500-$5800 retail.
But I’m still a little too wet behind the ears still to be confident about evaluating these things used so I’m cramming as much info as I can before I go take a look at it. So don’t want to get burned.
So couple questions…
1- I’ve seen some with more and less miles than the 2900 this one has. But have been taught it’s not so much the mileage as how they were put on. Anyone have insight about this specific model with almost 3000 miles and 250 hours on it?
2- Are there any special problems the 2012 550 EPS Griz has that I should be looking out for?
Here’s the deal… I’m a first time atv buyer and have been studying hard all aspects of buying and evaluating these things for a used purchase. Now after months of looking everywhere I finally found a local private seller through word of mouth that may be offering a hell of a deal. Story is…
Guy’s got a 2012 Yamaha Griz 550 w/ EPS with 2900 miles and 250 hours on it and hes asking $4900. Says he got it from NPA? in Cincinnati for $4400 and paid $125 to ship it. After new tires, brakes and oil he says he’s got $5000 into it coming from a dealer-only wholesale auction. I’ve only got $4500 to spend and really stressed that and he says he’ll sell it to me if the guy coming on Friday doesn’t pay the full $4900 price he’s asking.
So yeah fairly excited about the prospects here. This one blue books for something like $5500-$5800 retail.
But I’m still a little too wet behind the ears still to be confident about evaluating these things used so I’m cramming as much info as I can before I go take a look at it. So don’t want to get burned.
So couple questions…
1- I’ve seen some with more and less miles than the 2900 this one has. But have been taught it’s not so much the mileage as how they were put on. Anyone have insight about this specific model with almost 3000 miles and 250 hours on it?
2- Are there any special problems the 2012 550 EPS Griz has that I should be looking out for?
Very new to the online posting scene so apologies in advance if I am out of line here.
I have read a ton of stuff on this subject and special thanks to AKStew for all his headaches and postings!
My problem was similar in my 07 800 Sportsman. I checked the TBAP harness / sensor, ECM, spark plugs and boots (found water at the coil end of one), spark plug change and eventually checked fuel pressure and found it low and not holding residual.
I ordered the Carter pump (which doesn’t fit my application very well and required a bunch of mods to the plastic assembly to work). I re-assembled thinking the issues should be fixed – right?
I could hear the pump cycle however it was followed by a slight "whoosh" at pump turn off. I checked the pressure again and found it to be exactly the same issue. Low pressure and no residual hold. Assembly removed again and this time I could see an obvious problem with part of the plastic assembly (not like the simple style AKStew has depicted. Mine is like the pic I have attached).
In any case, the black portion in about the middle of the assembly has a two piece – glued parting line from factory component. Mine had "now" an obvious split and inside I could now see filter media. Seriously….another filter between the pump and the regulator. I have chased this issue for the last couple of months and I believe the new pump caused this weakened seam to finally reveal itself.
More modding and deleted this filter with a bypass of EFI compatible hose and some clamps. Re-assembly of the tank and test pressure.
WHOLLLY COW!!
FUEL PRESSURE and RESIDUAL TO BOOT!!! No bleed off and it holds!!
Start the machine and purring like a kitten just after nursing!
Now….the reason I am posting this info is that I was chasing the TBAP sensor with wild abandon. I had the "code 41" as a logged problem on the self diagnosis. In hind sight, this code was probably thrown during a backfire. The sensor was correct in not liking what is was seeing however after clearing the code, I could not duplicate the code with running it in my shop. I had the luxury of having a buddy with an identical machine and with his running well, we could change components back and forth to confirm fault (or not). The TBAP wiring and sensor in this case was fine.
The back fire (through the intake) was due to a lean condition and with the removal of this internal (failed) filter, I am back baby!!
Very new to the online posting scene so apologies in advance if I am out of line here.
I have read a ton of stuff on this subject and special thanks to AKStew for all his headaches and postings!
My problem was similar in my 07 800 Sportsman. I checked the TBAP harness / sensor, ECM, spark plugs and boots (found water at the coil end of one), spark plug change and eventually checked fuel pressure and found it low and not holding residual.
I ordered the Carter pump (which doesn’t fit my application very well and required a bunch of mods to the plastic assembly to work). I re-assembled thinking the issues should be fixed – right?
I could hear the pump cycle however it was followed by a slight "whoosh" at pump turn off. I checked the pressure again and found it to be exactly the same issue. Low pressure and no residual hold. Assembly removed again and this time I could see an obvious problem with part of the plastic assembly (not like the simple style AKStew has depicted. Mine is like the pic I have attached).
In any case, the black portion in about the middle of the assembly has a two piece – glued parting line from factory component. Mine had "now" an obvious split and inside I could now see filter media. Seriously….another filter between the pump and the regulator. I have chased this issue for the last couple of months and I believe the new pump caused this weakened seam to finally reveal itself.
More modding and deleted this filter with a bypass of EFI compatible hose and some clamps. Re-assembly of the tank and test pressure.
WHOLLLY COW!!
FUEL PRESSURE and RESIDUAL TO BOOT!!! No bleed off and it holds!!
Start the machine and purring like a kitten just after nursing!
Now….the reason I am posting this info is that I was chasing the TBAP sensor with wild abandon. I had the "code 41" as a logged problem on the self diagnosis. In hind sight, this code was probably thrown during a backfire. The sensor was correct in not liking what is was seeing however after clearing the code, I could not duplicate the code with running it in my shop. I had the luxury of having a buddy with an identical machine and with his running well, we could change components back and forth to confirm fault (or not). The TBAP wiring and sensor in this case was fine.
The back fire (through the intake) was due to a lean condition and with the removal of this internal (failed) filter, I am back baby!!
I bought an Endurance II gauge for my quad… I liked everything about it except the mount they provided. They supply two handlebar clamps (different diameters), but they pretty much have to be on a horizontal section of the bar, and you have to hope that the resulting position of the gauge doesn’t interfere with cabling, controls etc.
I fiddled around quite a bit but there really didn’t seem like a good position for it, so I made my own.
I took a few measurements on the quad and the gauge, spent a few minutes on my computer and came up with this:
It attaches to the top of the dash-panel with automotive double-stick tape:
I’ve tweaked the design a bit since those photos… the saddle angle is a closer fit to the dash-panel.
The mounting position is great… very visible and somewhat protected in the event of a roll-over. Time well tell if the mounting tape holds up. If it looks to be an issue, I can always use a couple bolts and lock-nuts to hold it in place.
