Snows melting off and it stopped raining for a while so I just had to get the Outlander out and take it for a rip down to the local gas station to fill the tank and my Rotopax. Not much of a trip but it felt good to ride it after the last few months of snow and cold.

Anyone ride 2 up with tracks? Wife is interested in playing in the snow and asked about getting tracks for the Max XT 1000. I’m wondering how the tracks do in different snow conditions with 500 pounds of passenger weight?

Anyone ride 2 up with tracks? Wife is interested in playing in the snow and asked about getting tracks for the Max XT 1000. I’m wondering how the tracks do in different snow conditions with 500 pounds of passenger weight?

Wondering if anyone can point me to any online info on the can am clutches? Is there a clutch 101 out there? I’m looking to get a better understanding on how the weights, springs and clutches work together and what one can expect when this or that gets changed.

Thanks.

It’s amazing what a little internet looking will do. The back story is for my first fluid change I used some expensive fluids, cost was over $100 to change oil, diff, gearbox and final drive. It’s about time to do it again so I decided I would do some research and see what others are using, while doing this I decided I needed to understand what 75W-140 meant in the first place.

Who knew the W stands for winter not weight, all I have ever heard was 75 weight 140. Who knew the 75 is the viscosity rating at 32 degrees and the 140 is the viscosity at 210 degrees. Didn’t know that gear oil and motor oil might both say ?W-? but there done on different viscosity ratings so they can’t be compared just by numbers. Heck 75W gear oil is comparable to 10W-30 motor oil in viscosity.

Of course the numbers 75 and 140 still mean little to me, I looked over the viscosity rating chart but since I don’t understand the test info there’s little value there. My one take away is the smaller the number the more viscous the fluid is at the test temp so 10W is runnier the 20W at 32 degrees and SAE 90 is runner the SAE 140 at 210 degrees.

Guess I can say I learned something new today.

I really hate the engine brake on my 2015 Outlander 1000 Max so I decided to take off the oneway bearing and remove the springs just to see what it does for myself as there are conflicting reports about the performance. Like a good boy I figured I might as well service the oneway since I had it off. From posts, videos and my shop manual I expected to pop the bearings out and find the inside open and the bearings visible. Imagine my surprise to find the bearings sealed on both sides, the side of the bearing which is supposed to be open has the same plastic cover type deal the outside of the bearing has. Whats up with that?

Not a Can Am but I figured you guys were the best to ask. I purchased a Yamaha Badger 80 and when I went to start it a heard a pop then saw smoke rolling out of the electrical connection on the starter. Below are a couple picks of the starter. My question is, is something like this a starter issue or can something else cause the starter to smoke? I don’t want to put another starter in just to let the smoke out of it to.
Starter was so hot I had to let it cool 1/2 hour before I could handle it to take it apart, looks like there is a lot of grease and grime in the starter as well.

Installed a 2" billet aluminum spacers I got off ebay today, Can Am Bombardier Outlander 2" Lift Kit 650 800 Fits All Can Am ATV's LK 00 | eBay.During the install I I set the shock preload at the half way mark, I have been riding it with the preload set as high as it would go, well once I was done with the install I could tell that the suspension was way soft. Rode it around some and kept adjusting the preload until I maxed it out once again but when braking the front still dives more then it did before the spacers. I thought the theory behind the spacers was to stiffen the ride, from what I have read about other installs it seems like they run with the preload at its lowest setting once spacer are used.

In case any one cares, I rented a spring compressor from the auto parts store which worked but was a real pain in the rear. The tool is too big for the ATV springs and would drag on the shock body so bad that once the spring was compressed enough to remove the cap I had to release the spring tension to free up the shock and slide it out of the spring then put the shock back inside the spring and retention it. Scrapped a few patches of paint off my shocks during the process.

For $20 the spacers seem to be a good deal, saved me from having to cut pipe or fittings to make them. The spacers did raise my rear height 2 inches and the front about 11/2 inch. ATV is noticabley higher when I get on it and my small 26" tires still have plenty of room.

I was hopping the spacers would stiffen the suspension and keep the ATV from squatting so bad when riding 2 up, I’m not a small guy about 320 lbs so when I add another rider I’m pushing 500 pounds of rider weight.

With all the posts about hot legs I thought I would post my findings after I installed a fan bypass switch. Today my phone claims the outside temp is 75 degrees and I ran my Outlander about 10 miles in traffic, stop lights as well as a few stop signs. Starting out I got about 3 city blocks before my water temp read 195 degrees and I flipped on my fan, within 2 city blocks my temp was down to 175 degrees. I left the fan on the rest of the time and my temp floated from 170 to 180 degrees depending on my speed which was mostly around 20 mph or setting at a stop light. I found that between the lower temp and air circulation that the plastics don’t get near as hot or maintain there heat. My fan kicks on at 200 degrees and off at 197 by itself so there isn’t a whole lot of air movement or cooling effect in general.

Here is a good video that shows how to do the mod.

wire colors on my 2015 Outlander Max XT 1000 are brown with a white stripe for the top right wire looking at front of fuse block and brown with red stripe wire for the botton left looking at them from front of machine and fuse block. The brown with red stripe wire is actually a jumper wire that comes out of the middle of the fuse block and heads back into the fan relay fuse. I wanted to try this mod before I got to carried away so I just used a couple quick crimps to splice a couple wires into the above listed wires then ran them to a switch located in the plastic piece below the handlebars.

Fan switch is switch on the left side of the voltmeter.

While I would love to have an XMR gauge set there is no way I’m spending $400 on the gauges and pod just to get a temp gauge bar graph. I checked out a couple posts about temp gauge installs but I didn’t like the looks of a 2" round gauge mounted in a pod bolted to the ATV so I started searching around for options and this is what I found.

The Trail Tech TTO gauge and thread adapter cost me $63 shipped to the door.

Here is the gauge, sticky back and adapter screwed onto the temp sensor.

These 2 pics show the plug in the front head. I took them with some of the ATV in them for reference as the couple posts I viewed had pics but didn’t really show just how easy it is to get to this plug. I figured I would have to atleast do the hand cram to get to the plug but was pleasantly surprised once I pulled of the side panel and looked down to see the plug right there in the open.

I got rained out and didn’t get a pic of the sensor installed in the block but it just looks like a red thing with a wire coming out of it in the block.

Here is the mounting location I chose for right now. I just stuck it down with the 3M sticky stuff for now to make sure I like the location, eventually I will probably bolt it down with a couple small bolts.

This little temp gauge is battery powered, can be set for F or C, and can be set to show max temp and current temp. Only issue I see with it so far is the setup button is on the bottom so it would have to be unstuck or unbolted to get to the button, good thing I will probably never have to mess with it until the battery needs replaced.