At Discount Tire, "Overdrive" means, working hard to be the best that you can be and sharing your passions with others. Chris Santacroce, featured here, lives in overdrive.

Do you live in overdrive? Tell us what you are passionate about and how you share it with others below.

At Discount Tire, "Overdrive" means, working hard to be the best that you can be and sharing your passions with others. Chris Santacroce, featured here, lives in overdrive.

Do you live in overdrive? Tell us what you are passionate about and how you share it with others below.

At Discount Tire, "Overdrive" means, working hard to be the best that you can be and sharing your passions with others. Chris Santacroce, featured here, lives in overdrive.

Do you live in overdrive? Tell us what you are passionate about and how you share it with others below.

At Discount Tire, "Overdrive" means, working hard to be the best that you can be and sharing your passions with others. Chris Santacroce, featured here, lives in overdrive.

Do you live in overdrive? Tell us what you are passionate about and how you share it with others below.

so we just bought a project/fixer upper…a 96 xpress 400L. it’s a pretty solid bike but there were a few issues, most of which i’ve completed. i’ve done some research on here about bubbling into the coolant overflow when it’s running, and i’ve seen answers ranging from new radiator cap, to "that’s normal in hot conditions"…i thought head gasket/or needs top end work, but i did a compression test and it was 113psi, and it calls for 115. it’s smoking white off and on, which also tells me coolant into combustion chamber. i guess the liquid cooled 2 strokes are pretty new to me. always had air foolers..but could it just be the head gasket?? seeing as how compression is still almost spec, but i’m getting coolant into the cylinder? still cranks first or second pull every time and will run great until it gets hot. (need new electric fan motor)

thanks in advance

I’m putting snorkels on and raising my radiator up today. Any suggestions on any thing. Help is always welcome and appreciated. And i will let you know how it went .

A while back during my rebuild thread I posted that I would start a new thread on the things I would do differently/what I’ve learned. If I do it again (and I probably will) here are some random thoughts about restorations. I’ll add to it as more things come to mind.

1. Know what you’re getting into. Restoration (done properly) can consume many, many hours (and many dollars). If you’re the kind of person who starts a project with enthusiasm and the lets it peter out when the volume of work becomes apparent, don’t do this.

2. You’ll probably exceed your budget. When people update something in their homes, they run into the "you might as well" phenomenon. "Since we’re replacing the tub we might as well get a new vanity/sink/mirror/new tile" etc. ATV restoration is no different. Save up your money before you start or you’ll spend 8-9 months restoring like I did.

3. I’d probably powder coat or galvanize the frame rather than rattle-can it.

4. When you buy used parts off Ebay or wherever, look for parts from the middle-to-western part of the country. Drier climate means less rust/corrosion.

5. When you need a particular small part (such as new swing-arm bolts), instead of paying $15-20 for the one part, look at the stuff labeled "misc. nuts/bolts" for your particular bike. Your part (plus a half-dozen more parts you need) might be in there for like $30. For example, I saw tool kits in the little black case for Honda 300s going for $30-50 each. I got the tool kit plus several other hard-to-find, useful parts off a miscellaneous ad for $25.

6. Check the frame carefully before you buy, especially the underside where it can contact the ground going over rocks/rough ground. Having to come up with another frame can add a significant chunk to your rebuild. If it hadn’t been for one of my brothers (a master welder), I would have been screwed here.

7. I’d avoid buying a blue 300 to restore unless you plan to go with a different color. The plastics are getting hard to find.

8. Places I can recommend for buying parts: Manny, from this website; Honda East Toledo; Power Sports Nation in Nebraska; G&H Discount in TN; and Boss Bearing.

9. There is no comparison between an impact wrench and a ratchet. The proper tool may cost a few dollars more, but after your knuckles are bleeding and you’ve been cussing one particular bolt for 2 hours that refuses to break free it becomes worth it.

10. Never, under any circumstances, hide your purchases from your wife :ph34r:. Do it once and you’ll understand.

I’ll add more later. Throw in some of your own if you like. Good day, all.

$3,800 obo

2287 miles, 257 hours
Front brush guard, 1 ¼” receiver hitch, Brand new ITP steel delta rims and Kenda bear claw tires, also included is the set of original Polaris rims and tires (Tires have about 25%-30% tread left). All new fluids, runs great and rides really smooth. Newer battery, with the EFI there are no worries about starting when it’s really cold, I used it for ice fishing and it worked great. All the plastic is in good condition, there is a little sun fading on the head light pod, and a little melted spot by the seat from the exhaust pipe that is barely noticeable. The only thing that is known to not work is the battery indicator on the speedo pod (the battery icon flashes) the battery is good so I never worried about it. New rear axle, air filter, exhaust gasket, exhaust seal and springs, hall effect speed sensor, T-bap harness, Gear selector shaft and gear and new spark plugs. I have the service manual and the standard Polaris manual

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What is the pros and cons of cobra axles, i have heard they are great axles. What is the maximum running angle, and do they plunge on both ends like Turner? Also where is the best place to buy?