So, back in 2015 the wife bought me a Brand new 2014 Sportsman XP 850. I fell in love with it the moment I first rode it. We got a great deal since they were trying to clear the dealership for the next years models. We also got a reasonable APR, considering we financed it. Fast forward two years later and I am having serious buyers remorse. Not because of my ATV, I love riding it now just as much as the first time I rode it. I’m having remorse because of the financial institute we went through for our loan, Sheffield Financial. Let me elaborate.

First of all, their website is one of the worst websites I have ever had to navigate. The login page is a pop-up from their home page. The amount of loan information available once you’ve logged in is almost non-existent. The way you setup a payment is horrendous!! You cannot choose a payment date, you can choose how many days before your payment due date that you would like your payment to go through, up to 9 days (confused? So am I!!). You cannot save your banking or debit card information (which leads me to believe that their online security isn’t all that great, and they know it). Honestly, I’m half surprised the site isn’t riddled with pop-ups and ads. It feels like a high school students final assignment for their Into to Web Design class. I didn’t really notice any of this when we first got the loan because I setup the auto pay and really just forgot about it. Until I had to make a change. I just wanted to up my payment by $50!! It took me 30 minutes to figure out how to do that!!

Ok, so getting past the visually displeasing, non-helpful, non-informative nature of the site, I had one simple task left. You see, I am in the military and move every few years. I recently moved overseas and now have an APO address. Their website does not offer an APO option when I try to update my address. Seriously!?! That was the final straw. Call me old fashioned, but I am writing a letter (yes, a snail mail letter that someone has to physically open!!) to their headquarters (if I can find a good address on their website). I really cannot wait to make the last few payments and be done with them!!

The morale of my misadventure: if you ever get offered a loan through Sheffield Financial, DO NOT do business with them. They claim to be the leader in low APR motorsports financing, but the truth is they are a cheap, poorly ran business with no support for military!!

End rant.

my 2003 450 Foreman is having starter problems. it all started when, instead of cranking when i pushed the starter button it would click in the battery compartment, since then I have replaced the solenoid then the battery and 2 starters. Now the starter starts the engine and will not turn off when i release the button. I hooked a volt meter to the hot wire that powers the starter and it shows 12.5 volts once i press the starter button and stays hot even when the key is out and the engine is not running. i have to unhook the battery to stop power to the wire. sometimes if flick the button violently it will turn off. I have burned up 1 brand new starter so far anyone have a suggestion?

Anyone run these on renegade xmr 1000 with stock clutching and axles.was wondering how they perform being that they are a lot heavier than silverbacks.the 30x10x14 are 52lbs each compared to 39lbs for silverbacks.

Post some pictures of done up 570s I need ideas of what to do with mine. Here’s a picture of what I have so far

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I have a 2015 570 with about 1300 miles on it. Went to ride it up the street today and when I pulled out of the garage the check engine light came on and it stalled. Looked up the code and it was an over voltage code. Started it back up and rode it a short distance hoping it would clear itself up but it didn’t. Pulled back in the garage, shut it off and restarted it again in neutral and it was idling at 2300rpms. Disconnected the stator so that it would just run off the battery, and the problem was still there. Disconnected the battery and went to work, got home, reconnected it and now it just turns over but won’t start.

I have a voltage regulator on order but don’t know what could be causing the no start issue. The check engine light is no longer on.

I appreciate any help, I’m kind of stumped and don’t want to have to bring it to the dealer.

I have a 2015 570 with about 1300 miles on it. Went to ride it up the street today and when I pulled out of the garage the check engine light came on and it stalled. Looked up the code and it was an over voltage code. Started it back up and rode it a short distance hoping it would clear itself up but it didn’t. Pulled back in the garage, shut it off and restarted it again in neutral and it was idling at 2300rpms. Disconnected the stator so that it would just run off the battery, and the problem was still there. Disconnected the battery and went to work, got home, reconnected it and now it just turns over but won’t start.

I have a voltage regulator on order but don’t know what could be causing the no start issue. The check engine light is no longer on.

I appreciate any help, I’m kind of stumped and don’t want to have to bring it to the dealer.

So i have a ’13 sportsman 500 and took the hubs off the other day to clean grass from behind them. I noticed my front left hub was sheared off at the part that slides into the bearing. I put it back together and went for a ride anyways while I waited for new bearings and hub to get here since I figured it had prob been like that for several rides anyways. Went today to take both struts off to get new bearings pressed in and noticed the other side did the same thing during the ride I just took!! I ride flat easy trails with moderate mud, 28 inch tires but always ride in low and have a qsc clutch kit. The bearings were about due for replacement but didn’t make any noise or have THAT much play in them. What would cause the hubs to shear like that? I know there were torqued down properly too.

Just bought my first set of tires for my 570. 26×9 and 26×11 bear claw htr and delta steel wheels.

I always mounted my dirt bike and lawn tractor tires with spoons. I always scratched them up too.

I decided to make some homemade tools and give these tires a shot. No need to describe, pictures are easier than explaining.

My first try to mount the tires was a failure. I revised the mount end by putting a bigger angle on the piece of plate that guides the tire into place. After the change, it works great.

I haven’t tested the demount end yet.

I won’t lie and say mounting these tires was easy. I broke one hell of a sweat! I had a hard time wrestling the first bead of each tire onto the rim. I did this by hand, no tools. The fronts weren’t too bad but the rears were tough.

Mounting the second bead on the front tires with my bar was easy as can be!

Mounting the second bead on the rear tires was a bit of a struggle. Reason why is because it was tough to push the tire down into the recess of the rim as i moved along. I think the design of my stand is a problem. The rim is tight to the top of my stand. If I were to mount the rim a couple inches up it would allow me to push the tire down into the recess easier as I work the tool around.

I also hard a hard time getting the front tires to take any air at all. I take the valve cores out and used a blow tip to set beads. Even with a ratchet strap, I struggled getting them to take air.

Setting the rear beads was a snap. No ratchet strap. I just bounced the tire on the floor a couple times and they instantly took air.

I bought a .99 cent cutting board from Walmart, $2 worth of screws from lowes, a $15 bottle of RUGLYDE and a $3 applicator brush from NAPA. The rest of the materials were from the scrap pile at work. There is a local shop that charges around $30/set to mount. I didn’t save much but it was a good experience.

Anyone have some tips for setting beads on narrow tires?

I’d like to find an air chuck that locks on the valve stem and will work without the valve core in place.

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The fuel light on my 2015 Outlander L DPS won’t go out. Doesn’t matter if the tank is full or half….it always shows that I’m empty. I’d like to fix it myself…anybody run into this before or have any ideas??

I need to change my front seal differentiel . The seal is the one coming from the pro shaft drive to the front gear case . Polaris don`t sell the seal separate but only in kit 3234593 .$85.00 Canadien !!! . Anybody have found a jobber seal if yes part number if available . Next question after removing the pro shaft and gear case cover is it easy to replace ? My atv is a Sportman touring 500 Efi touring 2009 (33000Km or 20000 miles) Thanks for any help .