Hey guys. I have a 02 rancher that just started smoking really bad. The sad part is I just did a top end rebuild about 4 months ago. New cylinder, rings, piston, valves, valve guides, gaskets… the only thing is I didn’t check the ring gaps. It all came as a kit so I figured it should be good.
About 15 hours after the rebuild my wife accidentally drove it into the lake. No water in the intake, but it got in through the exhaust. Pulled plug, shot the water out, got home and changed the oil. No water there. Ran great for another 20-30 hours and then just started smoking.
Did a dry compression test and got 0… wet got 130, 30, then 0 on the last one.
Going to pull the top end back off and have the bore checked and maybe a slight overbore.
My question is should I put maybe a hi compression piston in while I have it apart? Any other upgrade I should do?
Hey guys. I have a 02 rancher that just started smoking really bad. The sad part is I just did a top end rebuild about 4 months ago. New cylinder, rings, piston, valves, valve guides, gaskets… the only thing is I didn’t check the ring gaps. It all came as a kit so I figured it should be good.
About 15 hours after the rebuild my wife accidentally drove it into the lake. No water in the intake, but it got in through the exhaust. Pulled plug, shot the water out, got home and changed the oil. No water there. Ran great for another 20-30 hours and then just started smoking.
Did a dry compression test and got 0… wet got 130, 30, then 0 on the last one.
Going to pull the top end back off and have the bore checked and maybe a slight overbore.
My question is should I put maybe a hi compression piston in while I have it apart? Any other upgrade I should do?
Most of you may laugh at me but I’m going to try and install my Warn 2500 winch this weekend. I’m not very mechanical/electrical. I took a quick look at the directions and kind of placed the mounting plate in the slot to get a feel for it. Does anyone have pictures on the 2016 Grizzly? It seems like there are two holes in the mounting plate that do not have a hole tapped into the frame. I know I shouldn’t have to drill any holes so I’m wondering if they gave me the correct plate at the dealership.
Warn’s directions look pretty basic so I’m hoping it’ll be an easy afternoon install.
Hi guys! Hoping to have a good scan of this forum when I get set up on my computer as it is a little harder on my phone because it always defaults back to the top of the list when I come out of a thread lol.
I’m 24 and my occupation is mechanical engineer. I love fixing all types of things including electrical components, I tell people it’s a hobby but to be honest I just don’t like other people working on my stuff and the cost of labour 😛
Now my ride: 2011(2012 road redge) Grizzly 450 EPS 4×4
My problems: loss of drive, engine just revs. Second problem, blue smoke when throttle and burning around 1LTR oil every 4-5hours riding.
My diagnosis: I suspected either snapped belt or damaged clutch. After whipping cover off I quickly realise my belt was intact and in good condition. I then had to do some research on the workings of the drive etc as I have never worked on anything like this, long story short I got all the way to the back (wet clutch) to find everything intact apart from the wet clutch itself. The centre part has sheared away from the clutch itself (part which houses the shoes and pins) cause of this looks to be failure of the sprag/one way bearing as you can see where it has locked up (damaged/imprinted) on the output shaft part. I am now forced into replacing the whole wet clutch part AFAIK as I don’t think re welding it will be sufficient and the damage on the shaft will affect the bearing. Now for some reason I am struggling, really struggling to get parts at a reasonable price here in the U.K. I type it in google eBay co uk and it reverts me to your eBay com.
I have been quoted £400+ for parts only here in UK yet when I check eBay com I see a full kit, clutch/bearing and gasket for like $100 + $55 postage. I have emailed them but no reply :(. So my question is do any of you guys know any UK people or do any of you have a repair shop or even personally prepared to post me some parts?
Moving onto my smoke problem, I’m presuming rings and valve seals – I think that will be a good start but I have kind of put this on the back burner until I get her running again. Unfortunately it looks like a similar scenario where top end kits are readily available in USA but no so available here in U.K.
Sorry to ramble on but hoping somebody can help, I bought her for my birthday and only been on her once 🙁
Hi guys! Hoping to have a good scan of this forum when I get set up on my computer as it is a little harder on my phone because it always defaults back to the top of the list when I come out of a thread lol.
I’m 24 and my occupation is mechanical engineer. I love fixing all types of things including electrical components, I tell people it’s a hobby but to be honest I just don’t like other people working on my stuff and the cost of labour 😛
Now my ride: 2011(2012 road redge) Grizzly 450 EPS 4×4
My problems: loss of drive, engine just revs. Second problem, blue smoke when throttle and burning around 1LTR oil every 4-5hours riding.
My diagnosis: I suspected either snapped belt or damaged clutch. After whipping cover off I quickly realise my belt was intact and in good condition. I then had to do some research on the workings of the drive etc as I have never worked on anything like this, long story short I got all the way to the back (wet clutch) to find everything intact apart from the wet clutch itself. The centre part has sheared away from the clutch itself (part which houses the shoes and pins) cause of this looks to be failure of the sprag/one way bearing as you can see where it has locked up (damaged/imprinted) on the output shaft part. I am now forced into replacing the whole wet clutch part AFAIK as I don’t think re welding it will be sufficient and the damage on the shaft will affect the bearing. Now for some reason I am struggling, really struggling to get parts at a reasonable price here in the U.K. I type it in google eBay co uk and it reverts me to your eBay com.
I have been quoted £400+ for parts only here in UK yet when I check eBay com I see a full kit, clutch/bearing and gasket for like $100 + $55 postage. I have emailed them but no reply :(. So my question is do any of you guys know any UK people or do any of you have a repair shop or even personally prepared to post me some parts?
Moving onto my smoke problem, I’m presuming rings and valve seals – I think that will be a good start but I have kind of put this on the back burner until I get her running again. Unfortunately it looks like a similar scenario where top end kits are readily available in USA but no so available here in U.K.
Sorry to ramble on but hoping somebody can help, I bought her for my birthday and only been on her once 🙁
New member here, getting back into riding after 10+ years, and relatively new to ATV modding so go easy on me! I am going to be picking up a 2017 Grizz EPS in a month or 2 and I am looking for options to replace the steel wheels (looking at a camo or green version). I have Method Race Wheels on my JKU and really like the quality of them. I see they recently added 4×100 sizing on some of their ATV/UTV wheels and they have the same wheels on my Jeep available. They are 14×7 with a 38/5+2 offset. Would those fit? I would most likely get a tire that maintains a similar diameter to the stockers.
New member here, getting back into riding after 10+ years, and relatively new to ATV modding so go easy on me! I am going to be picking up a 2017 Grizz EPS in a month or 2 and I am looking for options to replace the steel wheels (looking at a camo or green version). I have Method Race Wheels on my JKU and really like the quality of them. I see they recently added 4×100 sizing on some of their ATV/UTV wheels and they have the same wheels on my Jeep available. They are 14×7 with a 38/5+2 offset. Would those fit? I would most likely get a tire that maintains a similar diameter to the stockers.
On this 350 I’m working on with the leaky carb, the petcock is hard (really hard) to turn. I have to put a pair of channel locks or vice grips on it to get enough leverage to turn it. It seals fine, but I can’t turn it on or off without a pair of pliers.
Any way to free it up?
It wasn’t easy to turn before I put it on, but I thought gas might make it easier. I think instead of getting easier, the gas swelled the rubber in it and made it harder to turn.
