Who wants to get together for a ride at Turkey Bay in Land Between the Lakes in western KY? Let’s discuss some possible dates!
All posts by dstech
Custom Renegade Radiator Relocate
So lately I’ve been in the mood to get muddy and I’ve been hitting some deeper than normal holes. As one can expect, the radiator kept getting clogged and sending me into limp home mode. Long story short, I got irritated enough to set a weekend aside to build my own relocate. (I was not paying 300-400 for a bumper relocate, and I personally think they’re an eyesore anyways) I’ve never seen one like it so I figured I’d share it with everyone. I’m not a new member but I don’t use the forum much, so please excuse my format with the pictures at the end.
– The box itself is 9 separate pieces.
(2) 17.5x2x1/8 pieces
(2) 14.75x2x1/8 pieces
(2) 14.75x4x1/8 pieces
(1) 17.5x4x1/8 piece
(1) 15×18 sheet of expanded metal
(1) 2.25×8.25 piece of expanded metal
All of this was fit up, tacked, and welded. Being that I am in college for welding engineering, this was the easiest and by far my favorite part. For the hole in front of the box, it is an 8×2" hole directly in the center
-With the box welded up i had my dad help me for an extra set of hands to figure out what angle to use and how/where to mount it. I honestly couldn’t tell anyone what angle it is at, all I know is it is centered and level so I’m happy (you’ll definitely want an extra set of hands or 2 for this)
– The mounting positions may be somewhat unorthodox but they work and they’re solid. I used 1" wide flat stock for all brackets, can’t remember the length or the bends off the top of my head. The fronts were mounted to the aluminum tube where the headlights bolt onto. This was the only solid thing within 6" of where i thought the mounts should go, so this was basically improvising
– The mounts for the rear of the box use the shock bolts. A slight amount of grinding was required (to get the lip off of the shock mount bracket to have a flat mounting surface)
– About half of the stock right side coolant hose was retained, I just added a connector and used the portion of stock hose cut from the other side to get up to the rad. I cut the hose about 6" to the right of the overflow bottle and added a 90* elbow, about 10" of hose straight up and then another elbow, then about 3" of hose to the top of the rad
– With everything mocked up I tore it down for the 15th and final time to paint everything. I decided to go yellow on the expanded metal and it really sets everything else off
– On a side note, one of my main goals for this project was to still be able to get to the fuses and the overflow bottle with everything still hooked up. (you never know what will happen with these things) It’s a tight fit but with some persuasion the main tank piece and the dash piece still come completely off
– The box itself is 9 separate pieces.
(2) 17.5x2x1/8 pieces
(2) 14.75x2x1/8 pieces
(2) 14.75x4x1/8 pieces
(1) 17.5x4x1/8 piece
(1) 15×18 sheet of expanded metal
(1) 2.25×8.25 piece of expanded metal
All of this was fit up, tacked, and welded. Being that I am in college for welding engineering, this was the easiest and by far my favorite part. For the hole in front of the box, it is an 8×2" hole directly in the center
-With the box welded up i had my dad help me for an extra set of hands to figure out what angle to use and how/where to mount it. I honestly couldn’t tell anyone what angle it is at, all I know is it is centered and level so I’m happy (you’ll definitely want an extra set of hands or 2 for this)
– The mounting positions may be somewhat unorthodox but they work and they’re solid. I used 1" wide flat stock for all brackets, can’t remember the length or the bends off the top of my head. The fronts were mounted to the aluminum tube where the headlights bolt onto. This was the only solid thing within 6" of where i thought the mounts should go, so this was basically improvising
– The mounts for the rear of the box use the shock bolts. A slight amount of grinding was required (to get the lip off of the shock mount bracket to have a flat mounting surface)
– About half of the stock right side coolant hose was retained, I just added a connector and used the portion of stock hose cut from the other side to get up to the rad. I cut the hose about 6" to the right of the overflow bottle and added a 90* elbow, about 10" of hose straight up and then another elbow, then about 3" of hose to the top of the rad
– With everything mocked up I tore it down for the 15th and final time to paint everything. I decided to go yellow on the expanded metal and it really sets everything else off
– On a side note, one of my main goals for this project was to still be able to get to the fuses and the overflow bottle with everything still hooked up. (you never know what will happen with these things) It’s a tight fit but with some persuasion the main tank piece and the dash piece still come completely off
All in all it was a good learning experience and I would definitely do it again although everyone knows the first time is the hardest :th_smiliepissed: Not only did I save several hundred dollars (by the way, total cost for this was about $60) I get the satisfaction of telling everyone who asks that I built it myself. Not sure if it’s me or the forum, but it would only let me post 5 pictures. I’d be happy to put some more up or email them if anyone is interested. Cheers!
Honda Fourtrax, won’t stay running
Decided to try and get my 1988 Honda Fourtrax 300 running this weekend with no success. Doesn’t want to turn over when kick starting, but can get it to run for a few seconds when bump starting it. It’ll kick on and bog down and shut off in about 4-5 seconds.
I took the carb and apart and cleaned it twice, it was extremely dirty. It went from not even coming close to starting to getting a few seconds out of it. Fresh gas in it and cleaned the air filter.
Carb is getting plenty of gas and is clean as a 1988 carb can get. Any suggestions on what to try to get it back up and running?
All fuses and pumps are working.
Honda Fourtrax, won’t stay running
Decided to try and get my 1988 Honda Fourtrax 300 running this weekend with no success. Doesn’t want to turn over when kick starting, but can get it to run for a few seconds when bump starting it. It’ll kick on and bog down and shut off in about 4-5 seconds.
I took the carb and apart and cleaned it twice, it was extremely dirty. It went from not even coming close to starting to getting a few seconds out of it. Fresh gas in it and cleaned the air filter.
Carb is getting plenty of gas and is clean as a 1988 carb can get. Any suggestions on what to try to get it back up and running?
All fuses and pumps are working.
Super sensitive steering
I have a 2007 500 Foreman that is extremely easy to steer while driving. Any small rut or rock will pull me in that direction. It’s basically dangerous to drive. I have replaced tires, tierod ends, checked the bushings, A arms look good and the steering shaft, there isn’t any play anywhere. I gave a slight toe out hoping to help the problem. It does not have power steering…. 4000 miles…. Any ideas?
Snorkeling Honda rincon 680
I’ve had my rincon 680 for about 4 years. I won’t to snorkel it but if i ran it with just a programer would it run lean or to rich? I can buy a new exhaust but I don’t won’t to if it’s not needed. So I was just wondering if I can run it with just a programmer or do I need a exhaust to.
2002 Sportsmam 700
Just boughtt new to me 200 hr. atv. Excellent condition , Any tips for maintenaaaaaaance ? thx.
2007 sportsman 500 EFI reving up to bout 2300 rpms on its own
2007 sportsman 500 EFI reving up to bout 2300 rpms on its own.
Sometimes will go back to normal idle.
Sometimes when you first start it , it will rev up high like ya gave it some throttle then go normal.
Yesterday it just revved up to 2000—2300 rpms on its own, I jammed it in gear and parked it.
Any ideas what to look for???
Sometimes will go back to normal idle.
Sometimes when you first start it , it will rev up high like ya gave it some throttle then go normal.
Yesterday it just revved up to 2000—2300 rpms on its own, I jammed it in gear and parked it.
Any ideas what to look for???
Snorkeling rincon 680
I’m looking to snorkeling my 2006 rincon 680. I was wondering if I can run it with just programmers and snorkel or do I need a new pipe to
Front output shaft
Need help guys. 2007 outlander 650xt Busted my front end. I was pulling something I shouldn’t have and broke the front shaft leading to the front drive shaft. I disassembled the front end and have pull the part that that broke. and included pictures. Does this shaft pull from the front or do I need to pull the motor and separate the transmission and pull it from the back?
