Hi All, I was wondering if an HMF Slip on from an 2009 Outlander 500 is compatible with a 2013 Outlander 800. I cant seem to find anywhere saying its not. Thoughts? or Info?
Cheers,
All posts by dstech
HMF Exhaust Compatibility Question
Hi All, I was wondering if an HMF Slip on from an 2009 Outlander 500 is compatible with a 2013 Outlander 800. I cant seem to find anywhere saying its not. Thoughts? or Info?
Cheers,
Red river Tx/Ok ATV
My brothers and I were talking about going to the Red River (Texas/OK border) and taking our Honda Ranchers. Anyone ever done any riding here? Any tips, rules, or laws we need to know. I assume it’s the regular stuff, ohv sticker, helmet….do you need a safety course to ride there?
Traxter Plunger Assembly Malfunction
So my carburetor is leaking in two different spots. Both human error. The first is the drain screw on the bottom of the body float/bowl because I pinched it too hard with vice grips enough times I can’t get it tightened enough to close off the draining.
THE MAIN ISSUE: The second is a leak where the plunger assembly outlet. Based off part diagrams, I’m not sure how this is happening although I did a teardown of the carb and there is a possibility I forgot to attach a piece upon reassembly. I’ve tried to find it online and it seems like a non-existent part. Has anybody run into problems like this before with their plungers? What’s the fix and/or where did you get the parts?
Traxter Plunger Assembly Malfunction
So my carburetor is leaking in two different spots. Both human error. The first is the drain screw on the bottom of the body float/bowl because I pinched it too hard with vice grips enough times I can’t get it tightened enough to close off the draining.
THE MAIN ISSUE: The second is a leak where the plunger assembly outlet. Based off part diagrams, I’m not sure how this is happening although I did a teardown of the carb and there is a possibility I forgot to attach a piece upon reassembly. I’ve tried to find it online and it seems like a non-existent part. Has anybody run into problems like this before with their plungers? What’s the fix and/or where did you get the parts?
Installing a Street Legal Kit on my Outlander
I purchased a street legal kit from LED TSK out of Arizona. Arizona has been street legal for some time and I imagine there is a good market for the equipment needed for street riding. The LEDTSK.com website is very good. It describes the products well, and makes ordering what you need and want easy.
You have to develop your own plan for the install. My Outlander has bumpers front and rear. There is no adequate exposed plastic front or rear to mount the LED turn signals. I removed both bumpers and discovered plastic corner pieces had enough room under them to mount the LEDs. Good news. I routed the "red" right and "green" left turn signal cables inside the bumper pipes. I will have a little "jump" between the bumpers and the plastic body work on my Can Am, but the jump is well protected.
I’m using a "right" and "left" cable (2 of them) instead of cutting into one cable. Wire is cheap and it reduces the chance of error. I will take these two and join them into one cable that I will run under the bodywork of the Outlander to the handlebar area where the toggles and indicator lights will be mounted. It is important to me to label each cable to insure there is no confusion later about which is right "red" and left "green" cables and wires within the cables. The white wire is ground.
The next job was running the turn signal cables under the Outlander. I elected to follow the existing wiring harness where I could. I ran cables from the front and rear bumpers to the "console" area. I used wire loom under the front and rear body pieces.
Now to figure out the console layout to mount the toggle switches and indicator lights and horn button. The Outlander had a "bump out" in the removable center console plastic that had just enough room for the right and left toggle switches and the indicator lights and the horn button. It is tight, especially considering I had two cables, one from the front and one from the rear bumper, and two indicator lights, a ground wire, and a horn push button with two wires.
My golly I tested the turn signals and they worked! I passed the final exam! I am pleased with how bright the turn signal LEDs are.
Now onto the horn. I placed the push button on top of the dash, red button. It’s like a bell ringer in an old hotel. I pulled a wire from the battery positive post to the dash switch, and from the switch to the horn. I located the horn under the right front side, just behind the shock mount and radiator. I used an L bracket bolted to an upper frame cross member. I insured I had a good ground connection through the paint. Here is a photo of the location. The horn is good and loud.
My Outlander came with a license plate bracket above the hitch receiver. So I just used the license plate light and wires supplied in the kit. I did not need the plastic bracket. I found the 12v and ground wires from the tail lights, and spliced into them to power the license plate light. This was straightforward. The light is nice a bright.
Okay, the job is done and my Outlander has the necessary "street legal" equipment similar to a motorcycle. I had already installed Can Am rear view mirrors, which I find handy.
I recommend the EZ LED TSK kit to those that need and want street legal equipment on their ATV. Makes riding down a road safer. Cisco and his company did very well by me. Here is a link to their website: [http://www.EZTSK.com]
David
Installing a Street Legal Kit on my Outlander
I purchased a street legal kit from LED TSK out of Arizona. Arizona has been street legal for some time and I imagine there is a good market for the equipment needed for street riding. The LEDTSK.com website is very good. It describes the products well, and makes ordering what you need and want easy.
You have to develop your own plan for the install. My Outlander has bumpers front and rear. There is no adequate exposed plastic front or rear to mount the LED turn signals. I removed both bumpers and discovered plastic corner pieces had enough room under them to mount the LEDs. Good news. I routed the "red" right and "green" left turn signal cables inside the bumper pipes. I will have a little "jump" between the bumpers and the plastic body work on my Can Am, but the jump is well protected.
I’m using a "right" and "left" cable (2 of them) instead of cutting into one cable. Wire is cheap and it reduces the chance of error. I will take these two and join them into one cable that I will run under the bodywork of the Outlander to the handlebar area where the toggles and indicator lights will be mounted. It is important to me to label each cable to insure there is no confusion later about which is right "red" and left "green" cables and wires within the cables. The white wire is ground.
The next job was running the turn signal cables under the Outlander. I elected to follow the existing wiring harness where I could. I ran cables from the front and rear bumpers to the "console" area. I used wire loom under the front and rear body pieces.
Now to figure out the console layout to mount the toggle switches and indicator lights and horn button. The Outlander had a "bump out" in the removable center console plastic that had just enough room for the right and left toggle switches and the indicator lights and the horn button. It is tight, especially considering I had two cables, one from the front and one from the rear bumper, and two indicator lights, a ground wire, and a horn push button with two wires.
My golly I tested the turn signals and they worked! I passed the final exam! I am pleased with how bright the turn signal LEDs are.
Now onto the horn. I placed the push button on top of the dash, red button. It’s like a bell ringer in an old hotel. I pulled a wire from the battery positive post to the dash switch, and from the switch to the horn. I located the horn under the right front side, just behind the shock mount and radiator. I used an L bracket bolted to an upper frame cross member. I insured I had a good ground connection through the paint. Here is a photo of the location. The horn is good and loud.
My Outlander came with a license plate bracket above the hitch receiver. So I just used the license plate light and wires supplied in the kit. I did not need the plastic bracket. I found the 12v and ground wires from the tail lights, and spliced into them to power the license plate light. This was straightforward. The light is nice a bright.
Okay, the job is done and my Outlander has the necessary "street legal" equipment similar to a motorcycle. I had already installed Can Am rear view mirrors, which I find handy.
I recommend the EZ LED TSK kit to those that need and want street legal equipment on their ATV. Makes riding down a road safer. Cisco and his company did very well by me. Here is a link to their website: [http://www.EZTSK.com]
David
2016 850xmr or 2014 1000xmr
So I’m stuck between 2 models. I can get them both at the same price. They both have the same mileage. Around 400-500kms
The 1000 will be the longer wheel base. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing.
Any thoughts or input on which would be a better buy?
The 1000 will be the longer wheel base. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing.
Any thoughts or input on which would be a better buy?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2016 850xmr or 2014 1000xmr
So I’m stuck between 2 models. I can get them both at the same price. They both have the same mileage. Around 400-500kms
The 1000 will be the longer wheel base. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing.
Any thoughts or input on which would be a better buy?
The 1000 will be the longer wheel base. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing.
Any thoughts or input on which would be a better buy?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Polaris 2003 Sportsman 4×4 Floorboard
Parts needed: Right Floorboard for Polaris 2003 Sportsman.:cowboy:
