I saw the new tough rack for the front and rear, but unfortunately my front lid broke a long time ago and broke so easily that I probably won’t buy a new one. So I need to mount a new rack up there, has anyone seen or done this? I realize I will have to make this.

I saw the new tough rack for the front and rear, but unfortunately my front lid broke a long time ago and broke so easily that I probably won’t buy a new one. So I need to mount a new rack up there, has anyone seen or done this? I realize I will have to make this.

Between a new baby and house over the last year, my poor 07 700 has sat in the shop for about 6 months. When I parked the machine it ran totally fine and now it makes a loud metal tapping noise that gets quicker as RPM’s increase and match RPM’s when they decrease. I have tried letting it run for 10 minutes both idling and reving the piss out of it with no change. I have started it 5-6 times over the last couple weeks and two of those times the machine would try to turn over, but it stops as if there is too much pressure for the machine to continue turning over. Release starter button and push it again and it’ll crank and fire like normal.

Battery is new this year and on a tender. It does not make the clicking noise or throw any codes when it fails to crank/turn over.

No smoke out exhaust, except when it’s nearing redline when I mash the throttle which I think is normal for sitting for so long.

Sounds to me like it’s coming from the bottom end so I removed the clutch cover and it’s definitely not clutch noise. Something in the motor.

Could it just be bad gas?
Oil level is fine, but could it degrade and cause the noise?
Guy at work says maybe a stuck valve/lifter from sitting?
Mice chew a wire somewhere?

Just got a new 420 IRS and am curious if anyone has had any issues with them? I’m new to the DCT and fuel injection. My last utility was a the old indestructible 300 4X4. One thing I noticed with this one was when going down a hill with a steep grade letting it hold back in 1st gear, the throttle surged a little up and down with my thumb off of it. Is this normal on the new fuel injections? Anyone else seen this before?

Just got a new 420 IRS and am curious if anyone has had any issues with them? I’m new to the DCT and fuel injection. My last utility was a the old indestructible 300 4X4. One thing I noticed with this one was when going down a hill with a steep grade letting it hold back in 1st gear, the throttle surged a little up and down with my thumb off of it. Is this normal on the new fuel injections? Anyone else seen this before?

First off, this is not my first post. I was posting on a different account and my wireless ISP stopped providing email service so I had to change to a gmail account.

I am working on a 1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 for a friend. The clutch needs work, so I am taking it apart to replace the bushings and the slider weight buttons. This is the first year of the EBS.

Here is the problem:
In the Shop Manual, it shows that once you take the top cover off the drive clutch, there should be a spring and an outer washer and a spacer. Spring was there and in good condition and measures in spec. The outer spacer and washer are not there at all. This clutch has been working OK but was knocking, I presumed, because two of the six buttons are completely missing. Weights are nice and smooth. Outer bushing that is in the cover needs replacing. Buggy has been being used as a hunting buggy for the last several years, no mud or water or sever use. Just slow trail riding to get in and out of the hunting area.

Here are my questions:
What do the outer washer and space do? Do I need to replace them with new ones? Does it take a special tool to install the spacer?

Thanks,

Wayne

Stuff I had bought for my 2011 Sportsman 500 HO that never got used:

Reverse over ride switch with installation instructions from the ATV SS-$10

50 foot synthetic winch cable with sheath & thimble-$20

Spark plug, oil filter, air filter & fuel line filter-$20 for all

Polaris Technical Service Manual (Covers the 500 & 400 models,etc), complete volume. Does have a few greasy fingerprints on it -$25

Prices don’t include shipping, but should be cheap enough to ship thru USPS.

If interested email me at: horsemen.4@hotmail.com

Greetings from Ohio. Former Renegade owner. Current Outlander owner. Thanks for the Add.

I recently had to replace my front right cv axle. The replacement was pretty simple. But the cv axle shaft isn’t staying locked into the diff. When you push it in you can feel the ring snapping into place and it’s tight and little movement. But everytime you drive it, the shaft comes out about 1/2" and you can move it in and out quite a bit but if you push it in you can feel it snap in. I tried using a rubber mallet because I thought maybe it wasn’t seated all the way. Has anyone had this expirence?

I picked up a 2016 Outlander XT-P back in August. I was looking to get an XT-P 850, however the dealership wasn’t able to get one. So I bought the XT-P 1000 that they had sitting on the floor. The power was pretty intimidating on the first ride, I didn’t even get it over 35mph.

I’m planning to keep it stock for now, I’ll probably change my mind on that a few months from now… :th_smilieroflmao2: Currently I have a Black Oak LED bar on the front, 10 inches, double row in a spot/flood combo. It’s bright as hell. Also have a Black Oak LED pod on the rear as a back-up light, I’ve backed up into a stump at night while borrowing my Dad’s quad, don’t want to repeat that with mine.

Attached Images

	IMG_1950.JPG (1.65 MB)
	IMG_1997.JPG (1.82 MB)
	IMG_1999.JPG (1.66 MB)
	IMG_1952.JPG (1.90 MB)