Hey there! New to the ATV world and forum. So lets get this started with a little backstory of my situation.
Recently I bought a 2008 sportsman 500 HO EFI for a good price, knowing it needed some work. I like to tinker so I figured why not. Literally knowing nothing about ATVs I decided to challenge myself and go through with the purchase.
Known issues:
MPH didn’t work.
4WD didn’t work.
RPM didn’t work.
Rear boots torn.
Battery light kept flashing.
Along with a few other minor cosmetic things.
What I have done so far:
Replaced the speed sensor, (unrelated to this issue), but fixed the MPH.
4WD works now, but very clunky, I bought an aluminum roller cage and rollers, (not installed yet, not a priority).
Bought a Caltric stator/pulse coil combo and voltage regulator and installed.
Fixed both rear boots, new axles on order though.
Bought a new belt, the one installed looks freaking perfect though, its a good backup.
So now we go into the problem at hand. Most of the stuff I have done has gone smooth, I just take my time and google the crap out of stuff. So in order of the installs I have done.
CV boots. These were actually the most pain due to trying to band them while on the ATV.
Speed sensor.
Adjusted the thumb throttle due to excess play. It never caused a cutout though.
Stator and pulse coil. Was running perfect except for the flashing battery icon.
Voltage regulator. Seemed to fix the battery icon. Still running.
Now this is where I am confused. It seemed that when I went to change the belt things stopped working. It’s a simple process of removing the old belt and putting the new one on. I have read that sometimes with aftermarket belts, it can bind one or both clutches and stall it. Both clutches move freely with the new and old belt installed.
Troubleshooting I have done, all while screaming :wtf1:
Threw the old belt on, same result.
Plugged in the old voltage regulator, same result.
Threw the old stator and pulse coil back on, same result.
Checked the thumb throttle for cutout, same result.
When I go to start it, it almost sounds like it’s not getting gas. I give it throttle and it will rev up, sometimes sputtering, but it will stay running. To me this can rule out a fuel pump and the associated relays/fuses. When I let off of the throttle, it shuts down immediately. Then when I go to restart it it does 1 of 2 things. 1, it takes a second for it to turn back over and I can repeat the process, or 2, I turn the key and get nothing, no cranking no starting. I hear the audible sounds of the fuel pump turning on to prime the system and the audible clicks when i turn the key fully off.
Could this be as simple as an ignition switch? The last thing I remember messing with was the ignition switch to try and straighten it out, but this was just moving and tightening the plastic nut that holds it to the light pod.
Or do you think I should try to look at something else?
Sorry for the long post but I was to give as much info as possible. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there! New to the ATV world and forum. So lets get this started with a little backstory of my situation.
Recently I bought a 2008 sportsman 500 HO EFI for a good price, knowing it needed some work. I like to tinker so I figured why not. Literally knowing nothing about ATVs I decided to challenge myself and go through with the purchase.
Known issues:
MPH didn’t work.
4WD didn’t work.
RPM didn’t work.
Rear boots torn.
Battery light kept flashing.
Along with a few other minor cosmetic things.
What I have done so far:
Replaced the speed sensor, (unrelated to this issue), but fixed the MPH.
4WD works now, but very clunky, I bought an aluminum roller cage and rollers, (not installed yet, not a priority).
Bought a Caltric stator/pulse coil combo and voltage regulator and installed.
Fixed both rear boots, new axles on order though.
Bought a new belt, the one installed looks freaking perfect though, its a good backup.
So now we go into the problem at hand. Most of the stuff I have done has gone smooth, I just take my time and google the crap out of stuff. So in order of the installs I have done.
CV boots. These were actually the most pain due to trying to band them while on the ATV.
Speed sensor.
Adjusted the thumb throttle due to excess play. It never caused a cutout though.
Stator and pulse coil. Was running perfect except for the flashing battery icon.
Voltage regulator. Seemed to fix the battery icon. Still running.
Now this is where I am confused. It seemed that when I went to change the belt things stopped working. It’s a simple process of removing the old belt and putting the new one on. I have read that sometimes with aftermarket belts, it can bind one or both clutches and stall it. Both clutches move freely with the new and old belt installed.
Troubleshooting I have done, all while screaming :wtf1:
Threw the old belt on, same result.
Plugged in the old voltage regulator, same result.
Threw the old stator and pulse coil back on, same result.
Checked the thumb throttle for cutout, same result.
When I go to start it, it almost sounds like it’s not getting gas. I give it throttle and it will rev up, sometimes sputtering, but it will stay running. To me this can rule out a fuel pump and the associated relays/fuses. When I let off of the throttle, it shuts down immediately. Then when I go to restart it it does 1 of 2 things. 1, it takes a second for it to turn back over and I can repeat the process, or 2, I turn the key and get nothing, no cranking no starting. I hear the audible sounds of the fuel pump turning on to prime the system and the audible clicks when i turn the key fully off.
Could this be as simple as an ignition switch? The last thing I remember messing with was the ignition switch to try and straighten it out, but this was just moving and tightening the plastic nut that holds it to the light pod.
Or do you think I should try to look at something else?
Sorry for the long post but I was to give as much info as possible. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys…
I am a faithful Grizzly owner… I ride my bike hard in the mud and have never had a single issue with it.. Not even a torn axle boot,
So this is sorta crazy to me…
It broke and bad , oil is leaking from where the engine splits down the center….. I do not see a crack but when it came apart it blew the coolant overflow resivour cap off ..lol
Has anyone had this happen and is there any fix for the new motor/trans?
Any recommendations on best place to find a case or solid rebuild?
Riding cross country thru the bush tonight. Wheeler has 300+ miles. First issue is the water got about 2.5′ deep for a while and the clutch slipped like crazy. On the way back we towed it thru with a 1000. Works fine after a bit. But it. Did it both ways. No issue on smaller water that’s not quite as deep. Then the headlights and warmers just quit. Flashed back on and then quit for good. Instruments work. Taillights work. It’s a 6×6 but probably the same as a 4×4 and more people are reading this thread.
Hi I’m new this forum thing. I have a question,will a 1000 helix part#420280472 fit in my 13 800 outty? And if so anyone try it and how does it work. I have tried the 650 helix and didn’t mind it. But I would like to go to a more durable one or is this just a waist of time. Thanks.
I have just acquired a 1998 Grizzly 600. The guy I got it from didn’t know much about the history of the bike, so I don’t know what all is wrong with it. Before I start sinking too much money into it, I want to see if I can get the engine to run. I have got spark on the plug, the starter spins, but it is really slow. I thought I could roll start it, but I don’t know if that is even possible with this type of transmission. When it is Neutral, I can easily push the bike, but when its in LOW, I can’t get it to budge. If I shift it to HIGH, it again rolls really freely (like its in Neutral).
I thought I should be able to hear the engine turning over, but I can’t. Is this "normal" or is this a sign that something is jacked in the transmission?
What I have done so far:
Changed the oil.
Washed out the gas tank and replaced the fuel line.
Disassembled and cleaned out the carb.
Replaced the spark plug.
Removed the starter and cleaned the commutator. Starter motor spins great on the bench.
I am able to pull the start rope and see a spark on the plug.
This is my first Grizzly, so I am sort of new at this. I do have a service manual for this bike.
I have just acquired a 1998 Grizzly 600. The guy I got it from didn’t know much about the history of the bike, so I don’t know what all is wrong with it. Before I start sinking too much money into it, I want to see if I can get the engine to run. I have got spark on the plug, the starter spins, but it is really slow. I thought I could roll start it, but I don’t know if that is even possible with this type of transmission. When it is Neutral, I can easily push the bike, but when its in LOW, I can’t get it to budge. If I shift it to HIGH, it again rolls really freely (like its in Neutral).
I thought I should be able to hear the engine turning over, but I can’t. Is this "normal" or is this a sign that something is jacked in the transmission?
What I have done so far:
Changed the oil.
Washed out the gas tank and replaced the fuel line.
Disassembled and cleaned out the carb.
Replaced the spark plug.
Removed the starter and cleaned the commutator. Starter motor spins great on the bench.
I am able to pull the start rope and see a spark on the plug.
This is my first Grizzly, so I am sort of new at this. I do have a service manual for this bike.
OK, can’t seem to find any info on this. I got my stock secondary on ebay, and got a question from someone with a 2008 Can-Am Outlander/Renegade. They want to know if my 2014 Renegade secondary will fit on their machine. The outer sheave is the same casting number as the G1, but I guess the inner sheave is a different casting number. I also looked on the BRP parts list, and it looks like the spring and helix were different numbers on the G1s.
Just picked up another 570 today, now have a 2015 and 2016. Well anyways, after I got it home and started driving it around it seems to be creeping while in gear. It wants to move when I’m not giving it gas. Also it is hard to shift, I’m guess that’s because it running to fast or something? Any help would be great. I could take it back up to the dealer but if it’s something I can fix easily then I’d rather do that.
Anyone own the provantage? I been eying a kit minus winch, Looking for opinions on if it is any good, or if money would be better spent on another brand. I will be putting it on an 02 rubicon. Looks like i can get the veh specific midmount, plow, and tubes for about 400.
Appreciate any experience with these provantages.
