Looking at the wheels on my 2015 Touring it would appear as though I have 14×6 fronts with a 4" backspace (4+2 config) and 14×7 rear with a 5" backspace (5+2 config) Sound correct?
Eventually I plan to make a tire change. I’ll probably do 26 or 27’s in either a 9 or 10" front and 11-12" rear. I was hoping to stick with an inexpensive OE wheel, but in my experience, most aftermarket tires tend to be a bit wider than OE. My preference has always been to have a 7" wheel in front and 8" rear to more closely match the section width of the tires.
Looking at the clearance it would seem that if I add a wider setup I need to keep the same backspace and shift the additional inch outwards? In other words a 4+3 front and 5+3 rear. Either that or stick with OE wheels and space them out a bit?
My tire of choice would be Vampires, but it looks like they aren’t going to do 14" versions.
Looking at the wheels on my 2015 Touring it would appear as though I have 14×6 fronts with a 4" backspace (4+2 config) and 14×7 rear with a 5" backspace (5+2 config) Sound correct?
Eventually I plan to make a tire change. I’ll probably do 26 or 27’s in either a 9 or 10" front and 11-12" rear. I was hoping to stick with an inexpensive OE wheel, but in my experience, most aftermarket tires tend to be a bit wider than OE. My preference has always been to have a 7" wheel in front and 8" rear to more closely match the section width of the tires.
Looking at the clearance it would seem that if I add a wider setup I need to keep the same backspace and shift the additional inch outwards? In other words a 4+3 front and 5+3 rear. Either that or stick with OE wheels and space them out a bit?
My tire of choice would be Vampires, but it looks like they aren’t going to do 14" versions.
There is so much on this forum about melting plastic on many models and years of quads. I’ve found the correct fix and demonstrate it on my YOUTUBE video. Hope this helps. It has totally solved my melting plastic problem and it is using parts available from any Polaris dealer. They most likely will have to order it in and some places might not even know there is a fix. Parts numbers are indicated in the video. Enjoy!
There is so much on this forum about melting plastic on many models and years of quads. I’ve found the correct fix and demonstrate it on my YOUTUBE video. Hope this helps. It has totally solved my melting plastic problem and it is using parts available from any Polaris dealer. They most likely will have to order it in and some places might not even know there is a fix. Parts numbers are indicated in the video. Enjoy!
Out for a 50 mile ride y’day, much of it very tight, slow, technical with a lot of heavy rock and hills. I was surprised that about 5 or 6 times she stalled while in gear usually during a very slow downhill crawl. No malfunction indicators came up in the display but I gotta think it may have something to do with how hard she was working and how hot she was probably getting. Coolant level was good, still new. Appreciate any similar experience, thoughts.
My sportsman 500 flywheel spins but motor does not. I took spark plug out and can’t feel any pressure. I think my woodruff key is sheared on my crankshaft, what you guys think?
My sportsman 500 flywheel spins but motor does not. I took spark plug out and can’t feel any pressure. I think my woodruff key is sheared on my crankshaft, what you guys think?
a little about myself. own a rancher 05 350 4×4, bought new. it`s used mostly for running trap lines. she`s been a good machine, hauled a lot of fur over the years. start and ride at lest once a week. last week she started hesitating in second then started doing it in first. starts up idles ok. used a little sea foam and it worked for a day. now she`s back at it with fuel running out the drain line for the cab. and yes, it`s closed tight. thinking of just picking up a whole new cab and replacing it. are new cabs set at the factory to just install as is and go or is there something else to do?? don`t trust myself doing a rebuild. thanks furtrapper.
