After 2 yrs of plowing with the wings I made, finally decided to add a stiffener rib to the wings themselves. They’re just 10ga steel so when snow was deep or wet and heavy I’d have 6′ blade full of snow and naturally they would deflect out. Most of the deflection came from it bending the outer rib on snow plow itself, so I added a few kickers where I bolt wings to it.
Tomorrow I’ll make some banjo fittings and tack them to top lip of plow, then I’ll weld a short section of small chain to end of each wing, and then drop the loose end into the banjo fitting. That way if they decide to deflet outward still with a full blade of snow, they’ll only deflect so far before chain tightens up and stops further bending. I had "turkey wings" on 1 of my old truck snowplows, and it also used that chain method and they worked great.
Once I had it all welded up, just lifting off outside edge of 1 wing to lift plow off saw horses, I got zero flex/bending, where before the wings would bend to a point before lifting plow up, so few bucks and an hour of time should make it better this winter without me having to bend them back after a big/heavy snow.
Then figured as long as it was up, took a picture of the 2" abs pipe over the cutting edge I use on my long gravel driveway and neighbors around here. Still alot of life in it even after 2 yrs. 1st yr it was stiff to get on and off, but now it’s "almost" to the point I can remove it/reinstall it by hand without tapping it down with a maul.
I am about to have a friend custom build me a trailer for my Grizzly and Suzuki four wheelers. I’m wanting it to be as small and light weight as possible, similar to the Northstar but also able to be used as a utility trailer to haul brush or construction materials. I have a Toyota RAV4 so I don’t want a heavy trailer and I also like to be able to pick up the tongue and maneuver the trailer a little if needed. We go in some pretty tight places so I want the rig as compact as possible. I’m basically building a 5 x 10 trailer with extra angle added on the back and front sides to set ramps with the railing bumped out on one side so the Grizzly can extend sideways over the front deck, level with the end of the fenders. The other ATV will drive straight up ramps on the back. I want a swing-away front jack, expanded metal floor, LED lights and at least 13" wheels, any other thoughts or recommendations for a custom build?
Hi all I just purchased a 3.5 inch led work light/light bar. My intention is to mount it facing back on the rack. How and what would be the easiest wiring. I will probably add a switch to the rack next to the seat. Any help?
It’s my first post here on the Honda ATV forum, and I’m thankful to have a bunch of guys around like yourselves to help owners out.
Here is the issue:
1985 Honda Fourtrax 250. Has been running great, but recently the electric start has stopped working. When the ignition is turned on, the neutral light does not come on like it usually does, and when I hit the electric start switch I get nothing. At this point I thought the battery had somehow just been drained, so I kick started it and she fired up right away. I let it run for awhile to charge the battery, but noticed that the neutral light would get brighter and dimmer as I throttled up and down – something I normally did not see even if the battery was low. Anyway I ran it for 15 minutes, and checked the battery voltage and it was still only 12.5v, indicating to me that the charging system was not working as it should be higher than 12.5v when running. After this, I wanted to rule out the starter, so I crossed the solenoid over with a screwdriver and the ATV started up right away, so it is not a starter or solenoid issue. Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be? Does a bad regulator/rectifier cause the electric start circuit to not work? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Hello guys, I have a ’16 commander. I have had no issues so far except one concerning thing. I washed my ride a few weeks ago and noticed right was i started to press the gas in low, it seems like she skipped once or twice before having no more issues at all stoping and starting. I figured it was some water somewhere. Fast forward to today and i cold started her and put in low, once again a slight skip when first giving gas. Not once did it happen again during the next few hours of stoping and starting. Any ideas besides burn spots on the belt?
Hello guys, I have a ’16 commander. I have had no issues so far except one concerning thing. I washed my ride a few weeks ago and noticed right was i started to press the gas in low, it seems like she skipped once or twice before having no more issues at all stoping and starting. I figured it was some water somewhere. Fast forward to today and i cold started her and put in low, once again a slight skip when first giving gas. Not once did it happen again during the next few hours of stoping and starting. Any ideas besides burn spots on the belt?
Hello, First trip north with the new Sportsman went well…..temps were cool….39-44 degrees…..ran very well….prolly head back to the cabin in December…….👍
Hello, First trip north with the new Sportsman went well…..temps were cool….39-44 degrees…..ran very well….prolly head back to the cabin in December…….👍
Hey guys I’m looking for a 2" lifted for my 2016 XMR 570. I plan on running some 28" outlaw 2 and want some more ground clearance..SUPER ATV’s has a 2" lifted for the Outlander L series but it don’t list the XMR so I’m a little worried if I buy this lifted kit it won’t work…Is there anyone running a 2" lifted on there XMR 570 or should I run spring spacers instead???
Hey guys I’m looking for a 2" lifted for my 2016 XMR 570. I plan on running some 28" outlaw 2 and want some more ground clearance..SUPER ATV’s has a 2" lifted for the Outlander L series but it don’t list the XMR so I’m a little worried if I buy this lifted kit it won’t work…Is there anyone running a 2" lifted on there XMR 570 or should I run spring spacers instead???
