Did this before I installed new oem belt too, not sure if it’s normal. Plus cover is very warm, even just putting around. Only makes the noise during clutch action. Once clutch has fully engaged, noise stops. Don’t want to blow a belt (for the 2nd time) or otherwise damage anything else. Or get stranded.
Am I paranoid?
Cleaned and lubed primary and secondary. New belt, orange spring, 1.5mm shim. Will try riding with cover off.
Sorry to harass people with this, new to Grizzly’s and cvt’s. Need input.
Added a 2004 Grizzly 660 couple weeks
ago to join my Grizzly 600 and Kodiak 400. Engine starts right up, strong and no smoke. I have changed out all fluids and no surprises/problems there. Took it out for a shake down ride and came up with the following issues:
1) No skid plates. Bought a used set from Power Sport Nation for $35. Had to drill out and tap several snapped off bolts. Installed this past weekend.
2) Definetly has the front drive shaft wobble due to worn driveshaft ends and worn diff & engine couplings. Purchased today from PartDiscounter (Niche brand). Should be replaced this weekend.
3) Fuel overflow drain dripping fuel. Used a needle & valve seat from extra carb I got thrown in on my Kodiak deal and fixed that issue. No more leak.
4) Fuel tank petcock valve does not shut off/close fuel flow. Need to order and replace.
5) Rear brake master cylinder seems to be leaking brake fluid. Need to investigate.
6) One of the tires has a tube installed. Leave it? Or break it down and see where the tire leaks. Not sure on this one.
7) One of the rear end mounting brackets is cracked at the frame. I installed a stiffening bracket I fabbed up. It uses bolts only, no welding required. I think it’s as good as the ones I have seen for sale. Maybe not quite as stiff??? It will have to do until I get the bracket rewelded. See attached pictures.
I’ve read lots on here about different mount plates for a 2015 Rubicon…looking to find one that works without doing any cutting or trimming…for a Super Winch 2500 or 3500 Synthetic…thanks for any help.
I’ve read lots on here about different mount plates for a 2015 Rubicon…looking to find one that works without doing any cutting or trimming…for a Super Winch 2500 or 3500 Synthetic…thanks for any help.
Hey All, I just got a used 1994 Kodiak off of craigslist at a price that I don’t mind letting it sit in the garage 10 months out of he year until hunting season. It runs well, idles a little too fast but ran down the road at 35 easy with no instability and all the gears worked. So, I already got a chilton manual on the way, a fuel shut of valve kit and a carb rebuild kit on the way. I personally ripped open the dried out cv boots on the test drive, so I’d like some advice on that. Any virus free downloadable user manuals out there? Also, any major watch outs I need to look at before I get 2 miles away from the hunting cabin?
Hey All, I just got a used 1994 Kodiak off of craigslist at a price that I don’t mind letting it sit in the garage 10 months out of he year until hunting season. It runs well, idles a little too fast but ran down the road at 35 easy with no instability and all the gears worked. So, I already got a chilton manual on the way, a fuel shut of valve kit and a carb rebuild kit on the way. I personally ripped open the dried out cv boots on the test drive, so I’d like some advice on that. Any virus free downloadable user manuals out there? Also, any major watch outs I need to look at before I get 2 miles away from the hunting cabin?
Hi new to the forum im rebuilding my 400ex. Doing a je 426 13:1 comp piston, webcam 479 grind with +1 valves im having the head work done by ftz. Also i will i am running the sparks bigcore exhaust. I have an 05 450r carb i plan on running on it and i want to make sure my jetting is atleast close for breaking it in right now it has a 48 pilot and a 175 main and im at 400 above sea level any suggestions would be appreciated
Hello from Michigan,
I’m new to this forum.
We have had a TRX90 for many years bought used my 3 boys have rode it and has been a real champ. Now the boys are too big for it and I want to sell it.
BTW it usually started on first or second pull. Not sure what year it is. Let me know if there is a way to tell.
However, it developed a leaking carb and I know the boys have messed with the carb settings and tried to fix themselves but only made things worse for me.
I bought a new carb for it thinking it would come with the factory settings and wouldn’t leak so it would be a drop in job and I’d be done.
No such luck….. I will admit I bought a carb off ebay I’m sure it’s a China version so don’t to be to hard on me. I just want it to start and run so I can sell it.
I have had it running but the engine was racing so fast I had to shut it down.
So I adjusted the needle to reduce the amount of gas thinking it would slow down the RPM. Then I couldn’t start it at all.
So I moved the needle setting back to the middle spot again and still can’t get it to start.
I also messed with the throttle cable adjustment and the idle screw.
Does anyone know how to set the idle screw and throttle cable to a neutral or factory setting?
Also how can I tell if the engine is getting flooded or if it’s not getting enough fuel?
