I have a 850 sportsman XP HO. Cold start issue ???

Pulling my hair out with these 520194 codes, I get 520194 -2, volts over range, 520194-3 volts high, some -4 and some throttle cable adjustment -7.
Did a few adjustment on the TPS with my 5 volt tool but seems the error code and actual reading just done jive. Not with throttle body off and jumpers on at least.
Had only 2 good rides in my recent Nov hunting trip, and limped back to camp a few other times.
So I did do the ohm check on the 3 pins as the test procedure suggests, but it does not specify how far out, if any on the ohm check that would confirm a bad TPS, anyone know how far off on the specs to confirm a bad TPS ?
These were my readings,
Pins 1&2, throttle pins closed, spec 4-5 k ohm, I got 5.3 k.
Pins 1&2, throttle pins open, spec 1150-1250 ohm, I got 1900 ohm.
Pins 1&3, any position, spec 4-6 k ohm, I got 5.67.
2 seem ok but the 1900 ohm seems too far off.
Any thoughts ?

TBark

Pulling my hair out with these 520194 codes, I get 520194 -2, volts over range, 520194-3 volts high, some -4 and some throttle cable adjustment -7.
Did a few adjustment on the TPS with my 5 volt tool but seems the error code and actual reading just done jive. Not with throttle body off and jumpers on at least.
Had only 2 good rides in my recent Nov hunting trip, and limped back to camp a few other times.
So I did do the ohm check on the 3 pins as the test procedure suggests, but it does not specify how far out, if any on the ohm check that would confirm a bad TPS, anyone know how far off on the specs to confirm a bad TPS ?
These were my readings,
Pins 1&2, throttle pins closed, spec 4-5 k ohm, I got 5.3 k.
Pins 1&2, throttle pins open, spec 1150-1250 ohm, I got 1900 ohm.
Pins 1&3, any position, spec 4-6 k ohm, I got 5.67.
2 seem ok but the 1900 ohm seems too far off.
Any thoughts ?

TBark

Hello Everyone,
I am a newbie to this forum and just purchased a 03 DS650 Baja that I know very little about including the Rotax engine. I was hoping that some of you experienced guys can help me out some. I adjusted the valves and noticed the timing was half a tooth off with alot of slack in chain. i ordered a new timing chain and wanted to know if it can be changed with motor in bike. The local shop said they have to pull the motor and wanted $1200 to do the job. Looks like the job can be done without pulling motor. Any input would be helpful.

Hello Everyone,
I am a newbie to this forum and just purchased a 03 DS650 Baja that I know very little about including the Rotax engine. I was hoping that some of you experienced guys can help me out some. I adjusted the valves and noticed the timing was half a tooth off with alot of slack in chain. i ordered a new timing chain and wanted to know if it can be changed with motor in bike. The local shop said they have to pull the motor and wanted $1200 to do the job. Looks like the job can be done without pulling motor. Any input would be helpful.

I’m thinking of upgrading and pretty sure I’ll get hosed if I do a trade in. Wondering what a fair price would be to ask. It’s a 2012 Sportsman 550 EPS, 75 hours and 334 miles. 66" poly Polaris plow, 2500lb winch, brush guard, handguards. Body panels are in good shape aside from a couple small scratches and about a 3/8" rip in the seat. Appreciate any input.

I’m thinking of upgrading and pretty sure I’ll get hosed if I do a trade in. Wondering what a fair price would be to ask. It’s a 2012 Sportsman 550 EPS, 75 hours and 334 miles. 66" poly Polaris plow, 2500lb winch, brush guard, handguards. Body panels are in good shape aside from a couple small scratches and about a 3/8" rip in the seat. Appreciate any input.

Hi. .. I just got a 04 Honda rancher 350 es 2×4 that I’m currently converting to 4×4.. in the mix of getting parts I got a 05 rancher 400 engine with the es or automatic selectable tranny.. my question is first is will the 400 engine bolt right in an attach right to everything in the 350 ?? If so , can I use the carb off of my 350 on the 400 ?? An last , will the 400 run , shift by es or auto mode with the 350 es electronics or do I have to switch the wiring harness an computer ??? Thanks in advance

I’m hoping my 2006 outlander 400 has a common and not very expensive maintenance issue… actually 2 of them.

I noticed lately that if I go forward just enough to get some momentum and then let off on the gas and let the engine slow itself down I hear a screeching from under the seat or rear end. You would swear that the brakes have activated as it sounds like a friction squeak. I replaced the front brake pads and had no noises before or after that job. I keep thinking the rear brake is doing it but I’m not touching the brakes and as far as I know the engine doesn’t apply the rear brake when it is ‘self-braking’

What else could it be? Is it the clutch winding down as it slows down and gripping something? Is there a bearing in the clutch that is bad? I bought this less than a year ago and right before I bought it the prior owner had put a brand new clutch in, he had the box and parts on hand when I bought it. I always wondered if he had adjusted that clutch correctly as it seemed like when you take off you give it gas, nothing, nothing, then a lurch as you fly forward. Same in reverse, rev rev then wham you lurch backwards. I always thought the springs or something were too tight. Figured it was a ‘new clutch’ but that hasn’t changed in the last year. Now this metallic noise when letting off gas and when ‘engine braking’ is occuring but it clearly is under the driver or near the back.

I had my brother who is pretty good with these things look at things last night use a flashlight in the dark to check out under there. He noticed that my drive shaft U joint has tremendous slop in it and you can see where there is a lot of wear from the u joint slamming back and forth due to the slop. That is a critical thing that needs to be fixed but outside of a click when it engages, that would not explain the long screech when letting off gas.

So I can get the u joint fixed but that likely won’t explain the first problem.

Any tips on getting that U joint off and fixed? Do you have to take apart the rear brake? How do you disconnect both drive shaft ends? Do I take it to a frame or axle shot to get a new one pressed on?

I’m hoping my 2006 outlander 400 has a common and not very expensive maintenance issue… actually 2 of them.

I noticed lately that if I go forward just enough to get some momentum and then let off on the gas and let the engine slow itself down I hear a screeching from under the seat or rear end. You would swear that the brakes have activated as it sounds like a friction squeak. I replaced the front brake pads and had no noises before or after that job. I keep thinking the rear brake is doing it but I’m not touching the brakes and as far as I know the engine doesn’t apply the rear brake when it is ‘self-braking’

What else could it be? Is it the clutch winding down as it slows down and gripping something? Is there a bearing in the clutch that is bad? I bought this less than a year ago and right before I bought it the prior owner had put a brand new clutch in, he had the box and parts on hand when I bought it. I always wondered if he had adjusted that clutch correctly as it seemed like when you take off you give it gas, nothing, nothing, then a lurch as you fly forward. Same in reverse, rev rev then wham you lurch backwards. I always thought the springs or something were too tight. Figured it was a ‘new clutch’ but that hasn’t changed in the last year. Now this metallic noise when letting off gas and when ‘engine braking’ is occuring but it clearly is under the driver or near the back.

I had my brother who is pretty good with these things look at things last night use a flashlight in the dark to check out under there. He noticed that my drive shaft U joint has tremendous slop in it and you can see where there is a lot of wear from the u joint slamming back and forth due to the slop. That is a critical thing that needs to be fixed but outside of a click when it engages, that would not explain the long screech when letting off gas.

So I can get the u joint fixed but that likely won’t explain the first problem.

Any tips on getting that U joint off and fixed? Do you have to take apart the rear brake? How do you disconnect both drive shaft ends? Do I take it to a frame or axle shot to get a new one pressed on?