I just got an 2011 big bear 400 IRS. Im replacing the rear diff, I had to buy the whole case assembly. If you look at one of the exploded views it’s number 7 on the drive shaft figure. Now I’m trying to take the yoke off the old case but I am trying to only remove the locking nut. Does anyone know if just removing the nut will enable me to remove the rest or will I need to take both yokes apart to remove just that nut?
I am in the process or rebuilding my 2012 sportsman 850. The bike has a whopping 1100kms (550 miles) on it. The problem I had is the pressed on timing gear on the crank slipped and the pistons hit all 8 valves. I am replacing the pistons, rings, rods, wristpins, rod and crank bearings and all valves and guides.
Has anyone else had this happen to them? If so could you please comment on year of bike and mileage that this occurred?
Please only respond if you have had the issue of timing gear slippage
I am installing a winch on my 2016 Rancher. I have the accessory sub harness installed from when I installed the 12 volt socket. My question is do I use a bullet connector (male) to plug into the harness? Also do I plug the rocker switch wire into the sub harness connection with one white wire or the connection with two wires (white and green)? Thanks for any help.
This Visco-Lok has to go. When will BRP go with a normal locking front diff? Mud N Wheels is going to convert this to a manual locker enough of this already.
BRP its time to ditch the Visco Lok!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have a 2008 sportsman 500 ho efi X2 it starts hrd with the ignition but when i use the pull start it fires right up. people have told me the valves need lashing but it only has 250 hours on it. any ideas?
Looking for a little advice.
My father gave me his 05 Phoenix 200 that has at most, 8 hours run time on it.
So, for the most part it’s new internally. It never cranked cold very well from the time he bought it, even after several trips to the Dealer. It has basically sat in his shed covered for the last few years and now it’s mine.
Problem 1, can’t find the key….. if I buy a key blank from EBay, is it possible to get it cut to fit the ignition switch?
Problem 2, where do I go from here once I get the ignition issue corrected?
I’m thinking clean entire fuel system and carb rebuild are in order, but before I go that route are thee any carb issues that you folks have encountered? Would I be ahead of the curve purchasing a New carb or even retrofitting one from a different model?
Any and all responses are welcomed and encouraged!!😀
While helping a friend replace the front left outer cv boot we’ve run into a problem… We are not set up with enough room to remove the axle. So we’ve seen the CONE method and have a long funnel cut to fit perfect , the problem is the cv boot is quite tough, thick rubber . I’ll give it a try tomorrow with the heat gun and dish soap as lube . I’d like to know if alot of HEAT will disfigure the cv boot ?? Or how hot can I get it before I ruin it ?? I’m trying to avoid ordering another cv boot . Is there a special trick in stretching the small hole of the cv boot over the large part of the axle ?? Again we do not want to remove the axle …
I just purchased a 2005 rancher 300, the previous owner had put an after market 2wd/4wd selector on it and the cable is broken that connects it. How much is this to fix is it something I can do my self . Please help . Thanks
As a whole I am disappointed with the many ‘little’ things that were not done or were done incorrectly. Two lines not connected, loose fittings and two missing bolts in the rear and the plastic and frame aren’t in alignment.
The dealer has been of little use, friendly but useless. I am told the two bolts are not needed and my question to them was "why in the hell would Polaris put them in then?". I stopped by another dealer and bought them, I will ask ya’lls opinion, should I try and get a decent alignment before putting them in or is it no big deal? They are the bolts next to the socket in the screenshot, one on each side and they are about 1//4 inch out of alignment
