I am new to this group and look forward to viewing/learning from many on this website. I am not new to ATV’s started with a Honda 110 and owned many in between to my current unit, a Honda Rancher. Personally, I would like to get an older 3 wheeler to putts around the property and will be on the lookout for a unit here or elsewhere….
Installed a 12" LED light recently and rode for 500 miles in rain, sleet and slop for 3 days. Drove home in open trailer in monsoon rain storm then cleaned the machine up. The light was very easy to install and work perfectly the whole trip, BUT. Prepping the machine for winter storage and the light will not turn on. This is what I know: light switch with LED indicator is on, inline fuse is not blown, grip warmers work (works off the same machine fuse) and no visible breaks in the wiring.
I have a multimeter but am unsure how to use it correctly and I’m not sure if the light bar has failed completely. Looking for any help to use the multimeter or other means to troubleshoot were this failing.
1986 Honda Fourtrax starter noise when key is turned off with engine idling, sounds like starter Bendix gear engaging briefly right when engine dies??????
Sounds like starter bendix briefly engages as the engine dies when key is turned off and engine at idle???
Has a brief noise that sounds same as when starter bendix engages when cranking when the key is turned off and the engine dies. (Only has this sound for last second of engine dying when at idle???:huh:
I’m almost certain it’s the starter Bendix engaging, but might be wrong again.
Can I run non ebs drive clutch with ebs secondary?
It had ebs but now the drive clutch is a standard non-ebs clutch and Now the secondary spins at idle. Which non ebs polaris belt # do i need or should my ebs belt work? Fyi the secondary is still the one that came with the atv new ,(ebs) and before i converted to the non ebs clutch everything was fine. The ebs clutch was all cracked so i put on a non ebs.
Newb alert!
Thanks for reading.
New member, my name is Don. I live in Columbia, SC.
I recently purchased a nice, clean, 2006 Kodiak 400 4×4.
I am having a problem with the engine losing power, cutting off and failing to re-start.
a little more info- The engine starts right up and runs as good as I would expect from a carb (I’ve had several honda atvs, carbs and FI). The problem can occur cold, warm or hot. Sometimes it will run all day w/o issue. When it dies it goes from running great then seems to completely lose spark or fuel abruptly, dies and will not re-start. If you try to crank it the starter spins over as normal (kill switch kills starter not just spark fwiw). If you wait a while it starts at the first touch of the button and runs great. Thatmay take 10min to overnight.
I realize I am likely losing spark or fuel. I have also wondered if debris in the carb or on a filter could be starving the engine for fuel.
Any help for a starting point would be appreciated. I am reasonable mechanically inclined. This machine is in good shape and I really like it when it runs well.
I will take any help I can get. If you know of a reasonable mechanic not too far away I’m not too proud to pay someone else to fix it.
My first introduction into owning an ATV isn’t going well so far. The left rear wheel has a leak so it seems I need to replace the oil seals. One out near the wheel (91252-HA0-004) and one near the differential (91255-HA0-681). It also appears the previous owner just rigged things back together rather than fix them properly. I Had a terrible time trying to remove one of the lug nuts. After finally getting it off, I realized why. The threads were almost complete gone on the stud (see picture 1). I thought, no problem, I’ll just replace the stud. No luck. It seems the previous owner welded it to the hub (see picture 2). I finally managed to get the stud back by using a die to clean the threads. I can now run a lug nut down it. I do need to buy a lug nut to replace the one that was torque’d down to tight. The next obstacle was the axle nut. It did not have a cotter pin which should have been my first clue that something was amiss. Using a 30mm socket, I could not break it loose. Even after soaking with PB Blaster and getting my son to stand on the rear brake, I could not budge it. I finally got the propane torch out and heated and then gently banged on it with a hammer. After repeating this several times, it finally broke free. I figured the next struggle would be getting the hub off the axle, but to my surprise it tapped off pretty easy. It was about time for some good fortune. The threads on the axle shaft are a little rough (see picture 3). I’d like to clean them up with a die. According to the parts list, it’s 20mm. Does anyone know the pitch? I’ve seen dies with a 2.5 pitch, but not sure if this is correct. So, to put it all back together, I plan on purchasing the following:
2 previously mentioned seals
new axle nut (90304-HM7-A10)
a couple of lug nuts (90314-HM5-A10)
Am I missing anything? Everthing else seems in good shape (knock on wood). The swingarm parts diagram shows an oring where the left shaft housing assembly mounts to the differential. Should I replace this oring? Also, for the outer bearing and seal, do I pack this with grease. Thanks for the help.
Again, if anyone knows the pitch of the axle shaft, that information would be much appreciated.
I borrowed this from blackout’s post, seems to be a fast access to service manuals ?, lets hope it works ?!. click on this link –> https://drive.google.com/drive/folde…lRpdjBDQjl5TGs , then click on your make/model to locate a service manual for your make/model. if this works ?, give thanks to blackout for the link :-).
I was tightening the bolt on the positive battery terminal when my wrench handle touched the frame, causing a big flash. Now it won’t start, turns over great but just won’t fire. It is a 2013 850 HO.