2010 800r
What’s the trick to removing the clutch rollers? Both ends of the pin are the same size and there are no clips. There are little arrows but I’m unsure what they indicate. Do I just tap them out? Sorry I do not have the manual
I have a 2014 Outlander 500 XT. I am putting it away for winter so I have been greasing the machine. I found 8 zerks in the front 4 right and 4 left. In the rear I found 3 right and 3 left and 1 in the u-joint. How many zerks are there on this machine? 15 is all I can find.
I am a new member and I really enjoy reading what goes on here. Now my problem. I was changing the left rear CV shaft and it separated leaving me with a short stub stuck in the transmission. I can’t remove it. I have tried some pry bars, however they couldn’t fit in there. I desperately need ideas because I am stuck. Heeelp
Just bought a used outlander with tracks already on it and have a few odd questions.
when driving is it best to leave it in 4 wheel drive always? or is 2 wheel drive ok? (I’m thinking the tracks down spin as freely as tires do.)
I know the speedometer is not accurate, but what happens to the odometer the machine I bought has 450 miles mostly with the tracks so is it safe to assume the mileage is correct or is it actually higher or lower?
finally the tracks are tatou 4s, how hard is on the tracks to drive on blacktop?
Just bought a used outlander with tracks already on it and have a few odd questions.
when driving is it best to leave it in 4 wheel drive always? or is 2 wheel drive ok? (I’m thinking the tracks down spin as freely as tires do.)
I know the speedometer is not accurate, but what happens to the odometer the machine I bought has 450 miles mostly with the tracks so is it safe to assume the mileage is correct or is it actually higher or lower?
finally the tracks are tatou 4s, how hard is on the tracks to drive on blacktop?
So I finally got my 1995 Xplorer 400 running and driving after ignoring it all summer. Then I got the wiring figured out for the 4×4 (bought it as junk for a case of beer, she’s a fixer upper) and found I only had three wheel drive. Ok fine, so I check the wiring going to and from the hub, that all tests fine, so I took the hub off to find the hilliard is trash. No suprise there, the flat piece with the three tabs chewed the crap out of the aluminum hilliard carrier so it couldn’t lock up.
My question is, how strongly should the coil hold the flat piece with the tangs to it. I can pull it off by hand easy and spin it easy. Is that still enough to lock the hilliard is is the coil weak too? I could take the other side apart to check but I figured I’d ask first. I can always take it apart while I’m waiting for parts for this side if I have to.
Hi all, just joined the forum. I have exercised all my options and I can’t get this machine figured out. I have this machine, a 570 touring 2up,and a 800. So I’m pretty familiar with these machines. I had the top end re built, just had the carb re built, and just checked the belt. Last night the machine ran awesome for about 3 miles. I live in conifer Colorado so I’m at about 8300 ft. I had the carb re jetted when they re built it, literally just got it back last week and installed it yesterday. I checked all the fluids today, was real excited to have this machine back and running good. So I rode it down the rode today and it started cutting out and losing power like it was before I did all this work to it! When it’s in neutral it wraps up just fine, when it’s in gear it has power and then starts sputtering out. I don’t get it, does anyone have some options for me to try? Or anyone in Colorado that’s interested in looking at it for me. This has been a good machine for a long time. Hopefully it’s not shot! Thanks
