ok i’ve been dealing with this since i’ve bought the quad, but recently it has been getting worse, it’s a 2000 scrambler 500 H.O. 4×4
99% of the time when I first start the quad and turn the AWD on it works perfectly both front wheels lock in and spin. However sometimes when shifting from drive to reverse or reverse to drive the light will not come back on and I lose the 4 wheel drive. If I sit and play with it (shifting back and forth from reverse to drive, switching the AWD on and off or even shutting the quad off and back on) the AWD light will come back on and work perfectly for a little then it will happen again. I have eliminated the trans switch since I have neutral and reverse lights, have changed all fluids multiple times and have tired the YouTube "fix" of splicing the ground wires and connecting to solenoid. All that did was make the AWD light come, no front wheel spin.
ok i’ve been dealing with this since i’ve bought the quad, but recently it has been getting worse, it’s a 2000 scrambler 500 H.O. 4×4
99% of the time when I first start the quad and turn the AWD on it works perfectly both front wheels lock in and spin. However sometimes when shifting from drive to reverse or reverse to drive the light will not come back on and I lose the 4 wheel drive. If I sit and play with it (shifting back and forth from reverse to drive, switching the AWD on and off or even shutting the quad off and back on) the AWD light will come back on and work perfectly for a little then it will happen again. I have eliminated the trans switch since I have neutral and reverse lights, have changed all fluids multiple times and have tired the YouTube "fix" of splicing the ground wires and connecting to solenoid. All that did was make the AWD light come, no front wheel spin.
The manual says "Loosen chain tensioner lock bolts and
caliper support bolt." The chain tensioner lock bolts are completely removed. The caliper support bolt does not exist and even if it did I have no idea what it would be loosening. With a screwdriver through the sprocket and hub holes, I can ram it forwards and backwards but it will not budge. The axle bearing carrier is loose enough in the swing arm housing that I can wobble the whole axle bearing carrier in the housing. It seems like the bearing carrier and the caliper support bracket are seized together. As a matter a fact, they look like all 1 piece.
Am I missing something here? The caliper support bracket should rotate on the axle bearing carrier right?
On my 2016 Grizzly it came with the warn winch kit. It has 3/16" cable. I wanna get the synthetic rope. Do I stick with 3/16" rope size? I’m guessing I do but not sure!
On my 2016 Grizzly it came with the warn winch kit. It has 3/16" cable. I wanna get the synthetic rope. Do I stick with 3/16" rope size? I’m guessing I do but not sure!
I have an 06 ES 350 that is giving me some electrical problems. Need some help diagnosing it.
Here’s the problem: Key in start position, dash lights up, neutral light illuminates. Press start switch, nothing. No attempt to start. No clicking. Nothing. Headlight/Dimmer switch gives me nothing. No brake lights with hand brakes but they DO work with the foot brake.
It will pull start easily. Runs fine. But still no headlights.
Pulled the battery, trickle charged overnight. Still nothing. Checked fuse box, they all check out.
First time so hope I get things right. I have a 1987 Big Bear 350 4×4. It’s tan colored and the hi/lo/reverse shifter is on the left front fender. The throttle cable splits into two cables before the carb. Then it enters the carb at the top plate where it hooks to a flat slide and also into the side where it hooks to a butterfly. The carb is a Mikuni and the plastic plate on the side has "BTM" on it. It seems there is both a flat slide and a brass butterfly on this carb. My question is, What exactly do I have? It is very hard to keep running at starting but runs OK when it is warmed up. Do I need to reset the needle valve richer? It is set on the middle notch now. At first starting, I have to have fully choked and it will die until I restart fully choked about 5-6 times. Then it has to run fully choked for 3-4 minutes before I can take the choke off and use the 4-wheeler. If it is warmed up, it will start, but if it sits ten minutes or so its the same story. Colder weather makes the problem worse. Thank you in advance for any advise.
I recently bought a 88-89 300 , it wouldn’t start unless you crossed it across the solenoid, I bought a new one and installed it.
After I put new solenoid in I went to hook up the battery and as soon as I try to hook up battery it turns over.
Even with key "off". Wont start with key off but turns over , starts right up with key on.
Anyone got any ideas , does it matter which wire goes where on solenoid?
Also trying to find serial #?
Paper tag on front A-frame/fork worn plus has paint on it?
Is there somewhere serial is stamped in?
Riding this past weekend and the last couple miles the grizzly 660 started misfiring. Also noticed the reverse light lighting up same time. Never quit but just slowed down. After poking around on this forum looking up the symptoms I was experiencing it dawned on me it did sound like it was hitting a rev limiter. So I found out how to do the reverse rev limiter mod and made the wiring change. I will test it out soon as I can to confirm the fix and report back here.
