I have a rancher 420 auto tripping alarms and unplugging this stops the engine light, temp light, and fan?

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Hello All ,
Great site (except the ads LOL). OK… So for all of US peeps that plow with our ATV/UTV’s , the most annoying thing ( and Damaging $$$$) to our machines and our Wallets, (OK for me as a newbie anyways) and to mention I’ve seen a few posts about this, is, the fact you cannot get your winch to stop or prevent overlifting of the front implement or plow.

Case in point , I just purchased a used 2006 Sprotsman 800 EFI and immediately had a 3000# winch and 60" Moose plow installed before it even left the shop. LOVE IT !!!! LOVE IT !!!! ….. But as I was unloading it (in a super hurry seeing it was a borrowed trailer from the place of purchase and also I was parked in the street too boot) LOL . SO I bring down off the ramp (plow is up) and move into driveway to just place there to bring trailer back, I had gloves on and went to lower the plow and hit the up button by accident (winter gloves = bulky and small rocker switch with very close switches) and add rushing, I pushed the up/in instead and tweaked something in the front of the machine where the winch mounting plate bolts too ( Not bad though a 1/16" maybe ) but never the less its slightly bent now and bugging the ever loving crap out of me.

Ohhh, BTW here are some of my credentials just so you all know I’m not some junk yard mechanic LOL (not that that’s a bad thing just saying ) . I have been an electrician for over 20 yrs and have been an industrial maintenance /robotics "engineer/manager for industrial maintenance and automation for over 9 yrs .

OK now that’s out the bag LOL. So being the perfectionist I am this little up down issue is going to be solved for once an for all but I would like to share with everyone here just to kinda give back a little perhaps.

So what I am going to do to prevent over-lifting a.k.a. pulling the winch off the front , I am proposing to mount a relay (placement TBD) that via a 12vdc proximity will cut out the up button power Only! not the down. Also I am installing two led indicator lights just above and on either side of the spedo bezel ( space providing of course, location might have to change when I open her up to do surgery) to visually indicate where or rather what position the plow is in ( RED for up position and Green for Down ) . This way not matter what you have strapped to your front rack you will be able to know weather your implement is up or down without the need to get off the machine or via the prox and relay NEVER have to worry about ripping the winch off or damaging our very expensive frame to our machines EVER AGAIN !!!!
Dang thats alot of typing LOL.

So please let me know what you all think I just ordered what I need from grainger and I will be installing hopefully Tues or sometime before next snowfall I hope!!!
Merry Xmas to all and please leave reply’s to let me know if I missed something or what ?????

I have a Rancher 420 Auto. This thing is clicking when switch is turned on and off im not sure if its related to the problem or not. I can start the engine but does not want to stay running. The engine light and temp. light and fan comes on and it dies.

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After all the good input on this forum and other research, I went to the dealer yesterday to try to buy (or at least get close to) a purchase of a Honda 2016, 2000 EPS. The dealer is almost out of 2016 Honda’s, and sort of steered me to the Polaris 1000. He wanted me to ride in both machines, but all they have is a large parking lot. Anyway he tried to sell me on the comfort of the seats, the belt drive over the gear drive, and easier access to the engine – the costs would be very simitlar.

The Polaris was somewhat impressive with it’s more car like interior, and easy access to spark plugs etc. My wife arrived when I was talking to the salesman, and she made a comment on the jerking of the gear shifting on my manual shifting Foreman. He naturally jumped on that with the "advantages" of the belt drive on the Polaris (I always thought it was a disadvantage myself).

Now I’m having to include my wife in the discussion (not a show stopper) since he convinced her of the superior ride on the Polaris. I will use the machine for both trail and some work around my 10 acres, and reliability is the primary reason that I’ve always leaned toward Honda. I will never be doing anything extreme on the trail or at work – at least intentionally. A superior ride could influence me if it was really significant.

Any comments besides to hire a good lawyer?

Still undecided on what machine I will buy. I havent ridden any new ones yet but need advice. Going either Renegade or Outlander 850 or 1,000. For those who have had or ridden both please chime in. Assume both machines are set up
with 25" tires and have the same shocks. Does the rene really handle that much better than the Outy on rough technical tight trails? If so why since they R the same underneath just a little lighter in weight. How does the rene compare with mud coverage when it has the extended fender mud guards? Obviously U loose the front rack w the rene but no biggie. I am looking at building a xxc Outy like the 2011 xxc or just buy the rene xxc and add rear rack and fender extenders. Coming from an 06 Outy then rzr and now a Yamaha Raptor 700 that covers U w mega mud and I am not a mud lover as I am getting older, what do you all say?

I tried to move this post from another forum, hope it doesn’t cause any problems. How does the front drive unit activate, I mean mechanically? New owner, when the bike is up on the stand in 2wd, the left front spins freely (well, bent disc so it hangs up a little) but the right front catches and pulls, no clunking so no bad CV joint I think, but I can really feel the ring and pinion teeth going by each other.

My question is, does the right front axle stay engaged to the diff all the time? Or is something wrong with the actuator so mine does? It’s a lot more resistance to turn the right by hand than it is the left, and the bike always pulls a little to the right.
I had a 86 dodge 150 that had rf axle always engaged and the lf was 2 piece with a vacuum actuator that slid a sleeve over the splines to lock the 2, is the reason I’m wondering. Oh yeah, 09 550 eps

I picked up this 2004 Polaris sportsman 500 atp a few weeks ago and have put a lot of work into it. The only thing I can’t seem to repair is the turf mode to work. The rear diff is always locked. I pulled the solenoid off of the diff and tested it on 12v and it works. I put my meter to the lead and found very little resistance. So maybe it’s gone bad? I also checked the voltage across the harness side connection while the key was on. I noticed that with the switch on "turf" my reading was 12v and with it switched to off or awd the reading was around 10.5 – 11v. To me that seems odd, you would think switching to off would drop the voltage to nothing. I traced the wires back to a module up front with 5 leads.
Does anyone have a link to the 04 atp wiring diagram?

2008 outlaw 525s. when in reverse my tranny will sometimes knock really hard and then gets stuck in reverse. hard to go back into 1st gear. no leakes all fluids are full. does this sound familiar to anyone please help. thanks.

A little background:

I’m the second owner of a 98 TRX300FW. I have had it for about 5 years and had no problems until now. Have just done maintenance with guidance from this site using the service manual I downloaded from a link I got here (many thanks!).

My 4+ year old battery finally died so I have been kick starting for about 3 weeks. It was deer season and I didn’t want to mess with it.

Deer season is over so I got around to getting a new battery and, after charging it, I installed it – cleaning wire tabs and applying dielectric grease.
Press the starter and it fires! Great!! Unfortunately it only ran for a 20 seconds and now will not start….but it cranks great. All the fuses are OK. I checked wire connections – all are tight and clean (now).

I have tried starter fluid – nothing.
I pulled the plug, it looks OK and I checked for spark – it seems to be strong.
So I figure it has to be fuel BUT it was running fine before I replaced the battery and was kickstarting it.

I have it home now and have pulled the carburetor. It is dirty and I ordered a rebuild kit but while I’m waiting for it, I wondered if there were any other items I should be looking for??

BTW – I use about 1 tank of fuel per month and fill the quad and my generator from the same gas can. The generator is running fine using the same fuel supplied from the same can – so that should eliminate bad gas or contamination as the culprit.

Thanks for any ideas or theories as to why my otherwise solid machine suddenly gave up on me.

Merry Christmas
Jim

I’ve been lurking here for a while and have picked up a lot of tips.
Thanks to all for the help!

Will be posting another new thread shortly for an issue I have not found an answer to….yet.

Jim