I removed/cleaned the fuel tank and rebuilt the carburetor. It started right up. Kudos to me on the rebuild, yea! I rode the 2001 Rancher for the first time today and all the previous advice about ride quality was dead-on. One thing that stood out to me was the lack of 21cc. Hit the throttle on the ’88 foreman and the motivation is close behind in XL1st gear or 2nd gear.
My questions:
1.) Does my assessment of pick up and seat-o-the-pants performance ring true? I am 6’1" 275 (husky, right?) but the difference in motivation was very apparent.
or, is it a tuning issue?
2.) I am still at the initial 1.75 turns out on the pilot screw. Can anyone on the boards help me with optimizing the performance beyond the seat-o-the-pants. I have one of the those tachometers from on-line and I have yet to consult the service manual about performance and carb tuning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
NOTE – I used a trick I learned on TV to clear up the cloudy fuel gauge, Toothpaste on a soft rag and vigorous elbow grease. Cleared it right up. You need to use the abrasive baking soda whitening type toothpaste.
Working on some things on my 2015 XP 1000 and removed front covers to get to the battery. when I opened it up, I found this wire unplugged. Should this be plugged together, or is it intentional for use on something else? The wire is orange with white stripe. the only place I can find it on the fuse block is on one labeled "Unswitch 10amp". BTW, everything seems to be working…
Just picked up a 2014 can am 1000 xtp. Has plow, hand/thumb warmers. 540 miles (one owner)
Have some intimidator 28" tires on the way on msa rims.
I do have a Quick question. I see a lot of 2 inch lift kits meant for the XT but they don’t mention whether or not the XTP would use the same kit. Because this has the fox shocks on it, is there a different kit that’s required or are they compatible?
Just bought a 1998 300ex, its runs and rides great all the power is there but it has a loud ticking tapping noise coming from the top front of the motor at idle and acceleration. I’ve also noticed that smoke comes out of the gasket where motor meets the exhaust pipe. I’m not the most mechanically inclined person, any ideas what this is? And is it bad to continue riding? Bike has no issues with bogging down.
Hey guys. Restored a 1988 TRX300 and all has been well for 2 years since until now. The thing suddenly won’t turn over. Changed spark plugs, been adding seafoam to new tanks of gas, charged battery. But still struggles like it’s about to start but never does. I’m not very mechanically inclined. The restoration I did was all body related, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I live in MN and have tried riding the trails when there is snow and ice and it has not really been that fun because I cannot get much traction and many times I am just spinning my wheels and running the machine at much higher rpms. I have decent tires Bighorn 20s, my question is would rear chains help much? And could they hurt anything?
I hate sitting the entire winter out but I sold my snowmobile years ago because I could not use very much because of the lack of snow.
Sorry for the long post, if you have any experience please let me know!
Thx.
Let me start by saying that I have zero interest in a big bore twin myself. So I come at this only from a general interest in powersports technologies and engineering. Skip to the bottom paragraph if you want to jump to my idea.
I’ve heard it said many times before that Yamaha won’t come out with a big bore twin in the Grizzly because the wet clutch would not be able to handle that much power. Some may argue against that theory, but let’s just assume it is true, because Yamaha hasn’t gone down the path of putting their ultramatic in anything bigger than a 708 single. And could you imagine the hayday their competitors would have if yamaha put a more standard snowmobile style cvt in a new big bore atv? After all of Yamaha’s promotion of the ultramatic, it would be a marketing nightmare.
So anyway, here is my idea…
Yamaha already has the clutch technology to use the ultramatic in a 1000cc twin. They could replace the existing Grizzly centrifugal wet clutch with the multi-plate clutch that is automatically controlled by computer from the YXZ SS. Then they’d still be able to have the constant belt tension and true engine breaking you get with the ultramatic, but no centrifugal clutch to slip.
Let me start by saying that I have zero interest in a big bore twin myself. So I come at this only from a general interest in powersports technologies and engineering. Skip to the bottom paragraph if you want to jump to my idea.
I’ve heard it said many times before that Yamaha won’t come out with a big bore twin in the Grizzly because the wet clutch would not be able to handle that much power. Some may argue against that theory, but let’s just assume it is true, because Yamaha hasn’t gone down the path of putting their ultramatic in anything bigger than a 708 single. And could you imagine the hayday their competitors would have if yamaha put a more standard snowmobile style cvt in a new big bore atv? After all of Yamaha’s promotion of the ultramatic, it would be a marketing nightmare.
So anyway, here is my idea…
Yamaha already has the clutch technology to use the ultramatic in a 1000cc twin. They could replace the existing Grizzly centrifugal wet clutch with the multi-plate clutch that is automatically controlled by computer from the YXZ SS. Then they’d still be able to have the constant belt tension and true engine breaking you get with the ultramatic, but no centrifugal clutch to slip.
The front shocks are blown on my 15 800xmr, not suprising. They sucked to begin with. But i got 2 years riding outa them so its whatever. Definetly not enough shock for this machines weight. Anyhow. I need to replace them. Cant afford elkas, wish i could but house comes first.
