All posts by dstech

05 tr400

Hey everyone,

Looking for some help. I bought my wife a 2005 TRX400 for this last Christmas. It is having a bit of trouble staying idling so I went to go adjust the fuel mixture bit. That is when I found out that you need some special tool for the 2005s. I looked into getting one of those extended fuel mixture screws like I used to have on my old Raptor. Can’t seem to find one that will fit this bike anywhere and I also can’t find this special tool that is needed. Any help would be appreciated. I have done multiple searches of people asking these things before but I can’t really find a definitive response on something that has worked.

Thanks

Push to start or “race start” button wiring,

last year I got smoked off the line by some much slower riders on can ams, not a huge deal because I was able to pass them within the first few miles but it cost me my rad getting dirt shoveled in and later some unnecessary limp mode caused from overheating.

its awkward to try and reach around with my left hand to turn the key over and then pin the throttle with my right while getting my left hand back up to the bars. I did some prodding and poking on the interwebs and with a race friend and I figured out what to wire up/tap into.

I bought the "Cambridge Push Button Momentary Switch, 20A, 12V DC, 240W" from tractor supply for $3, drilled a 1/2 hole and mounted it on the left side of my display pod, closer to the bars.

used 2 female spade style clips with ~18" of 18gauge wire, crimped and heatshrunk everything together.

remove hood piece, unplug the 4 wire harness that plugs into the back of the key switch (key switch, not the auxillary plug!)

used 2 quick splice connectors to tap into the following wires:

2014 850: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is ORANGE
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2014 1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is RED w/ BROWN tracer
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2015 850/1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is BROWN
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

I was told running this in parallel would give me the push to start button and the turn key as a back up. my turn key however would not work on its own after I tapped into the wires…

also, the first time I attempted to start the quad the button wouldn’t work, I pulled the quick splices back apart and found that the metal tapper wasn’t cutting through the rubber to make good contact with the copper wire. I had to strip a small piece out an re crimp the quick splice, then we worked!

unfortunately on my fourth push button start my damn plugs must have fouled again, (3rd time in a month) and all I could get was some crank no start. So tonight I’m swapping plugs and draining the gas out. guessing that VP110 is a bit much for the poor scrammy

I will take some more pics tonight of what I did

Push to start or “race start” button wiring,

last year I got smoked off the line by some much slower riders on can ams, not a huge deal because I was able to pass them within the first few miles but it cost me my rad getting dirt shoveled in and later some unnecessary limp mode caused from overheating.

its awkward to try and reach around with my left hand to turn the key over and then pin the throttle with my right while getting my left hand back up to the bars. I did some prodding and poking on the interwebs and with a race friend and I figured out what to wire up/tap into.

I bought the "Cambridge Push Button Momentary Switch, 20A, 12V DC, 240W" from tractor supply for $3, drilled a 1/2 hole and mounted it on the left side of my display pod, closer to the bars.

used 2 female spade style clips with ~18" of 18gauge wire, crimped and heatshrunk everything together.

remove hood piece, unplug the 4 wire harness that plugs into the back of the key switch (key switch, not the auxillary plug!)

used 2 quick splice connectors to tap into the following wires:

2014 850: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is ORANGE
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2014 1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is RED w/ BROWN tracer
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2015 850/1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is BROWN
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

I was told running this in parallel would give me the push to start button and the turn key as a back up. my turn key however would not work on its own after I tapped into the wires…

also, the first time I attempted to start the quad the button wouldn’t work, I pulled the quick splices back apart and found that the metal tapper wasn’t cutting through the rubber to make good contact with the copper wire. I had to strip a small piece out an re crimp the quick splice, then we worked!

unfortunately on my fourth push button start my damn plugs must have fouled again, (3rd time in a month) and all I could get was some crank no start. So tonight I’m swapping plugs and draining the gas out. guessing that VP110 is a bit much for the poor scrammy

I will take some more pics tonight of what I did

Any custom or 3rd party replacement rear storage solutions yet?

I finally got the chance to see a 2016 Grizzly up close and agree that the plastic storage bin by the tail light has a joke for a locking door. Has anybody either fabricated their own or know of a 3rd party vendor who’s making a replacement option? If not, I think any good fabricator has a chance at making some good side $$ by coming up with a simple replacement storage bin that fits in the same area as the stock box. A thin aluminum or carbon fiber molded box would be sweet!

I get that’s it’s basically storage for a tow strap, but I want some security knowing if I put a strap in there and go for a ride, I won’t have to backtrack my entire route later looking for the strap that fell out.

2004 Sportsman 500 front hub question

Even though I’ve posted a couple of previous questions, I’m still a newbie.
My wife’s early 2004 (new to her last summer) is not engaging the left front hub lately. I drained the fluid from both, pulled the caps and cleaned the inside as instructed. Fluid was really dark. I could only get about 1oz in each side before it began running out the fill hole when rotated to about 3:30. Shouldn’t they take 4 or 5 oz each? Any ideas?

Oh yeah, the 4×4 icon on the console does not show up any longer either.

Also, every time I try to search a topic my results come back with nothing found comment. What might I be doing wrong?

Kenda Bearclaw HTR size?

I have a 2016 Sportsman 570 and want to put a set of Bearclaw HTRs on with new wheels. I really like the 14" wheels but the HTRs do not come in 27" to fit 14s. I think I’d have issues with the small sidewall of the 26". Any idea if there would be rubbing with 28" tires and 14" rims?

Another skid thread

I am at a point that I’m looking at skids for the ’14. I’m pretty set on the ricochet, but I don’t know if I should get them with the UHMW overlay. I don’t ride a lot of rocky locations now, but that’s not saying that there wouldn’t be rocky terrain rides in the future. What do you guy’s think about this set up? How heavy is the set with the overlay?