Had a problem with winch not pulling in but letting out. Read for fix.
Problem was the solenoid. Disassembled solenoid and the T shaped pieces that are supposed to go up and down by coils to power winch were jamming in slot. It was because the quality control sucks and WARN winch did not debur the pieces after stamping. The rough edges causing it to hang up in the slot and not meet the contacts flat or not at all!
After filing all edges smooth it works 100% now. Also make sure the electrical connection bolts are tight to body of cover. They were not on mine and that also lends to poor connection internally.
I had to get back to snow plowing so could not wait for part and no dealers around here so glad I got determined to fix. Hope this helps people out there!
Had a problem with winch not pulling in but letting out. Read for fix.
Problem was the solenoid. Disassembled solenoid and the T shaped pieces that are supposed to go up and down by coils to power winch were jamming in slot. It was because the quality control sucks and WARN winch did not debur the pieces after stamping. The rough edges causing it to hang up in the slot and not meet the contacts flat or not at all!
After filing all edges smooth it works 100% now. Also make sure the electrical connection bolts are tight to body of cover. They were not on mine and that also lends to poor connection internally.
I had to get back to snow plowing so could not wait for part and no dealers around here so glad I got determined to fix. Hope this helps people out there!
While looking around on atvtrader.com I came across a 17 1000 Touring model, what I did notice though is that the exhaust is changed a resembles the 850’s now and it appears to have the digital gauge of the regular 1000’s. Polaris didn’t list these changes for 2017 on there site, does anybody know of any changes made to them?
While looking around on atvtrader.com I came across a 17 1000 Touring model, what I did notice though is that the exhaust is changed a resembles the 850’s now and it appears to have the digital gauge of the regular 1000’s. Polaris didn’t list these changes for 2017 on there site, does anybody know of any changes made to them?
I have a honda 400ex and my over flow tube is leaking fuel. Just put a brand new carburetor on it couple weeks ago and it started after the first week. I’ve removed it several times check the float the needle etc everything is fine. I put it all back together is it will do fine for like 10 min then just steadily pour fuel out. Does it have anything to do with the fuel drain screw I felt I read about that somewhere. Even if I tap the carb it won’t stop leaking. Any help would be great. Thanks
I have a honda 400ex and my over flow tube is leaking fuel. Just put a brand new carburetor on it couple weeks ago and it started after the first week. I’ve removed it several times check the float the needle etc everything is fine. I put it all back together is it will do fine for like 10 min then just steadily pour fuel out. Does it have anything to do with the fuel drain screw I felt I read about that somewhere. Even if I tap the carb it won’t stop leaking. Any help would be great. Thanks
Running into a strange problem with my old ’95 TRX300FW. Whenever I try to start it with the electric starter, the engine cranks but never fires – it’ll crank until it kills the battery with nothing but an occasional ear-shattering (literally, rifle-shot loud) backfire. Choke on, choke off, 3-4 hits on the carb primer, same thing every time. However, if I try to start it with the kickstarter, it will fire right up on the first or second kick (regardless of whether I try starting it with the electric starter before the kickstarter or not). This happens regardless of the ambient temperature.
Starter solenoid is new, battery is relatively (~2 years) old, carb has been pulled and cleaned, spark plug is brand new (old one wasn’t fouled and looked fine, but I replaced it since it was out), idles dead-nuts even when it’s running. Tends to bog for 2-3 seconds when hitting the throttle while cold, but that goes away as soon as it gets rolling.
Running into a strange problem with my old ’95 TRX300FW. Whenever I try to start it with the electric starter, the engine cranks but never fires – it’ll crank until it kills the battery with nothing but an occasional ear-shattering (literally, rifle-shot loud) backfire. Choke on, choke off, 3-4 hits on the carb primer, same thing every time. However, if I try to start it with the kickstarter, it will fire right up on the first or second kick (regardless of whether I try starting it with the electric starter before the kickstarter or not). This happens regardless of the ambient temperature.
Starter solenoid is new, battery is relatively (~2 years) old, carb has been pulled and cleaned, spark plug is brand new (old one wasn’t fouled and looked fine, but I replaced it since it was out), idles dead-nuts even when it’s running. Tends to bog for 2-3 seconds when hitting the throttle while cold, but that goes away as soon as it gets rolling.
