My petcock leaked thru the handle so bought a replacement inner gasket thinking it might be the only replaceable part. The kit came with two screws to replace the rivets. I drilled out the rivets before realizing I used a larger diameter bit than the kit screws came with. Cut off the rivet heads and disassembled the petcock–here’s what to see.
The rotating positioning piece of the petcock contacts the gasket and directs flow from the main or reserve pipe, or to a blocked position for OFF. I’ve cleaned up the parts but also noticed a grooved oring on the positioned I hope this doesn’t become a problem. Also the new gasket is a smaller diameter than the old one.
I recently acquired my first 400ex and I’m having an issue. When I got the quad it was running but it was burning oil bad, leaking from the head gasket and was ticking pretty bad. I figured no big deal I bought it cheap so I’ll rebuild the top end and adjust valves. Well I finished my rebuild and it fired right up but still clicks bad. So I took the valve cover off and adjusted them again just to make sure I didn’t make a mistake. It still does it. While I was doing the rebuild and put it back together I physically felt the chain tensioner engage and everything felt tight. What am I missing… I would say the clicking is just as loud as before the rebuild and sounds like it’s in the top end. I would prefer to not just throw parts at it as I’m doing pretty good budget wise on it and can still bail if something is seriously wrong. What are your thoughts? I’ll try to post a video
It’s winter so I’m working on rebuilding some parts on my 1987 Big Bear 350. Got it from my uncle this past summer for nothing. Sat around for a while then I began to play with it. I don’t have any pics of it prior to tearing it down except this one.
First I experienced a small, occasional clunk noise. Quickly found out that gas was entering the crankcase and flooding the engine- pretty much turned my oil into gas. Carburetor rebuild is on my list. Worse problems were soon to come, with an oil leak at the transfer gear and middle gear drive. At first it smelled like gas, which led me to believe that it ruined the seal on the transfer gear.
I found it a whole lot easier to remove the entire engine. Getting the middle gear and transfer gear out was impossible with the engine still in; the drive shaft splines are rusted into the transfer gear yoke. I’m not gonna be rebuilding the engine as it was running amazing prior to the tear down. The focus will be on the drive train, rear-end, and carburetor.
Of course when I removed the middle gear cover, I slipped and put a small hole through the casing. Was thinking about JB Welding it, but I believe I can pick one up for $30.
The S.O.B. causing me tons of problems.
Was able to open up the transfer gear case after removing the final drive u-joints and yoke. Found it particularly easier for being my first u-joint ever. It was a pain to remove the circlips as they were on the inside rather than the outside. The inside looks great.
U-joint, o-ring and shims (that of course split cause they were rotted) from the middle gear drive.
I was making good progress until I went to tackle the lower u-joint on the transfer gear. It will not budge. I use the hammer/socket method since I don’t have access to a press. Any ideas how I can get this sob to break loose? I’m thinking heating it up…
Looking forward to some input and advice from you guys as I progress with my rebuild!
It’s winter so I’m working on rebuilding some parts on my 1987 Big Bear 350. Got it from my uncle this past summer for nothing. Sat around for a while then I began to play with it. I don’t have any pics of it prior to tearing it down except this one.
First I experienced a small, occasional clunk noise. Quickly found out that gas was entering the crankcase and flooding the engine- pretty much turned my oil into gas. Carburetor rebuild is on my list. Worse problems were soon to come, with an oil leak at the transfer gear and middle gear drive. At first it smelled like gas, which led me to believe that it ruined the seal on the transfer gear.
I found it a whole lot easier to remove the entire engine. Getting the middle gear and transfer gear out was impossible with the engine still in; the drive shaft splines are rusted into the transfer gear yoke. I’m not gonna be rebuilding the engine as it was running amazing prior to the tear down. The focus will be on the drive train, rear-end, and carburetor.
Of course when I removed the middle gear cover, I slipped and put a small hole through the casing. Was thinking about JB Welding it, but I believe I can pick one up for $30.
The S.O.B. causing me tons of problems.
Was able to open up the transfer gear case after removing the final drive u-joints and yoke. Found it particularly easier for being my first u-joint ever. It was a pain to remove the circlips as they were on the inside rather than the outside. The inside looks great.
U-joint, o-ring and shims (that of course split cause they were rotted) from the middle gear drive.
I was making good progress until I went to tackle the lower u-joint on the transfer gear. It will not budge. I use the hammer/socket method since I don’t have access to a press. Any ideas how I can get this sob to break loose? I’m thinking heating it up…
Looking forward to some input and advice from you guys as I progress with my rebuild!
Hey all, I’ve been lurking around these forums for a while. Finally will introduce myself. I’m a farm boy from Canada, currently enrolled in motive power programs at college. I have a 1987 Big Bear 350 that will be getting a drive train rebuild (there will be a topic in the Big Bear subforum). Looking forward to spring and summer, mudding and touring on the bikes and quads. My other toy is a 1977 Honda XL125. Can’t wait to learn some new stuff and share my rebuild with you guys!
Hey all, I’ve been lurking around these forums for a while. Finally will introduce myself. I’m a farm boy from Canada, currently enrolled in motive power programs at college. I have a 1987 Big Bear 350 that will be getting a drive train rebuild (there will be a topic in the Big Bear subforum). Looking forward to spring and summer, mudding and touring on the bikes and quads. My other toy is a 1977 Honda XL125. Can’t wait to learn some new stuff and share my rebuild with you guys!
As I was trailering my ATV back to my house after having out at my hunting lease for the season, something must have happened. Now my 2014 Honda Rancher 420 EPS is tilting and my right front suspension seems to be locked up. It doesn’t have any play like it used to. I am attaching some pictures. Any help would be appreciated.
