Broke the rear diff case in my 09 renegade 800x. Wondering what the best option would be to fix it. OEM rear diff? Also was told to look into a rear diff from a maverick 1000. But i’m not to sure if it would fit? Any suggestions or advice would be great. Just got into atvs here recently.
lovin my grizzly 700
adjusted the rear shocks to the lightest setting and it is a beast in the snow
cant wait till the lake locks up so i can do some fishing
i want to take it to some small back lakes and get some rainbows
they have more snow up there but after today i feel confident that it will be ok lol
what are some of your settings for deep snow riding
i have 14in rims
sti 28in mud somthings
1mm shim mod
in low range it is a tank nice and slow no spin :smile2:
thanks guys
g
I bought a 2001 Traxter 5 speed about 2 weeks ago and it seemed to drive fine. It has a set of tracks on it and I could put in in high and shift through the gears manually (when i switched to auto, the engine would rev but bike would not move.) I could go through the snow, up hills all seemed with no problem.
Well it started to lose power/drive but engine would still rev just tranny would slow and bike would stop.
Now it will only roll a foot or so in high gear and if I put it in low it will go better, did get it up to 3rd gear but would still lose speed and stop but the engine keeps revving.
is this a slipping clutch or could it be something else?
I did notice before this that it seemed that when throttling up the bike would move slowly and then all of a sudden it would catch and would take off.
I have downloaded a manual and have been reading through that.
I was thinking of trying to run the diagnostic/calibration and have read that the jumper is just a wire so i was looking for the connector and I think I found it but it has 3 wires in and 1 wire out, is that right? I thought it would have 2 wires.
Also noticed that the mileage does not show anymore as it did when I bought it. 1700km/mile not sure
Thanks for any help and feel free to ask for any info.
Also using BRP 4 stroke synthetic oil and just did a oil change and no diffence.
Hi everyone. I’m new to the forum so I apologize if this is a repeat thread. Have a 2010 sportsman 850 touring. Basically stock other then lighting windscreen etc. I want to put an aggressive tire on it just not sure how big I can go without lifting it or needing a clutch kit??? Also is a clutch kit worth doing regardless. Have never once had an issue with this quad other then the shitty factory Polaris winch. Thanks for any feedback.
The sportsman 400 i just picked up is missing the upper steering bushing. I was doing some research and saw that some other year sportsman have used a greasable sway-bar bushing. Has anyone done this on a year compatible with mine? What part number did you use?
I have spark, new coil, new spark, good compression, have a new carburetor with clean jets, new gas in the tank and tried spraying starting fluid in it. don’t have a battery in it because I’m trying to just use the kick start, which grabs fine. everything is grounded fine and plugged where. needs to be on the regulator and the cdi. the only problem I’m having is the stator is not reading on the volt meter what it should be, it is not starting and I can’t figure out if it would be the stator or the timing???? help please.
I have a 1998 TRX300 2×4 and the starter went out. I got the starter installed without any problems but when I re-assemble the left side crank case something is causing it to bind up. I can hit the starter button before I finish tightening down the bolts and it turns fine but as soon as I get everything tight, the starter is not able to turn the gears. It actually binds up while the bolts still have threads showing. I have tried 5 or 6 times and I also checked the diagram and everything seems to be going together correctly. Everything spins easily when I turn them by hand before I install the cover. Any ideas or suggestions? The bearing seems to be spinning easily as I checked that last time out. It seems something is just a bit off causing it to bind up when tight.
I have an 850 touring. After about 3 years of pushing around rock and snow the belt started to slip. I went to the dealer to get a belt and noticed the original belt number was 3211123 but had been changed to 3211160 . When I went to swap them the new belt was thicker . I figured it’s a heavy duty version so no problem . Ever since I put the belt on its hard to shift. Shifts great in park with motor off, shifts good when you start it and out of park . After that shifts hard. If I turn it off it shifts easy again. Pulled the belt cover off and when you first start it the belt doesn’t turn. Once you power it up the belt engages but never stops spinning even when you put it back in park and let it idle. I think that’s why it’s harder to shift.
Anyone run into this problem?
If I have to run this wider belt what adjustment do I need to make to the clutch to get it work right ?