All posts by dstech

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Testing a stator

I have been watching you-tube on how to test a stator but the ones that they are testing in the video has 3 wires and my stator has 5 wires coming out of the engine. 3 wires that go to 1 Plug and the 2 other wires that go to another Plug. I’m assuming not use the Plug that has 2 wires. Is that correct? When testing the 3 wires with my meter turned too ohms I’m getting 5 ohms when touching A to B wire but no ohms while touching A to C and C to B wire. Also when I touch A with the black probe and touch the block with the red probe I’m getting OL reading also the same reading with the B wire but while touching the C wire with black probe and touching the block with the red probe I’m getting a reading of 177. This is on a 2000 honda Recon 250
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07 outlander speedometer upgrade

About 6 months ago I drug out of the weeds an 07 Outlander. A neighbor had just parked it when it quit running. I have put a lot of time and $ in it. Rebuilt engine, etc. Got it running but the speedometer does not work and no display (does light up). Found one off an 08 and would like to install. I read somewhere that it should work, need to change some wires around? Will I have to have it reprogrammed? Any help would be appreciated.
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GAGrizzLee 2016 Grizzly EPS Build

I have really enjoyed other members documenting their builds on here, so I wanted to do the same. This will not be the most extensive build, but I will do my best to give my thoughts and details on each part.

Here is what I have added thus far:
– EHS Racing EFI Controller
– 2R Racing Power Tip
– 28x10x12 / 28x12x12 Maxxis Zillas
– ITP SS212 Black Rims

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2014 scrambler blowing smoke

Hey my 2014 scrambler xp 850 blowing blue smoke burning a quart of oil every time I take her out on the weekend, I have 170 hours since I bought her new. My question is what parts do I need to buy? The compression is fine one cylender is burning oil, does any one have part number for what I need? Mechanic says bring the parts and he can replace rings. Any help would be great.
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2006 Ranger 700 XP Rebuilt, Oil on top of pistons

I have a 2006 Ranger 700 XP with 1000 hrs. My problems started from an oil pressure issue- it blew the seal on the filter, which created a knock. Took it into my local dealer, and they fixed the oil pressure relief valve, but didn’t notice the knock. They also replaced the TPS and TBAP, as well as some other things that needed attention.

Took machine home, and the knock was back, as soon as I pulled it off the trailer. Took machine back to the dealer, and they diagnosed it with a rod knock. Purchased a rebuild kit from Hot Rods (Crankshaft, pistons/rings (Namura), and all gaskets/seals. Removed engine and tore down. Cylinders didn’t appear to be damaged, heads were not warped. No metal in crankcase. Confirmed rod knock- driver side rod had obvious play (horizontal and vertical). Removed gaskets completely, and cleaned everything up (carb cleaner and elbow grease. Cleaned valve side of head, but didn’t remove or re-seat valves.

Re-Assembled engine following service manual, with the exception of replacing valve seals. Filled oil filter to 3/4 with oil, primed oil pump, and put the rest of the oil (2 qts) into engine. Filled coolant and bled system.

Engine started great. Let idle while I checked for leaks, then took it for a short drive (2 blocks, @ 10 mph). There was a cloud of smoke behind me. Slowly returned to garage. Checked coolant level and oil level, which both seemed fine. Let machine idle and noticed oil droplets on floor under exhaust.

Pulled the spark plugs and could see a small amount of what appears to be oil on piston heads, and plug on passenger side was wet. Thought it might have been oil from assembly, so put plugs back in and started/idled for 5-10 minutes. Pulled plugs again, and there seemed to be more oil on piston heads than before.

Pulled plugs and did a compression check. 140 on both cylinders. Checked oil level again, but since the oil was so clear/new, I couldn’t tell of the level dropped. Oil does not appear to have coolant in it. Coolant level is stable, and looks good- I did have to add to the reservoir a couple times, but stable since.

I’m no mechanic, but this is what I’m thinking:
1.) I have a blown gasket that is allowing oil into both cylinders, but no coolant, which seems unlikely.
2.) I have two bad valve seals.
3.) There are piston ring/seating issues. I still have the old pistons, and am considering putting them back in, with new rings.

Before I pull the valve cover and head, replace valve seals, gaskets, pistons and rings, and reassemble, I thought I would get some opinions to help diagnose.

Anyone else run into this, or have any suggestions?