Hey guys and gal’s. Just figure maybe i can save someone else the headache i just went through of claying the topend for clearance to find out my wiseco 87mm 11:1 piston is NOT clearanced for +1mm valves. I have a magnum cam but the depth of the pocket isnt the issue anyway. The edge of the valve will hit the piston if not machined to work. Feel free to chime in with any other technical data or things that need machined to work to hopefully save someone the extra work. Feeling really glad i did my homework on this one for sure!

I bought a 2003 400ex today. Was told it had less then 100 hours on it, was sitting for over half a year. it fired right up and I drove it around the block, it backfired and bogged out a little but I figured since it sat so long it was the carb so I bought it anyway because it looked so new. Well I have torn the carb apart and soaked it sprayed out the jets and everything and it will only idle or run on choke and when I take it off it stalls in a few seconds. This is really making me mad because it took me months to save for a 400ex. Do you guys have any advice? It is greatly appreciated. Air fuel screw is 2.5 times out like it should be

Hey guys. Pretty new here, just got done with my project so I thought I would share.

Built from 1/2 and 3/4 sanded plywood.
2 infinity reference 5.25 coax (free… Will replace when they fail from mud and water)
Boss 200w 2ch amp
Coated in rustoleum bed liner inside and out( wasn’t impressed at all)

First off, I knew I wanted some tunes and some storage. Never really liked the pvc tubes, and couldnt find a front box i liked and would allow me to mount speakers where I wanted.

So I build one. It’s only 4" tall on the inside, I had to make it short so it would block all the light from my rigid d2 between my handlebars. Still gives me room for some straps, shackles, and tie downs. And holds the speakers and amp.

It gets surprisingly loud. I’m using a boss bluetooth remote on the handlebars. Works great, keep my phone in my pocket and control it from the handlebar. Running WOT and radio turned all the way up I can hardly hear any wind or engine noise, just good tunes!

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2013 renegade 1000 when i turn the key all the way over like normal to start is dash comes on fuel pump does not hit the start button nothing at all turn it 1 click back to light they do not come on but the fuel pump makes the cound when the key turns but does it over and over until you turn the key off and starter button still does nothing at all tried all relays and both keys

Hi all!
This summer I finally purchased the ATV I’ve always wanted: a 2011 Outlander Max 650 XT.

I was in the market for an 800 XT (non-max), but this one came up at auction for a price I couldn’t turn down. Being a former provincial vehicle it didn’t see any off-road abuse, or much use at all really. Part of what drew me in was the 2700 KM on the ODO. What I didn’t realize until I brought it home was all the idling it saw.

Now at 3300 KMs, it burns enough oil to notice a drop between oil changes, and has a small tick I’m suspecting is a work timing chain guide. Not a big deal, I have lots of time before the start of the season to tear everything down, and it was cheap enough I don’t mind putting a little money in. That’s not why I’m bothering you fine people today.

I found a complete top end off a 1000 for sale locally, and the seller is willing to part with the low milage pistons and cylinders for a good price. After some research I’m finding that these pistons and cylinders would convert my motor to basically a stock 800. Since I’m tearing things down anyway, I figure I might as well upgrade. The only problem is providing additional fuel.

I’m looking for stock 800 numbers/tuning, but I’m having trouble finding a tuner that will convert my ECU to basically a stock 800 ECU, and used ECU prices seem ridiculous.

Are there any tuners that could do this, or would my best bet be to hold out for a good deal on a used ECU?

Thanks!

Hi all… Just picked up a 2017 Sportsman 570 EPS (Camo) this past Friday. This is my second ATV and my first Polaris. I rode a 2006 Honda 400ex for several years and have been without an atv for about 3 years. I wanted something to use for hunting, leisurely trail riding, and getting my and some equipment to my bee hives.

I shopped around a bit but just kept coming back to Polaris as I felt they offered the most features for the money, and I really liked the looks of them.

I’ve only got two short days of riding in, and it was really sloppy mud, but I’m pretty happy so far. My only real complaints are the stock tires, which don’t seem to do too well on muddy hill descents with the engine breaking and they didn’t clean out very well… but I knew I was going to upgrade those soon anyways. (Probably Bearclaw HTR’s).
My second complaint is the hard shifting, which seems to be somewhat of a common issue. The first day I had it out, it was a bear. Today, after some riding, it seemed to have improved a good bit. I figure I’ll try to ride it a bit and if doesn’t get any better, I’ll take it in and see if they need to put the shims in it maybe. If it continues to improve, I’ll hope it’s just from being new… I dunno. Time will tell.

I think my future plans are new tires, build a box for the back rack, and adding a winch. I really like that KFI stealth 3500 with synthetic… but will try to find some reviews on those first.

Anyways, happy to be here!

Ok here goes I need some serious help. I just tore my 850 do down and put new bearings in. I put everything back together using my service manual. Took a few minutes once I got it back together but it started up no issues. Today I went out and it would not start. I worked all day and it finally started. Fast forward a few hours and it won’t start. I think it may be a few pump issue and here’s why. When I first turn the key you will hear the pump and it will pump gas out for a few seconds. When I turn the key the pump will not pump and the engine just tries to start but won’t turn over. I have spark so that’s not the issue. Any ideas?

Both inboard boots on my 05 Rancher need to be replaced. I’ve removed the right, front axle and have a couple of questions:

1) There is something called a snap ring (42206-HA7-671) that goes on the end of the shaft that is inserted into the differential. What happens to this snap ring when I pull the axle out? Does it fly across the room? I can’t seem to find it.

2) To separate the inboard joint, I need to remove something called a stopper ring (42206-HM7-003). How do I do that? Do I need a special tool? Maybe a dental pick??

Thanks in advance. I’ll have more questions as I make more progress.

I bought a 2011 big bear 400 IRS just over a month ago. I got it with the rear removed because the guy had a mechanic remove the rear diff because it was bad. After putting it back together there was two wires (one yellow and one black color) that were just hanging next to the engine. they go into a wire harness that gets routed between the gas tank and the air box then from what i see goes up to the handle bars. if anyone could help me i would greatly appreciate it. its been an interesting project.

Hey guys my rear wheels are leaning in on Roland was wondering what would be causing it.

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