I want to get some new tires, can some 27X9-12 fit in the front and 27X11-12 fit in the rear with stock rims on a 2016 grizzly 700? EDIT: They’re ITP Mega Mayhem, if that mattered.

How do i change them and how hard are they to change? They are located where the swingarm meets the frame of the atv. I notice when i ride and hit a bump(quite often) it gives off a knock from behind the engine and when i park it on cement and rock side to side i can feel the play in the bushings.

I have a 01 honda rancher and the neutral light is going out during cranking not allowing the atv to fire the spark plug

I am wiring in a light bar on my scrambler and am using a separate switch to turn it off and on. I am wondering what is the best place to pull my live from. Just splice off my outlet? I would like it to be on the backside of the Key so it will shut off with key.

Thank you

Hello to all. New guy to the forum.
Reason why I’m asking is because I came across a 2008 420 used cylinder on ebay for cheap and somehow lost my original cylinder for the ’14 during my move. What really sucks is that before all this I ordered a piston kit one size up from HO. So not really trying to buy a brand new cylinder, trying to find one that I can just bore out. Please help!

Hello to all. New guy to the forum.
Reason why I’m asking is because I came across a 2008 420 used cylinder on ebay for cheap and somehow lost my original cylinder for the ’14 during my move. What really sucks is that before all this I ordered a piston kit one size up from HO. So not really trying to buy a brand new cylinder, trying to find one that I can just bore out. Please help!

Just bought the tools to change the water pump seal or rotary seal plus the oil seal behind it, total bill 138.07 it’s not itemized but about 35 bucks for the pusher plate 43.00 bucks for the water pump seal plate and then the rotary seal plus oil seal adds up to 138.07, I still have to get the four screws plus nut and washer to complete the job. I’m looking at the rotary seal and it slides over the shaft, but inside the seal there is no rubber ring or anything at all to prevent fluid from passing into weeping hole cavity, I’m wondering if this is why so many can am are leaking. I’ve seen rotaty seals at work and they all have some sort of seal on the inside that slips over the shaft, seems really cheap compared to crane seals or other industry pump seals. Asked the parts guy if this is common to wear out and he said to common. After all I only have 800 miles and around 125 hours of light use. Anyways I cannot see how the seal" seals on the shaft", but I can see how fluid can gets between the shaft and seal because its just metal on metal. Maybe i’m missing something here……. in the design of the seal but I will ask an engineer buddy if knows how it seals. No if the dealer here in Canada was to do the job he wants another 2.5 hours plus new antifreeze you are looking at over 400.00cnd, hard to believe, and they wonder why the shop service area is almost empty, everyone is trying to do it there selves. We should all send BRP a letter saying the Chinese machines are better because I know one guy who has one and he has not had these seal problems at all.

Just bought the tools to change the water pump seal or rotary seal plus the oil seal behind it, total bill 138.07 it’s not itemized but about 35 bucks for the pusher plate 43.00 bucks for the water pump seal plate and then the rotary seal plus oil seal adds up to 138.07, I still have to get the four screws plus nut and washer to complete the job. I’m looking at the rotary seal and it slides over the shaft, but inside the seal there is no rubber ring or anything at all to prevent fluid from passing into weeping hole cavity, I’m wondering if this is why so many can am are leaking. I’ve seen rotaty seals at work and they all have some sort of seal on the inside that slips over the shaft, seems really cheap compared to crane seals or other industry pump seals. Asked the parts guy if this is common to wear out and he said to common. After all I only have 800 miles and around 125 hours of light use. Anyways I cannot see how the seal" seals on the shaft", but I can see how fluid can gets between the shaft and seal because its just metal on metal. Maybe i’m missing something here……. in the design of the seal but I will ask an engineer buddy if knows how it seals. No if the dealer here in Canada was to do the job he wants another 2.5 hours plus new antifreeze you are looking at over 400.00cnd, hard to believe, and they wonder why the shop service area is almost empty, everyone is trying to do it there selves. We should all send BRP a letter saying the Chinese machines are better because I know one guy who has one and he has not had these seal problems at all.

Hey guys my 13 850 xp sportsman is not idling correctly it bounces between 1000-1300 and when you accelerate a little it backfires and sounds like it’s running on one cylinder. No check engine light no smoking no engine knock any ideas? I checked the plugs they look good bike only has 100hrs any help is appreciated

Lots of you guys advised to get new tires but I sort of shrugged it off as I already thought "its good enough" and I will try when the stockers wear down a bit.

Well I ride on a lot of sloppy rocky trails and ended up puncturing a tire and by the time I got home it was nearly flat. Hole was in the side and it just didn’t seem like a good idea to plug it so I came on here and did some research. Went with the maxxis bighorn tires in 26×9-12 and 26×12-12. They are a little wider and offer more protection for the wheels although its too late for that as mine are already all chewed up.

I was impressed by the tires when I first saw them. Super aggressive compared to stock. It wasn’t until the tire shop gave me back by original tires when I noticed how squishy and weak they felt. I know the Bighorn’s are tough and thats exactly why I went for them.

Anyways no real feedback just yet but I plan to update when I have some riding time on them.

**Anyone know what will remove the blue lettering?**