Dyno set for Friday 4-22 to get the 450 done! Should have some numbers by Monday morning for everyone if all goes well. Once finished we can retune your stock ECU to the finalized tune and send it back to you to plug in and run. We do all the timing and fueling optimization in the ECU so you don’t need to run a piggy back tuner like a power commander or Dobeck. Along with removing throttle, speed, and torque limiters and more.

So, seeing as this thing makes 30hp stock at the motor, I’m guessing about 22hp at the wheels stock. Going to have a little contest to see how close you guys can get to the final tuned number. Winner will get an RVS Hockey hoodie and sticker pack.

Let the guesses begin…..

Going to stick with the 27s I had for my RZR. Pick up only, shipping is a fortune. Located in Western MA. $425 or best offer. Thanks

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/snw/5539517850.html

i have 2012 outlander 800 R xt efi and my tail light bulbs got hot and melted housing and bulb fell out and shorted blowing a 10 A fuse and sent me in limp mode! Then it just completely quit last trip then i jiggled the tail light wires and all came back on. Is there any way to completely bypass my tail lights because i dont ride around others and had blacked them out any way….please help and thank you!!!

I have an ’05 800 EFI sportsman that I recently diagnosed has a bad one way clutch bearing. This in and of itself sucks simply because it’s the first thing I haven’t been able to fix myself, so I will be pulling the clutch off and taking it to the dealer to have the bearing replaced . Anyway, while looking at clutch alignment I also noticed the belt is not riding in the center of the bearing. The motor mounts are all pushed to the far side, and I think bringing it back to the middle of the adjustment range would get it where it supposed to be. I discovered I have one broken front motor mount which I’m replacing, but for the life of me even when all three mounts are loose I can’t budge the motor. I obviously don’t want to tear anything up, so any tips on getting the motor to move back to the midpoint? Is there another mount or something I need to loosen that I missing? Any help or advice appreciated.

I’ll start off by saying what the problem is and what I have done.

4×4 or AWD always seems to be on.

I have disassembled the front diff and nothing seems amiss.
Hillard clutch assemble is fine, cage intact and nothing obvious broken.
flushed and refilled the the front diff and it seemed to be working until this weekend.
back to 4×4 all the time.

does anybody know what the coil resistance should be at the plug ??

The switch seems to work as is should, the indicator goes on and off with the switch and well as the diagnostics screen shows the switch working.

I’ve kind of run out of ideas and a little stumped.
its a very simple system.
anybody else have any other ideas ??

Did somebody know how to erace the code on the pod ?

I went in the wood last saturday and after when i came back the engine light and EPS came on , i look at the fuse of the esp everything ok , i dont know the problem can you help me please !!

Blklab and I hooked up Saturday for a great day of riding. He swung by and picked me up at 06:15 and by 07:00 we were at the Country Cafe chowing down on some good breakfast! We then proceeded to ST Joe state park. It was awesome weather, cool and sunny in the am and reached mid 70s later on. This was my first ride of the season, but more importantly it was Blklabs first ride on his brand new 15 700 Grizz!!! This was his first ATV trail riding in a year! Last time we rode together was Easter last year when he still had his AC 400 and we haven’t ridden together since until Saturday due to an injury he had on the job.

Anyway we had a great day! Couldn’t get him to quit smiling,
so I’m pretty sure he likes the new Grizz. :icon_ goofy:

Here’s Blklab on his maiden voyage.

And a few more pics.