so I just picked up a 2012 800efi went to start it and click and all power out wiggled red battery wire and power back on and it starts fine once its running no issues. acts like a weak battery but its not that thing cranks over with ease after you mess with cable. just wondering if those solenoids go bad often I checked connections all seem tight I messed with it a bunch of times and it now starts fine but very suspicious of that solenoid. I am gonna clean all contacts and see what happens. Just wanted to know if those solenoids go out a lot.

Never been much of an internal combustion mechanic, though I’ve always been somewhat handy with my wings, Just not a fan of working on vehicles…that said, I recently had my ’03 Polaris in the shop for a very expensive radiator cap and mechanical seal, I thought I needed a head gasket, and didn’t want to touch that job…Was aware my battery wasn’t charging, I’d just put it on the charger every other time I used it( already replaced battery). No biggie, I’m not a trail rider (yet), bought it to plow my driveway after bypass surgery—shoveling wasn’t an option. Anyway, they told me I needed a stator, and quoted $750-ish, on top of the over-priced radiator cap. Irritating, to say the least. And so I went to the inter-web, and found this place. Downloaded a service manual, made a few checks. I didn’t need a stator, I needed a voltage regulator. $18.88 on Amazon, plus tax- no shipping, because I also ordered brake parts for my lady’s car. A bit of frustration dealing with 13 year old bolts and screws that were quite content where they were, and preferred breaking off, rather than unscrewing. After 3 or 4 of those, I got tired of drilling out the broken ones, and got out my MAPP gas torch. What a great help that was! Anyway, she’s back together with some new hardware, and I’m well pleased with saving $730. Not so very happy with the dealer, though–but, they’re likely to see a lot less of me, now. Thanks, polarisatvforums!

easiest way to do an alignment on an atv:

place the quad on level ground and break all 4 tie rod adjusting nuts loose. the rods must NOT have any bends in them or endplay in the ends, replace as necessary. also make sure the steering stem nut is fully tightened, this will allow the collar that holds the inner tie rod ends to wobble throwing your steering adjustment off and cause front end shaking.

take a string and tie it to the front bumper TEMPORARILY. take said string and run it around the center (across the axle nut section) of all four tires and tie the string as tight as possible to itself.

take 2 straps and run from your handlebar grips to your back rack (or rear bumper on sport quads). take a tape measure and measure from the back rack or rear bumper to the handlebar end caps, make this measurement even (example 32" on both sides) and make sure the straps are SNUG, NOT TIGHT. tight straps will bend the handlebars throwing your measurements off. your handlebars are now completely straight as compared to the frame, this can only be done if your rear rack/rear bumper is not bent or otherwise compromised. on units with a center headlight (newer TRX500 owners pay attention do not line up your handlebars with the headlamp, do it with a tape measure. the headlamp points to the right slightly from the factory with the bars straight.

now pay attention to the string as the backside of the front tires and the front side of the rear tires contact the string. screw your tie rods in or out to achieve an even setting. if your rear tires are wider than the front, you want the string to touch the front of the rear tires and approximately 1/8th inch gap between the string and the backside of the rear tire. this will give you a slight toe out if you go further than this. if you screw the tie rod the other way and the backside of the front tire contacts the string but the front of the rear tire has a gap, you are toed in. use the gaps (or lack thereof) as a way to make sure the left and right tires are toed in or out evenly and properly. when the desired result is achieved, check your handlebar measurements and make sure they did not move. if they are correct, tighten the lock nuts and remove the straps and test ride.

if you want your tires completely straight and set it with no gap on either tire, after adjusting the tie rods put the bike in REVERSE and tap the throttle in gear. the bike should roll backwards approximately 15 feet without steering the handlebars. if it pulls to one side that side is toed in, screw it in to pull the front of the tire out more.

remember, toe in is better for straightline stability at speed with less steering ability, toe out is less straight line stability but increased turning ability (most 4wd vehicles are slightly toed out from the factory for this reason.)

this method will NOT work on machines with uneven wheels spacers, uneven tracks (front end wider than the rear axle) or mixed rims with different offsets. it WILL work with factory rims and tires or overside wheels and tires FOR THAT APPLICATION (i.e. solid axle rear tires and rims wider than the front, the track or front and rear width is the even/same measurement.) can you return your machine to stock spacing and rims, set the steering and reinstall the spacers etc.? yes you can, however understand the other changes you just make will also affect your handling.

easiest way to do an alignment on an atv:

place the quad on level ground and break all 4 tie rod adjusting nuts loose. the rods must NOT have any bends in them or endplay in the ends, replace as necessary. also make sure the steering stem nut is fully tightened, this will allow the collar that holds the inner tie rod ends to wobble throwing your steering adjustment off and cause front end shaking.

take a string and tie it to the front bumper TEMPORARILY. take said string and run it around the center (across the axle nut section) of all four tires and tie the string as tight as possible to itself.

take 2 straps and run from your handlebar grips to your back rack (or rear bumper on sport quads). take a tape measure and measure from the back rack or rear bumper to the handlebar end caps, make this measurement even (example 32" on both sides) and make sure the straps are SNUG, NOT TIGHT. tight straps will bend the handlebars throwing your measurements off. your handlebars are now completely straight as compared to the frame, this can only be done if your rear rack/rear bumper is not bent or otherwise compromised. on units with a center headlight (newer TRX500 owners pay attention do not line up your handlebars with the headlamp, do it with a tape measure. the headlamp points to the right slightly from the factory with the bars straight.

now pay attention to the string as the backside of the front tires and the front side of the rear tires contact the string. screw your tie rods in or out to achieve an even setting. if your rear tires are wider than the front, you want the string to touch the front of the rear tires and approximately 1/8th inch gap between the string and the backside of the rear tire. this will give you a slight toe out if you go further than this. if you screw the tie rod the other way and the backside of the front tire contacts the string but the front of the rear tire has a gap, you are toed in. use the gaps (or lack thereof) as a way to make sure the left and right tires are toed in or out evenly and properly. when the desired result is achieved, check your handlebar measurements and make sure they did not move. if they are correct, tighten the lock nuts and remove the straps and test ride.

if you want your tires completely straight and set it with no gap on either tire, after adjusting the tie rods put the bike in REVERSE and tap the throttle in gear. the bike should roll backwards approximately 15 feet without steering the handlebars. if it pulls to one side that side is toed in, screw it in to pull the front of the tire out more.

remember, toe in is better for straightline stability at speed with less steering ability, toe out is less straight line stability but increased turning ability (most 4wd vehicles are slightly toed out from the factory for this reason.)

this method will NOT work on machines with uneven wheels spacers, uneven tracks (front end wider than the rear axle) or mixed rims with different offsets. it WILL work with factory rims and tires or overside wheels and tires FOR THAT APPLICATION (i.e. solid axle rear tires and rims wider than the front, the track or front and rear width is the even/same measurement.) can you return your machine to stock spacing and rims, set the steering and reinstall the spacers etc.? yes you can, however understand the other changes you just make will also affect your handling.

Hey all. I have a 1994 Polaris Sportsman 400 4×4. It has around 950 miles on it, all original. It hasn’t been run much or hard at all, just up and down some residential streets where old owners lived. It starts right up good, every now and then it smokes but it’s a 2 stroke so I’m not too worried about that. It is making a ticking noise, I’m not sure if it could just be a loose bolt but wanted to get opinions on it on where to check. Attached is a video, you can hear it in the video. I’m new to ATVs, this may be normal, I have no idea.
https://vimeo.com/163898263

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What’s up everyone I’m Kyle. I’m new to Polaris as well as ATVs in general really. Little backstory I got a little 90CC Chinese atv free from a friend, fixed it up got it running rode it for a couple days and knew I wanted something bigger. I searched for about a month, finally found one I bought. I got a 1994 Polaris Sportsman 400 4×4. I’m the third owner, it is all original (first two owners used it very little) even the tires are original. It has 960 or so miles on it. Looking forward to being part of a new community.

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What’s up everyone! I have dove back in to the wheeler crowd and did it hard haha
I used to ride a 600 scrambler and I thought that was a beast… as soon as I got it off the trailer it left 30ft skid marks (I was expecting it to pick up the front end)

Got to figure out this shock adjustment now, any pointers?

Anywhoo

Side note, got the dealer to put "WeakSauce" instead of my name and he looked at me funny and said "uhh, this thing ain’t weak"

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So looking into my no start issue. The solenoid clicks when I try to start, it does nothing else. The 2 little wires on top both have juice when I try to start (orange/black goes to the clutch switch and the little black relay thing. White/red goes to start button) Looking at the solenoid, left terminal has red from the battery and the 3 wires from the regulator and the ignition. Right terminal has the wire from the starter. Can anyone post pic of their wiring?

I bought the atv listed in the subject line. The motor wouldn’t turn over so I started checking it tonight. I removed the cover for the timing chain and the chain was very loose. To the extent that it had gouged the case in a couple of places. I put a socket on it and it turn right over and the engine wasn’t seized anymore. Now I either need to tighten the timing chain ( doesn’t look worn) or replace it. I also need to know how to time it now, I figure the chain skipped while it was this loose.

Any help appreciated.

Bob

I sold my 14 maverick xmr and bought me a 2016 650xmr. I really don’t have a good place to ride the maverick, all the trails are too narrow and I creek ride a lot where the Mav wouldn’t fit. It’s funny I bought the Mav as a leftover and a really good deal, but even then I was looking at the 650xmr.

I can’t believe how much power the 650 has it’s smooth as silk and seems way faster than the Mav was. I swapped over my gbc mongrels and sti wheels, they are 30s and rub a little but I may trim it out. I use them to save the mud tires your when we go riding in mud. Anyway here is a teaser pic.

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