Hi all,
Looking for some help on a starting issue for my sons 2000 Polaris TrailBlazer 250. Most of the time it’s very hard to start and many times it just will not start. Occasionally it will just pop right off on cold start but not too often. Once it does start it runs perfectly. The carb has been cleaned multiple times and I also installed a new carb kit. The plug is new and has nice blue spark. The compression was under 100 psi so put a new Wiseco piston and ring kit in it with all new gaskets. Had the cylinder honed and the head resurfaced by the local machine shop. It was never bored out and the cylinder and head looked about perfect prior to the honing. This original piston and rings also looked good but since it was apart I still replaced everything with the Wiseco kit. Compression is now 115 psi. It seemed to be running good for a day or so but now it will not start again. Prior to the new top end, the plug would be wet when trying to start it. Now the plug is dry after cranking it over several times trying to start it. I have cleaned the carb twice since the new top end but it still does not seem like it’s getting gas to the cylinder since the plug is not wet. Spark is still good. It started twice yesterday and ran great but as soon as I shut it off it would not start again. Any help and ideas would be appreciated. If anybody in local in the Twin Cities (MN) let me know. Thanks in advance!
Just bought an 08 rincon when in auto it will reach 51mph when in esp i will only go 47 or 48mph. I have cleaned the throttle body and the the sensors with no change also has new plug. Is there a way to check or adjust the tps on this model i have tried the put in neutral and push the up and down shit buttons to reset it and that will not work on the 08 cause the N never goes to the — sign.
I won’t like to have my renegade dyno tuned rather than butt dyno it. One place will. Not return my calls or emails, the other local guy is swamped and is months out. Anyone know any places I can get this done at?
Looking for advice on how to get the rear drive shaft out, I just did the front shaft and replaced the U joints and on my first ride the rear U-joints crapped out on me. Looks easy to get to, just looking for tips on how to get it out.
replaced all pads this weekend
needed to loosen off master cylinder cap to compress piston each time to fit back over rotor but always tightened it back up before squeezing lever.
After pads were installed bike didn’t roll very easily in neutral, is this normal?
Also while on the left with wheels off, I ran it in 2wd and front wheels spun, is this normal?
I just tore a lower boot on my 500. Decided to replace the axle. Axle wasn’t seated properly so I had to re-do the whole thing. (Axle popped out of transfer case.) Had some thick grey oil leak out while I ran to auto parts store to get a new 17 mm socket (differential oil?). Now there is a squeaking sound, like brake squealers. I think that loss of (differential) oil may be the cause. What do you think? If it is that oil how do I replace it and what with? I’m trying to read through the online manual as you read this.
I just tore a lower boot on my 500. Decided to replace the axle. Axle wasn’t seated properly so I had to re-do the whole thing. (Axle popped out of transfer case.) Had some thick grey oil leak out while I ran to auto parts store to get a new 17 mm socket (differential oil?). Now there is a squeaking sound, like brake squealers. I think that loss of (differential) oil may be the cause. What do you think? If it is that oil how do I replace it and what with? I’m trying to read through the online manual as you read this.
So I am looking at going to a different tire and want to see if anyone is running or tried to run the 27" Zillas on their touring. Not to be rude, but to get straight to the point, it doesn’t matter if you have them on your standard 570. The touring model has the rear passenger foot rest braces that can be problematic for rubbing issues. I’ve read some posts regarding the 850 touring guys trying 28" zillas, but not sure how the 570 compares to the 850 T as far as wheel well clearance. I typically run 5 PSI all four corners and 5.5 psi in rear if wife is with me. Seems from what I have read the Zillas measure true to size measuring them at 7 psi unloaded (not mounted on machine). Guys measuring on machine seem to get anywhere from a 1/2 inch to an inch shorter depending on PSI when mounted. However I’m not sure how much the compression would help prevent rubbing at the footrest braces. I know bobx2 said he had some rubbing issues with 26" Bearclaw HTRs until he made some bending modifications. I already have delta steel 4+3 rims on the machine. Thanks for any help.
So a quick reason why I am considering swapping out in case anyone is wondering. I put the 25" Artrax tires on, and haven’t had any problems out of them, but it seems more and more the people I ride with only want to go to a local atv place that is on the canadian river (sundog), so its lots of sand and mud if we’ve had rain. They also have dedicated mud pits there. The Artrax are not mud tires, so they ball up in the sticky mud. They do great on regular trails and rocks though, which is what I would prefer to go ride. May keep them as a second set, but we’ll see. I’m still trying to get my buddies away from the convenience of Sundog and make the 1.5 hour drive to cooler places to ride.
