Have been a proud owner of a 2011 Grizzly 550 since 2012. Bought new and have put right at 2000 miles on the machine as of today. Have done all my own upgrades to bike and I’m just finishing up my first clutch install. Was looking to flush my radiator and replace with engine ice. Anyone have an opinion on the product? Love the site, hate it’s taken me four years to find.

I was hoping someone may have some experience in programming the afr values for a 2016 renegade 1000r, the only mods I have are the rjwc slip on duals and the afr+, I started with the recommended values, and played with it a little bit but not much, it doesn’t seem to have any low end, feels and sounds like it’s dumping to much fuel and bogs out before catching the powerband, and then obviously the other end of that is I keep getting to much air, popping and backfire..can’t seem to find good mid points, I haven’t played with it as much as I should, but I would like to make a more informed decision when I do, and keep my new baby’s engine as clean as possible with correct afr…thankyou!

Looks like there are currently 3 major players with exhaust for the 1000. I’m wanting to do something soon, but I don’t want to make a decision that I regret. Ideally I’d be able to see and hear these systems in person, but that’s not going to happen any time soon. I’m hoping that someone out there has either owned or experienced more than one system. My primary interest is the HMF and the RJWC. I don’t see that any have posted a true dyno plot of their systems.

GSE: Slip on system. Looks fairly well built, least expensive, seems loudest. Not sure what lurks inside as to baffles, etc. but it is sealed and no packing. Spark arresters (need 2) sold separately. Made in USA

HMF: Full system from the port out. Most expensive. Large 5" diameter can. Packed muffler with pop rivets on one end for service. Posted actual DB ratings http://www.hmfracing.com/exhausts/po…sportsman-1000 and dyno plots (XL system and fuel controller) https://www.hmfracing.com/files/mode…ortman1000.jpg on web site. Made in USA

RJWC: Slip on system. Most popular here. Options for sound levels, but need to be special ordered for quiet setup which adds lead time. Quiet system is said to not be as quiet as claimed. Said to fit touring "with modifications" but nothing factual about this, HP, or sound levels. No rivets, fully welded and "lifetime" packing. Made in Sweden

Hey guys. Mike here. I have a fairly new to me grizzly with some issues. It is breaking up at all RPM. Video below. I was getting the bike ready to go to HMT, after my great idea of preventative maintenance, I know have real issues.

First thing I did was check the valve lash. I loosened the front plastics to get access to the exhaust. Both valve were good, no adjustment needed.

I pulled the carb to check it out. It always seemed to want just a touch of choke to stay running. I thought maybe the pilot jet was partially clogged. Surprisingly, it looked really good in there. Just a touch of debris in the float bowl. All jets were clear. I removed the 2 diaphragms and then cleaned it out with carb cleaner and made sure all the openings were clear by blowing thru with my air compressor.

After putting it back together, it does not run right. It misses at all RPM. The spark plug goes black after just a few minutes of run time. I have to give it throttle to keep it running. It is not driveable in this condition.

Here is a video link of what it is doing.
EDIT, Can’t post the link yet. Need 10 posts

I figured that I must have messed something up with the carb teardown since it ran fine before I touched it. I took it off and checked it 3 times since. I’m no carb expert but, I’ve been into enough of them to know my way around and not be intimidated. I’ve done a number of carb jobs on street bikes (vmax) which is a similar CV design but, there are 4 of them instead of 1.

The diaphragms are both in good shape (no holes), installed correctly as are their covers. All jets are clean and clear. All passageways are clean and clear. Choke plunger is operating properly. I did a wet check on the float level by attaching clear hose to the float drain tube. I marked the carb body at 4.5mm. Fuel level is spot on.

After checking the carb multiple times and not finding anything wrong, I started checking electrical items. I replaced the plug multiple times with no change. New OEM coil. New NGK 5 Ohm plug cap. I even tried a different (known good) CDI unit. No change.

I checked to make sure the timing chain did not jump while rotating the engine during the valve check. With the flywheel on the "T", I took the cam cover off and the "I" on the sprocket lines up the pointer cast in the head.

I did resistance checks on the stator and pickup coil. Stator was good. White/Red-White/Green resistance on pickup coil was good. Red-White/Blue resistance was .208 vs the manual range of .085-.105. I’m not sure if 1/10 of an ohm is enough to call it bad?

About the only thing I can thing of that I haven’t done is put a timing light on it.

Open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks,
Mike

Hey guys. Mike here. I have a fairly new to me grizzly with some issues. It is breaking up at all RPM. Video below. I was getting the bike ready to go to HMT, after my great idea of preventative maintenance, I know have real issues.

First thing I did was check the valve lash. I loosened the front plastics to get access to the exhaust. Both valve were good, no adjustment needed.

I pulled the carb to check it out. It always seemed to want just a touch of choke to stay running. I thought maybe the pilot jet was partially clogged. Surprisingly, it looked really good in there. Just a touch of debris in the float bowl. All jets were clear. I removed the 2 diaphragms and then cleaned it out with carb cleaner and made sure all the openings were clear by blowing thru with my air compressor.

After putting it back together, it does not run right. It misses at all RPM. The spark plug goes black after just a few minutes of run time. I have to give it throttle to keep it running. It is not driveable in this condition.

Here is a video link of what it is doing.
EDIT, Can’t post the link yet. Need 10 posts

I figured that I must have messed something up with the carb teardown since it ran fine before I touched it. I took it off and checked it 3 times since. I’m no carb expert but, I’ve been into enough of them to know my way around and not be intimidated. I’ve done a number of carb jobs on street bikes (vmax) which is a similar CV design but, there are 4 of them instead of 1.

The diaphragms are both in good shape (no holes), installed correctly as are their covers. All jets are clean and clear. All passageways are clean and clear. Choke plunger is operating properly. I did a wet check on the float level by attaching clear hose to the float drain tube. I marked the carb body at 4.5mm. Fuel level is spot on.

After checking the carb multiple times and not finding anything wrong, I started checking electrical items. I replaced the plug multiple times with no change. New OEM coil. New NGK 5 Ohm plug cap. I even tried a different (known good) CDI unit. No change.

I checked to make sure the timing chain did not jump while rotating the engine during the valve check. With the flywheel on the "T", I took the cam cover off and the "I" on the sprocket lines up the pointer cast in the head.

I did resistance checks on the stator and pickup coil. Stator was good. White/Red-White/Green resistance on pickup coil was good. Red-White/Blue resistance was .208 vs the manual range of .085-.105. I’m not sure if 1/10 of an ohm is enough to call it bad?

About the only thing I can thing of that I haven’t done is put a timing light on it.

Open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks,
Mike

’07 Grizzly 450 Stock

Maybe it just because I went and adjusted my valves myself and now im just over thinking things but a few months ago I did my first valve check/ adjustment on my 2010 set the intake to .004 and exhaust to .006 i swear the motor was quieter before i did this and the valves really didnt need adjustment still in spec but i figured mine as well set them perfect while i have them open. recently my buddy picked up a 2016 650 xt hear his motor run and its deffinetly quieter than mine maybe do to the body change and having more plastics blocking noise? I dont know now im considering opening up and checking again but I know its going to show there right. I have resently put the small washers on the bolts of my primary clutch to get rid of some of the slop the long bolts have to eliminate some of the clutch noise. got the bike with 13 plow miles on it last year never been on a trail till me now it has 600 trail miles from me. Any Thoughts?

Does anyone know where i can buy the cap that goes on the end of the piston or if i even need it as in later models it was deleted from the calipers? Its #7 in the pic.

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Looking for feedback on the Mission MATV 83×14 ATV Trailer, and if anyone has any experience with it? I have a 2013 Outlander Max and I’m looking at possibly purchasing one, but I’m not sure it will fit since the trailer deck is only 83" wide, and the outlander max measures about 85-86 inches from the front tire to the rear tire, but I understand the side rails on the trailer are slanted which provides additional space. I’m also concerned that when you load the ATV from the side it will bottom-out on the side rail since it has a wider wheel base than a typical non-touring ATV.

I like the idea of this type of trailer since it sits lower than a typical "deck over" trailer, which makes the ATV’s sit higher and the trailer has smaller tires. I would also like to stick with a side-load trailer to keep the overall length of the trailer down. I have two touring atv’s – the outlander max and a Polaris Sportsman Touring, so I need something sufficient for two touring atv’s. Otherwise I would have to go with a 16′ rear-load trailer with dual axels, which I would like to avoid.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

I have a 2010 Sportsman 500 HO and know only of the four grease fittings on the a-arms, are there any more? Are there any good diagrams breaking down the quad like a service manual or something?

Hi, I just ordered on amazon this rack:

Item #2879717

Sportsman 570 / 450 H.O. Rear Rack Extender- Black | Polaris ATV Store

The polaris web page the fitment guide says it will fit my 2016 Sportstman 570 Touring SP, but found one comment from a user at amazon that says it wont fit.

Does anyone had already installed this rack?
I would hate to get that part shipped and find that doesn´t fit my atv.