for some reason I’m unable to type anything in the fields for new threads, or PM’s using Google chrome, anyone else having this issue?

IE seems to be working fine.

I have cleaned and cleaned and replaced all jets but if it sits for 30 minutes or more I have to take the air cleaner tube off and spray gumout into the carb to start the unit. Once started it runs like top. I have no idea what more to do except replace the carb. BTW, can any of the earlier or later carbs (eg, the 1987 or 1989) be substituted without creating dimensional issues?

I have cleaned and cleaned and replaced all jets but if it sits for 30 minutes or more I have to take the air cleaner tube off and spray gumout into the carb to start the unit. Once started it runs like top. I have no idea what more to do except replace the carb. BTW, can any of the earlier or later carbs (eg, the 1987 or 1989) be substituted without creating dimensional issues?

Anyone using anything besides the demand drive in the front diff on their scrambler 1000 or 850? I know mobil 1 Synthetic atf is an alternative but I’d like to know people’s results in their Scramblers. The dealership said that was the only one they’d recommend sticking with oem fluid since a few machines came in with problems when they tried something else. Scrambler’s only please that’s why i posted in this specific forum.

I purchased my first Polaris in fall of 2014 and was thinking that I had bought the best machine on the market, the jury is still out on that. My first trip out, it rained on us and in the morning my machine would barely run and sounded like it was firing on only half of the cylinders. It was flashing error codes that referenced the ECM. I took it to the closest dealer and they reset the computer and it was fine.

Within a few weeks, the rear cab along the right side (over the muffler) melted. The dealer (not where I purchased it) worked with Polaris to replace the rear cab. I got it back to the farm and ran it for 15 minutes and it melted again. This time it melted thru the wiring harness and damaged some of the other cables. Nearly 1 month later, I got it back after they replaced the cab and all the melted wires, cables, etc… and they also added heat shielding above and beyond factory specs. Also the mechanic told me that the exhaust manifold did not have any gaskets coming off the head.

Round 3, I have tried to monitor the heat and shut it down when it starts getting hot which seems to take about 15-20 minutes. After pulling my DR Brush mower (400 lbs of the supposed 1500 lbs tow capacity) for about 45 minutes it completely died. Cab had melted again, not as bad as in the past but now it won’t start and keeps blowing fuses when you turn the key. I took it back to the dealer and they have had it for the last three weeks. I call them once a week and they have not even been able to get it started yet. They told me that they needed to order a special tool from Polaris to continue the diagnosis.

I am hoping that Polaris will cover this under "good will" as this issue has never been resolved. However, it seems like many others are having heat issues with this same model but mine seem excessive. I do not ride this thing hard, I keep it in low gear as recommended when driving slow and/or pulling anything. I am wondering two things from the community of other Polaris users out there. 1.) Has anyone else had similar problems which the dealer was actually able to solve? 2.) What recommendations do people have on selling/trading this thing when I do finally get it back?

I’ve been in the market for a grizzly for a while and looked at new and used, finally pulled the trigger on a 2013 700 SE that popped up close to me.

Came with a rear bag, two sets of wheels, warn, plow kit, and some ramps. It has 143 miles on it so it’s pretty close to new for a few thousand less. Can’t wait to contribute to the community here.

I would post pics but I need to make 10 posts first it seems!

My 03 Predator is a pain in the butt..

A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:thanks:

Hello,

I just wanna see who has the highest mileage rig. My ’01 Traxter has 7,998 miles with same engine and trans. What’s yours?

Thanks

Putting 28’s on 2016 700. I ordered 1.5mm shims. Should I put purple spring in as well? Is this mod easy?

Hi guys,
So i disassembled the clutch for the 100 hour service primary and secondary.
Cleaned everything really good etc.
Popped off the bearings of the one way and having isoflex ready in my hand surprise surprise, they are sealed both sides! Both bearings sealed with metal gaskets not the rubber ones.
They had some markings on them and they were taiwan made.
So in my understanding they cannot be greased right?
They were pretty smooth though.

I also took out the sleeves and springs to see the difference (big no no for off road, next time they are going back in again)

So what is there left to grease?Only the inside of the one way?(which i did).

The bike is a 2015 outlander L

Thanks.