Hello everyone. I’m looking for suggestions as to why my 04 Outlander 400 Max now makes a "clack" sound only when initially taking off, or when quickly accelerating/decelerating, as in going over a bump or into a dip due to change in speed. I thought maybe the u-joints on the propeller shaft were worn, so I replaced them, but the clack sound is still there, otherwise the machine rides fine. Keep in mind, it’s only when starting to move, and when quickly accelerating or decelerating due to a bump or dip on the trail. Any ideas? One suggestion that I’ve had is that it may be a cv joint, but if it was that, then the clacking, which would be more of a clicking, would be continuous I would think. All the boots are fine, and no sign of any grease anywhere on the frame/wheels, etc. I did notice that the prop shaft is a LITTLE bit loose at the yoke joint. Is that normal?

I’m changing all the fluids on my 87 Big Bear 350 while waiting on parts. What type of fluid and how much does the transfer case take? I can’t seem to find it in the service manual.

Bob

Just looking to see if anyone has made their own rear cargo box and any ideas how to mount them?

I’ve made my own bracket to mount my outboard on my rear rack and just used a bolt that goes through the top and welded a nut to a plate that goes on the underside of the rack. Only thing is that the outboard is exposed to the dirt and branches, a blanket covers it but it’s a little bulky. I’ll be making some sort of rear cargo box so I can lay the motor down and have a lid on it.

As a former Rock Crawler, i love trails and the technical side of driving and not to fond of mudding or swammping (Yamaha has a fine line of outboard motors perfect for areas some of you ride, i digress).

After replacing the worn out rubber bushings on the A-Arms with the Race Driven kit (front and rear) I found that my bike was able to perform much better for my style of riding. Of course, removal of the rear sway bar i was able to keep for most of the time all the wheels on the ground.

I also discovered that with the additional freedom the A-Arms had the shocks were able to work as designed, which increased rider comfort and removed a bit of the trail fatigue allowing the suspension to suck up the trail bumps versus the stiffness rattling my back teeth. As a former paratrooper of 18 years this is a major plus on my ole back!

Only down side was some to the arms were a very tight fit while others had minor gaps which were fixed with thin washers (bike had been rolled before so may have been due to frame tweak-age)

Overall i was very pleased with the poly bushings versus the stock rubber bushings. Truly the only way to increase the the benefit would be to get new bolts for your A-Arms that had grease zerks bolts as well as a drilling the center metal spacer allowing the grease to move completely through the bushing

Have any other riders tried these? if so please leave your feedback

P.S. Race Driven have you worked these for the 2016’s or do the prior models work as well?

I believe I have a 97 trx200 type 2. I haven’t been able to find a data plate or Vin number and don’t have the title yet so not for sure its a 97. Anyway to the problem.

The front brakes don’t work, I’ve rebuild the master cylinder and bled and bled but still nothing. My main question is I’ve noticed on the parts sites there is a trx200D A, and a trx200D AN. one uses a switch honda part 35340-HR0-305. And one doesn’t. Mine didn’t have one when I got it but there is a screw hole at the bottom of the master cylinder. There was nothing in this hole when i receivedthe bike. Do I need this switch? What would this switch do? What’s the difference between the A and the AN?

Also looks like fluid is now leaking out of the piston on the rebuild master cylinder. Did I put one of the seals on backwards?

Thank you in advance for putting up with my ignorance, my long post and any answers.

I just acquired a 2003 Polaris trailblazer 400. It would start after a lot of effort. Then it would die after about 10 minutes. I checked compression and was getting almost 70 lbs. I pulled the head and both rings were broken. One was in 3 pieces, the other was in 2. I have ordered a new piston after having machine shop look at cylinder. I was told it needed to be bored 25 over. The oversized piston and rings are now at the machine shop with the cylinder.
My question is what else should I do? I keep hearing about crank seals. Should they be replaced? Anything else I should replace? What’s the best way to check the automatic oiler? The bike itself is in mint condition. I plan on using it for years to come. I want to get out and enjoy the trails. Any help is greatly appreciated.

By any straight get chance would the HD cv axles for a 2013 trx500 FM 2AC fit a 2015 trx500 FM6?

Here’s a couple of video after the QSC primary install.
My biggest problem is finding enuf traction to lift the front end. It sure likes to spin those Mega Mayhems.

shmoky

If you have owned both, and have some insight I would appreciate it.

I am looking to add another machine to the stable and not sure if I am comfy with the new tech.

EPA pollution control , sealed u joints ,endless electronics. Seems like a lot more to go wrong.

I know from my own experiences in the sledding world , todays technology is so much different than it was even 10 yrs ago, it is amazing. Power to weight ratios, ergos etc. ,the performance is incredibly better for sure but the durability and ease of maintenance has gone the other way , many service chores on a simple 2 stroke sled must be done by the dealer now due to the POLARIS " digital wrench" proprietary service system.

While power steering and EFI are enticing, the old adage "They don’t make them like they used to" is stuck in my craw.

What is the forums take on the new vs. old sportsmans ?

Has anyone done this and what were your impressions?

Seems to be lots of chatter on the Scrambler 1000XP site, but not so much here…