hi all, i know these things are known for the infamous clunk from the secondary helix but after 500 miles it seems to be worse. im just wondering if it could be something else or just getting broke in. any input is greatly appreciated

Hey guys, I have an 06 400EX that has a loud engine tick. Its not "the" engine tick all 400s have. Those are a smooth tick. This one is weird. I can start the bike up and ticks like crazy. Rev it up and let it idle back down and its gone… then suddenly starts ticking again. Some times it will tick/stop ticking in 20 second increments. Weird? Does this hot and cold.

** NOT trying to be rude… But I need helpful replies… Lets cover the basics first.

**The battery is fully charged, and there is gas getting to the engine**
^^^ :icon_ laughup::icon_ laughup:You guys have no idea how many times ive been asked that when the problem does not have any relation to that lol.:icon_ laughup::icon_ laughup:

-The valves are in spec. First thing i did. :bling:
-Timing chain replaced in early ’14
-Guides have little to no wear
-Rockers all feel tight, no play.
-Cam decompression removed (thought that was the problem)
-It does have the 440 kit on it.
-Tensioner retracts and expands normally, does not back off
-No smoking (so not piston slap Kit installed 6 months before timing chain)
-Cam lobes measure in spec… , HOWEVER, Why does honda not give a spec for the OD of the cam ends where they slide into the bearings???
Also, does the cam normally move side to side without tension on the chain? In a relaxed position? Mine will move side to side but only about .005" , So i dont think thats it. When i release the tensioner, everything is tight.

Any ideas????

:funnysuzuki::funnysuzuki::icon_ devil:

Hi. My 1998 Polaris Sportsman 500 has one stripped valve cover bolt hole, and another valve cover bolt broken in half in the hole. I used it two seasons before it started to leak oil. My question is : would it be simpler to just bore the stripped hole one size bigger, tap new threads and use the corresponding lerger bolt, and do the same in the other hole after drilling and removing the broken half of the bolt remaining in the hole Or use heli coils and stay with same size bolts? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks and greetings from chilly Québec where wood stove has now been going for 8 months….sigh.

I found the red plug near the radiator cap and want to tap into it. Because there are some differences to other years and some unanswered questions, I didn’t hijack the similar threads.

My goal is to get a useful connector, and I expect to use a 12v + USB type, probably marine grade (though I have second thoughts about the quality of many of these). I probably will charge a computer, phone, and power a winch and air compressor.

I am debating where to mount the plug.

A) The thru-plastics mount looks good, but is not really where I use or store my electronics.

B) The handlebar mount is convenient and clean, but an extra piece of hardware in an already busy place.

C) The stock location under the front rack looks good, but then I have an exposed wire on top. (?)

Opinions? Does anyone wish to change the mounting location they already have? Why?

Another question:

How do I remove that cover on the electric plug? @#$%^&*&^%$# Is there a special tool or what? If I open one side, the other closes, etc. I know how to break it – just looking for a better solution.

Also, does anyone know which wire is which? There are four (4): white with black stripe, green, red, brown and green racoon stripe.

I looked at the official Honda parts for "sub harness" and couldn’t see a picture or figure out the real difference of the two choices for plugging into the plug:

ACCESSORY SUB HARNESS Part #: 08Z00-HR3-A20
Allows installation of Accessory heated grips and / or winch. $5.95

ACCESSORY SUB HARNESS Part #:08Z01-HR3-A20
Allows installation of Accessory heated grips, winch and / or 12V socket. $10.95

The sub harness should be plug-in easy, depending on what terminations I actually get. Does anyone know anything about this? What is actually at the end of the sub harness?

The Honda plug does not have a USB connector, but the plugs I have seen on Ebay and Amazon don’t look very solid, even if "marine grade" Any specific recommendations?

Thanks,

LaPue

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My 2015 Sportsman 1000 XP has developed an issue. In 2wd the front diff is engaging when I spin the back tires. It is a violent engagement especially when I break the tires loose on a gravel road at high speed.
I would bet this is the cause of diff covers blowing apart. I have noticed that most guys have broken the front diff cover when running in 2wd.
I am waiting to hear back from my dealer and was curious if anyone else here is having the same issue.

I bought a 2003 Honda rancher 350 last November and haven’t drove it much. When I bought it if I let it idle a few minutes it would die but I figured it’s because the previous owners didn’t drive it much. I started it about once every month to let it run 10 minutes or so. In March I tried to start it but it wouldn’t start. It turns over but nothing more. I think it’s not getting fuel is the problem but not 100% sure. How can I diagnose the cause of this and fix it? Anyone else have this problem before? I’d really appreciate the help and if I get it fixed I’ll let you know. I’d take it to a mechanic but we don’t have any around that will work on it.

Thanks

I bought a 2003 Honda rancher 350 last November and haven’t drove it much. When I bought it if I let it idle a few minutes it would die but I figured it’s because the previous owners didn’t drive it much. I started it about once every month to let it run 10 minutes or so. In March I tried to start it but it wouldn’t start. It turns over but nothing more. I think it’s not getting fuel is the problem but not 100% sure. How can I diagnose the cause of this and fix it? Anyone else have this problem before? I’d really appreciate the help and if I get it fixed I’ll let you know. I’d take it to a mechanic but we don’t have any around that will work on it.

Thanks

Hey all hopefully you guys have some suggestions. My 2011 polairs sportsman 550 takes a while to engage as I give it throttle whether in high or low gear even reverse. The rpms will rise and then it will finally jump into gear… I just changed my belts and all my fluids so I do not know what time could be it doesn’t seem smooth like others.

Took the carb apart last night for the umpteenth time recleaned every hole, nook and cranny. Decided to check the float level for the heck of it and it was off by quite a bit. It was set at about 0.662", so I set it at 0.465". Drained all the gas out of the tank, put supreme in with no ethanol and a new spark plug. Closed the choke all the way and it started right up.

Run it at varying throttle positions for over an hour. We have state land that borders our place most is currently in grain stubble and if you know what the Palouse region of WA is like you know what I mean by farming steep hills. I ran it in the stubble and the hills for quite a while and it never missed a beat.

Started it again tonight and road for half an hour. Put the front fender back on. And will check the valves tomorrow night they were clicking some and I just want to make sure their not too loose.

Thanks to everyone for the advise and guidance.

Bob

Finally went riding in Maine with a new group of guys 7 can am’s 2 Polaris’s and one Kawasaki. Had a fricken blast!
don’t forget to set it to HD