Hey guys, I just got my first Honda a few weeks ago and now the wife wants her own toy 🙂
I came across this 250 on Craigslist for $250 and I’m going to look at it tomorrow. From what I can tell by the decals, it appears to be a 86 or 87 model. Looking at the pic the motor seems to be pretty clean and I don’t see a ton of rust on it. Rear plastic and seat obviously need help. I’ll know more tomorrow, but the post says it ran when it was parked and it will need a carb clean and oil changed. I’m sure it will need lots of attention, but it seems like a pretty good deal. What do you guys think?

Just tore into my buddies 06 Rincon. Have to quit for the day now but the valve cover doesn’t act like it wants to come off. I took out the 5, 8mm bolts and the 4 14 mm nuts. I didn’t want to budge so I took out the 210 mm bolts and I’m pretty sure hold in the rocker arms too just to make sure that wasn’t holding it in place. I got it up just enough for coolant to leak out, but can’t get it off, and don’t want to break anything. Am I missing something or just not prying hard enough?

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hello everyone I have a 2015 outlander max 500 xt . I plan on purchasing the factory beadlock wheels and was wondering about tires. If I dont want to use my original tires and want to stay at factory sizes 26x10x12 and 26x8x12 are there options. I see the big horns are 9 and 11 is this the norm. also would the big horns be the best for trail riding, thats all I do here in pa. the trails have a mix of rocks,roots and mud.
Thanks Frank

Lest anyone forget:

(vimeo)The Office – Car in Lake

WOMAN FOLLOWS GPS DIRECTIONS INTO FRIGID CANADIAN WATERS

Glad she is OK and is probably something her friends will never let her live it down.

I have a 2009 grizzly 550 and i know that clicking is most likely cv but i have replaced both my axels , changed gear oil , checked for anything loose on the frame and im still getting the clicking noise ive asked so many people and no one seems to know. its more of an annoyance but i would like to fix it because it definitely does not sound good. i cant really hear it if im out riding but when going slow you can hear it very loud.

Hi
Backstory: I have a ’07 500 x2. A year ago I upgraded my tires to some Maxxis ‘Zilla. I went with 26x9x12 and 26x12x12’s as per a Polaris shop…saying they would fit. well, they fit and I put maybe 15 hours on them since. I felt there was no issue, no rubbing I could feel and really didn’t even think about it because she rode like a champ.

To the present: after researching tires for my wife’s ’10 500 ho and wanting to go an inch bigger I started having trouble finding a right fit. So I kept it stock. This brought me to thinking about my machine. after some inspection I found that the tie rods are way too close to the tires and 26x9x12 don’t really fit up front. No rubbing or damage thank goodness. I know…I should have checked it before.

We ride on some open trails and some tight ones. Occasional water and some mud but we don’t go looking for that. No jumping and nothing overly aggressive.
So finally, here’s my question: how much of an issue would it be to put 30mm spacer on? I was thinking just the front? Bearing/axel damage?

I read a ton of threads and am getting even more confused because of the mixed reviews and preferences out there. Just looking for some facts.

Honda 350 Es rancher will not crank, I have both red lights illuminated!! Any ideas what the problem is

Wires disconnected from this connector and no way to rewire the female end of connector. My local polaris dealer is clueless. Can’t find the part on polaris’ parts site schematics. This is under the seat at the front end – bottom of the picture as you see it is front end of the seat. The disconnected wires are there on the grey connector. Any idea about a part number?

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Hi,

I have a rough 1986 trx350. I’ve had to do a lot of work to it, but eventually I got it running. It sat outside for months and would start right up with a remote tank. Then I found a tank for it, so I mounted it and figured I’d be riding it within the hour….I was wrong.

First I’ll note the ignition is gone so I just have had the red and black jumped when I want it on. It’s fugly, so I’m not really worried about it getting stolen. Going to get a good oem key and ignition for it soon.

Anyways, after installing the tank I realized the petcock was no good. Figures that would have been too easy. So I drop the suction end into the top of tank and attach to the carb. Fuel line was a little big so it spilled a little gas from the carb. It caught on fire.

It burned some of the 14 wires between the stator, 7 from harness, and the neutral/oil temp wires. Now I’m not sure where they even go so I can reattach and replace the affection sections of wire.

The service manual .pdf wiring diagram left me even more confused. It’s small blurry and not in color. I also can’t tell what color the wires I have are supposed to be called to located in the wiring diagram.

My main questions:

1. Is the green stator wire supposed to be hooked to the harness or where it’s currently hooked (one of the 4 from the neutral switch area)? I put it that way as those are the only greens with a little indicator ‘tube’ on it.

2. What color is the white or grey with a male end supposed to be? And the white with red striped, maybe light green?

I know the blue/yellow goes to blue/yellow, same for the red/black to red/black. But I’m not sure about the two in question. Everytime I guess and assemble, those are the two questionable ones as nothing else matches their color. I did manage to assemble them via guesswork and get a neutral light ONLY when jumping the solenoid.

Fuses all look good.

The fire was just under the carb and you can see there’s maybe 3 or 4 that really got affected. The harness looks fine. I doubt the stator suddenly went out or the cdi did that easily.

Immediately after the fire the neutral light worked and I could turn it over, but that’s when I realized I had lost spark. After testing for spark, the neutral light was gone.

I’m new to using multimeters, but willing to learn. I’d just like to find where these all go so i can have them correct and replace the sections affected by fire.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Thanks

Hi,

I have a rough 1986 trx350. I’ve had to do a lot of work to it, but eventually I got it running. It sat outside for months and would start right up with a remote tank. Then I found a tank for it, so I mounted it and figured I’d be riding it within the hour….I was wrong.

First I’ll note the ignition is gone so I just have had the red and black jumped when I want it on. It’s fugly, so I’m not really worried about it getting stolen. Going to get a good oem key and ignition for it soon.

Anyways, after installing the tank I realized the petcock was no good. Figures that would have been too easy. So I drop the suction end into the top of tank and attach to the carb. Fuel line was a little big so it spilled a little gas from the carb. It caught on fire.

It burned some of the 14 wires between the stator, 7 from harness, and the neutral/oil temp wires. Now I’m not sure where they even go so I can reattach and replace the affection sections of wire.

The service manual .pdf wiring diagram left me even more confused. It’s small blurry and not in color. I also can’t tell what color the wires I have are supposed to be called to located in the wiring diagram.

My main questions:

1. Is the green stator wire supposed to be hooked to the harness or where it’s currently hooked (one of the 4 from the neutral switch area)? I put it that way as those are the only greens with a little indicator ‘tube’ on it.

2. What color is the white or grey with a male end supposed to be? And the white with red striped, maybe light green?

I know the blue/yellow goes to blue/yellow, same for the red/black to red/black. But I’m not sure about the two in question. Everytime I guess and assemble, those are the two questionable ones as nothing else matches their color. I did manage to assemble them via guesswork and get a neutral light ONLY when jumping the solenoid.

Fuses all look good.

The fire was just under the carb and you can see there’s maybe 3 or 4 that really got affected. The harness looks fine. I doubt the stator suddenly went out or the cdi did that easily.

Immediately after the fire the neutral light worked and I could turn it over, but that’s when I realized I had lost spark. After testing for spark, the neutral light was gone.

I’m new to using multimeters, but willing to learn. I’d just like to find where these all go so i can have them correct and replace the sections affected by fire.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Thanks