I currently have OEM rims which I believe are 12×7.5 wide and the offset is 5.25"+2.25". Currently on OEM tires as wells which are 25×8-12 and 25-10-12.
I am looking to get wheels that are 12×7 and 5.0"+2.0" and run tires that are 26-9-12 and 26-11-12.
A lot of trails I ride have a 50" gate and want to make sure I will clear them.
i am in search of this i went through the wiring harness because it was a rats nest lol and alls i did was wire loom the wires and tape them off now i dont have power to my ignition or anythiong else for that matter
i am in search of this i went through the wiring harness because it was a rats nest lol and alls i did was wire loom the wires and tape them off now i dont have power to my ignition or anythiong else for that matter
I have 2016 Outty Max XT. It has 500km on it, has been greased regularly all bushing and driveline and because of this forum I’m well aware of the numerous noises our Can-ams make from a baby sloth to a full grown elephant :), however today I’m stumped.
I just got home from a 120km drive, high cruising speed (rail bed trail), low dust, hot day about 28C.
We first heard the noise in an unusual condition. We’re taking a break on the side of the trail, bike is hot but off, as we’re gearing up to go my gf sits on the back seat and we hear a noise that sounds like something deflating/whining which lasts for approximately 5s. I look under the rear of the bike, ask her to get up and sit back down and it does it again but fades quicker. I’m thinking a strut is making this noise or some suspension part, even the seat.
I start the bike and the noise returns :shock:, well now it’s not the suspension. The noise does pick up with RPM, does it in all gears and comes and goes. When I stop the engine it lasts for about 3 seconds after the bike is stopped.
I wouldn’t be posting here if it was only when the bike runs but it’s not. I’m stumped…any leads would be appreciated.
i bought an 86 homda 250 fourtrax to restore runs great but shifter is stuck in neutral doesn’t shift into any gear any ideas what the problem might be ?
I am looking for some input as to what route i should approach my situation.
I have purchased a 2006 out with 3200 kms on it. Took it out twice once in the mud and got it stuck, winched out no problem. Second time i rode it the through shaft broke. i can tell this bike was mudded a lot now that i have it apart. There was mud in the air box.
The previous owner had put a snorkel kit on it also he had large mud bitch tires. i haven’t measured but i would like to say 27". he also has what looks to be a factory primary and secondary clutches.
I’ve got the motor out and the through shaft out but I’m debating if its worth my while to tear this thing down even more, is it worth it to pull the case apart and look over the top end?
Also the input shaft on the transmission does have some up and down play in it. so I am assuming it will need bearings.
the secondary clutch helix is in rough shape and I’m pretty sure the primary needs an overhaul, Im debating buying aftermarket for the clutch. Also I am debating a Mr RPM 840cc BBK.
I originally didn’t want to spend a bunch of money on this as it is just a spare for the girlfriend. But if i do commit on this i want it done right. Does anyone know where is a good place to buy parts as I am sick of getting raped by Can Am dealer up here in Alberta. Im also wanting to know if there is anywhere to buy new plastic other than BRP.
Any Input is much welcomed as I’m sitting here in front of this motor debating how far to go
Currently running 27" mudlites which only measure 26.5. I want alittle more ground clearance but not a heavy 30" tire. Who has a 28" mud tire that measures true.
My grizzly came with aftermarket tires installed from the dealer. The fronts are 26×10 and the rears are 26×11… it seems to me the front 26x10s where installed on the wider rims and the 26×11 where installed on the more narrow rim.
I always heard the wider tires go on the wider rims. Is there any reason this would be done intentionally or did the dealer screw up? (Not that I would be surprised)
I’ll take a few pics in a bit
Thanks!
Today I finished the install of the remote grease nipple for steering stem bushing on my Outlander.
I decided to do this after finding out how much teardown is reqiired just to stop a steering squeek.
I purchased all the necessary parts ‘n pieces for $15.00 incl.tax which for me is totally worth it.
I used 3/32 plastic airline from the trucking industry, a brass 3/32 ferrule X 1/16 NPT fitting, a brass 3/32 ferrule X 1/8 NPT fitting, a brass 1/8 NPT coupler and a 1/8 NPT grease nipple. (Note: nobody will have and some will tell you there is no such thing as a 1/16 NPT tap size. This problem can be solved by using a 1/4 X 26 thread pitch tap instead.)
After much consideration I found the best place for the fitting to be off the font of the stem about 45° to the left of center. This brings the line out beside the cvt intake at the pod. I drilled a 7/32 hole in steering clamp and tapped it for the brass fitting. I then drilled a 1/8 hole through the bushing for the grease and enlarged this hole to 1/4" just deep enough for the brass to bottom into when clamp is reinstalled. After some test fitting I found a spot for the grease nipple that allows secure mounting and provides easy access by popping off the instrument pod.
All in all it was a bit of work but I’m happy with the result.
Pics below.
