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Last week I decided to order the MX2500 Viper Max winch with the blue 3/16" synthetic cable and the 2016 Grizzly mounting plate/kit (11928). I got online and ordered it from Motoalliance with the extra wiring kit which I plan to send back, because it was not necessary.
So I unboxed it, checked all the parts for basic fit and found that the mounting plate hardware kit was not satisfactory. Specifically, they included one M10 flat washer that was too small to fit the supplied M10 hex bolts, and both M10 split lock washers were also too small to fit the M10 hex bolts.
I had to go to my workbench supplies to find something that would work and this frustration is a simply avoided issue that I’ll inform Motoalliance about.
Next, I looked at how to wire my 12v contacts for the winch controller. After reading here on GC, I learned there may be a "dummy" extension of the wiring harness, and I found it! After lifting the battery/electrical cover and removing it, I discovered this connector with an empty and taped up end that I removed (not shown).
I tested both the black wire and the brown/yellow wire and found that it was indeed a keyed DC power source at 12v with my voltmeter. So I took the blank end and found a male wire connector to push into the left side (as shown in the next picture). The brown/yellow wire is the one you want to make contact with.
I crimped a piece of 18 gauge wire into it for contact with the brown/yellow wire, and got good contact with no wire splicing or positaps, which I think is the best overall solution. This connector was then pushed into the blank plastic harness connector.
So, I proceeded to remove the Grizzly brush guard, mount the wiring connector on the mounting plate, put the wiring boots on the wires, and put dielectric grease on all the terminals. Then I connected all 4 wires to the connectors and slid the boots on.
Then with the connector on the Grizzly mount plate, I installed the mount, and then installed the winch and the 2 wires for it from the connector. To get my red and black wires up to the battery terminals, I used a hooked coat hanger to pull the wiring connectors up along the rest of the wiring by the frame and zip-tied them on.
After that, I connected my spade connectors for the switch controller to the green and black contacts in the wiring connector and taped them up. Soldered my thumb switch red wire to my new wire/connector.
I mounted the thumb switch on my left side handlebars and zip tied it to the other wiring running down the steering system.
I then put the winch in disengage mode, unspooled the synthetic cable, undid the "BB", and fed it through the rubber line stopper and the aluminum hawse. Then on my first test, I had good operation in and out.
After that I was able to winch up and down in and out of my truck bed under a very safe and comfortable feeling front end contact.
I have not yet installed my cabled remote mount yet. I’m waiting to see where I really want to put it because it’s a permanent "drill" spot….
It’s a great winch that could be improved in 2 ways:
1. Better documentation
2. Accurate checking of included hardware.
I’d still buy it again. It feels like great quality and has worked 100% on several loading and unloadings.
Cheers
Scribe308
This noise has been there since the first mile and it is only in high gear, and it varies with the throttle movement. It also has the typical whine in park and neutral, and it also lurches forward or in reverse when either gear is selected. I jacked it up last night and spun the wheels up and poked around with my stethoscope and I hear the noise in the tranny but it could be resonating through from the secondary clutch. Now I hear no difference in the noise in high or low gear while listening to the tranny, which is weird because its very noticeable difference when actually riding the machine.
The machine shifted like crap when I got it and I found the shift linkage out of adjustment and got that fixed, although it still seems a little sticky when shifting through the gears. I think this could be related to the one way dragging too heavy?
Now I’m comparing these noises to my 2013 1k XT which is quiet as can be and shifts like butter. No clutch noise at all. My buddies 2013 XT-P 1K is quiet too.
My question is, where do I start here? I have a gates belt I could throw on and try? Should I replace my one way bearings to get rid of the hard shift and lurch? Im ok with the noise I guess if its the secondary, but if its tranny related I want it fixed. I want to try all the basics first before I consider a trip to the dealer.
Put everything back together added oil started and chatter loud fast everything that made me cringe. Pulled the primary off thinking who knows maybe it’s way too tight. Same thing happened after I retightened.
Pulled the primary off and started it and what do you know chatter is gone.
Now I’m putting my money on that "rebuilt" one way bearing. As without the primary on there would be no belt tension on it.
What do you guys think also put the one way bearing back in with the green dot and arrow to the outside of the motor hopefully I just didn’t put it in backwards
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2. Locate eps relay on right of battery, slowly and CARFULLY cut zip ties and tape to expel as much wire as possible.
3. Snip wires going to plug as close to the plug as possible and strip em.
4. Strip and solder you new relay harness don’t forget shrink tube.
5. Plug in your new relay with dielectric grease tape up your relay and loom. Replace all zip ties and oem loom.
6. Route the loom to your pod.
7. Test.
<OEM wire colour> <Position on Relay>
Red = Hot/live POS. <30>
Small orange = Keyed/switched. <86>
Bown = Ground. <85>
Large orange = Accessorie<EPS> <87>
Hope this helps. Couldn’t figure out how to upload pictures from the iPad
