I took my homade log splitter a mile and a half down the rode to my brothers, I noticed it was sagging a little more on the right side. Splitter has quite a bit of tong weight. Got there and my wheel was tweaked. Finally figured out the rear A arm on the right side was loose, the front bolt came out. I could still see blue loctite in the threads. Tipped it on its side and ended up using a hacksaw to cut the gusset and bend it down so i could pop the A-arm back in to place and put a temporary bolt in, I couldn’t find correct threads at his house so I hope I didnt screw up the threads.
Anybody ever have issues? I think I am going to pull them all and loctite em back on. Could have ended up worse I guess. So, I jacked it up and pulled one off the other side so I can get correct bolt tomorrow. It only has about 600 miles on it. Will have to tack the gusset together, not a big deal. That sucker is heavy tipping on side by yourself.
I just installed the full set of skids on my ’16 Grizzly.
Pros: solid, tight tolerances, won’t budge, great protection, good looks, quality hardware
Concerns:
– exposed bolt heads and no drain holes on front A arms as others have mentioned.
-The rear plate won’t fit with the hitch on the SE. VERY dissappointing since I called and asked that question specifically since I had read old threads stating that as well. The gal called me back after folks returned from lunch and said that it would work, although she didn’t see anything about recent design modifications. She offered to take off $20 if I didn’t want the rear plate, but I got it since she said it would fit….now it’s a paper weight and my rear inner boots aren’t protected. This would be an easy design fix, but apparently enough people havent complained yet.
-The cutout doesn’t align on the rear differential drain bolt like they do for the engine oil and front diff.
-The "nut plates" used on the front bash plate should not have welded nuts on them. It prevents getting a wrench on them to tighten the bolt (which are very tight fitting) I will be grinding them off the first time I take off the plates. They are great on the clamps because they stay in place when tightening.
I’ll have to make a couple changes myself: drain holes on the front A arms, grind off the welded nuts on the 3 nut plates, and perhaps cut a hole for the rear diff drain. A bit dissapointing overall.
I just installed the full set of skids on my ’16 Grizzly.
Pros: solid, tight tolerances, won’t budge, great protection, good looks, quality hardware
Concerns:
– exposed bolt heads and no drain holes on front A arms as others have mentioned.
-The rear plate won’t fit with the hitch on the SE. VERY dissappointing since I called and asked that question specifically since I had read old threads stating that as well. The gal called me back after folks returned from lunch and said that it would work, although she didn’t see anything about recent design modifications. She offered to take off $20 if I didn’t want the rear plate, but I got it since she said it would fit….now it’s a paper weight and my rear inner boots aren’t protected. This would be an easy design fix, but apparently enough people havent complained yet.
-The cutout doesn’t align on the rear differential drain bolt like they do for the engine oil and front diff.
-The "nut plates" used on the front bash plate should not have welded nuts on them. It prevents getting a wrench on them to tighten the bolt (which are very tight fitting) I will be grinding them off the first time I take off the plates. They are great on the clamps because they stay in place when tightening.
I’ll have to make a couple changes myself: drain holes on the front A arms, grind off the welded nuts on the 3 nut plates, and perhaps cut a hole for the rear diff drain. A bit dissapointing overall.
I have a 1994 trx300ex in the barn and I’m wanting to rebuild it with aftermarket parts and make it much faster but I’m not sure what all to do. I want it redone head to toe so if it’s for looks or performance I’m all ears. Also doesn’t have to be top of the line but also no crap either. Thanks
Hello everyone, this is my first post, so it’s nice to meet everyone. I have an 06 Grizzly 660 that is green. I bought the bike used so I had to settle on a color that I wasn’t happy with. I love the bike but after 3 years the color still bugs me. My question is, what model year plastics will interchange with my bike? Also, I really like the blue. Is the blue painted on or are the fenders molded in blue like my green ones are? And what other colors are available? I know this may seem silly but with my other responsibilities I just can not afford another bike and really don’t want one. I am very happy with my Grizzly, but I do want to invest in a different color.
Hello everyone, this is my first post, so it’s nice to meet everyone. I have an 06 Grizzly 660 that is green. I bought the bike used so I had to settle on a color that I wasn’t happy with. I love the bike but after 3 years the color still bugs me. My question is, what model year plastics will interchange with my bike? Also, I really like the blue. Is the blue painted on or are the fenders molded in blue like my green ones are? And what other colors are available? I know this may seem silly but with my other responsibilities I just can not afford another bike and really don’t want one. I am very happy with my Grizzly, but I do want to invest in a different color.
So here is probably the oddest info request you will ever see.
I want to temporarily disable the winch on my 2016 Outy Max 650, and my 2013 Outy Max XT-P 800R.
Why?? Don’t trust the kids. Where we are camping this weekend there is a massive mud hole….and the kids know it’s there. I told them I don’t want my machines in it….I think they heard me. I’m not convinced their friends will stay out of it.
Last year they fouled the 800 winch bad enough to need a grinder. I replaced the cable with rope. I would like to avoid the hassle. Thought about removing a wire from the winch and zip tying it to the frame, but wonder what happens if they hit the switch on the handle bar.
I haven’t looked close yet, is there a fuse I could pull?
getting code 15 on my display and the rancher will not shift. its a rancher at with the es and ps. i have trouble shooted all individual parts of the es system and done tests outlined in the service manual no luck everything checks out. have tried clearing the code but it comes back. at my whits end need a little hand if anyone knows the issue or has the solution it would be greatly apreciated. done the grease fix btw
