Would running a higher octane gas make any difference in anything besides my wallet? I have a buddy that says he only runs higher octane in his toys. I don’t see it hurting anything just curious what the benefit would be.

i bought my 1986 TRX350 A last week. Found moderate rust scaling and red goop inside the fuel tank. Looked for a Sticky on fuel tank cleaning and preservation.

Pulled tank and degreased with about a cup of Dawn and a 2 gals very hot water. Then filled it halfway with straight vinegar–loosened almost all the scale so now i am ready to do a final clean. What is the wisest method? I see the Kreem kit but is it really necessary to coat the tank? Concerned about blocking the internal fuel lines.
Does anyone have pics of the fuel tank plumbing?

i bought my 1986 TRX350 A last week. Found moderate rust scaling and red goop inside the fuel tank. Looked for a Sticky on fuel tank cleaning and preservation.

Pulled tank and degreased with about a cup of Dawn and a 2 gals very hot water. Then filled it halfway with straight vinegar–loosened almost all the scale so now i am ready to do a final clean. What is the wisest method? I see the Kreem kit but is it really necessary to coat the tank? Concerned about blocking the internal fuel lines.
Does anyone have pics of the fuel tank plumbing?

We moved from the country to the city having to get rid of most of our atvs and our 20 acres of trails we kept my fathers kingquad 750 and my mudpro 700. We always wanted a can am but they are ungodly exspensive where I am at even used but we stumbled on a 2014 xmr 1000 that just broke 500 miles comes with a 60 inch plow a nice two up and upgraded tie rods and differentials not installed we picked it up for 8500 and the dealer is installing all the after market parts for free because of the warranty he purchased which we won’t complain plus a full service. Hopefully it just as reliable as my mud pro in deeper mud and the power is like I’ve always said and thought untouchable can’t wait we are taking it to a place call bear creek this weekend to try it out

Been running the valvoline 1040 oil is there anything better to keep the motor cooler on hot summer days.thanks

Just bought a new Sportsman 570 Touring EPS
Kept the ITP Mud Lite XL 6 ply tires from my old Suzuki KQ
I know the wheels don’t fit but the tires are the same size
These Mud Lite XL are the ones with the 1 1/4" deep tread and are like new where I mostly used them in the winter for snow plowing then changed back to a std tires in the summer riding.
I blame these 6 plys for destroying the bearings , axles and rear diff on my old KQ and I am worried if I use them on my new Polaris it will destroy them too.
These Mud Lites are so stiff you can run them without any air and they never go flat.
Should I sell them and is there a use some of that money to buy a better tire for my Polaris or will you use them on the Polaris
How much could I sell my Mud Lites for mounted on stock steel Suzuki wheels?
What new tire would you recommend for snow plowing and mud on my new Polaris?
Maybe I can find a dealer that can trade in my Mud Lites with wheels for a new set of Polaris tires and wheels?

I just took my 570 Touring on a long ride and this is my first review.
My old 4 wheeler was a Suzuki 750 KQ and I understand my new 570 is a different machine.
What I like:
The strong suspension, I find myself sitting down and more comfortable on the Polaris going over ruts and rocks where the old Suzuki I had to stand up.
The power steering, note: I never had power steering on my KQ, but the power steering makes it too easy where I don’t have to fight it.
The low end power, the quick low end power is impressive, there when you need it, I never did a wheelie but I can feel the front getting light when I goose the throttle.
What I don’t like:
The engine braking! It’s too sudden, but I have noticed it’s not as bad the faster you go, I hope you guys are correct when you say after the clutch breaks in it won’t be as bad.
The heat from the exhaust, yes it is hot and I can notice it melting the plastic on the right side and it’s hot on the right leg, it does have 2 heat shields on the pipe and plan on rapping it with heat tape.

note:riding friends and family think I made a mistake buying a Polaris instead of a Japanese brand but any brand is a crap shoot, cause I had a lot of problems with my Suzuki and I am glad i’m rid of it, my former Suzuki soured the milk for me for all the Japanese brands. I am not trying to make myself feel better with excuses but I do admit I have buyers remorse second guessing myself that I should have bought another brand. I didn’t go with the extended warranty cause of past experiences of getting burned before by the dealer rejecting the warranty but what scares me is the high price such as $2700 for a new transmission, but I strongly believe if anything is going to go bad it’s going to happen when it’s new and covered under the 6 month warranty.
I could have got the CanAm 570 EPS for only $500 more and it comes with a no charge 5 year warranty but I know that warranty isn’t worth the paper it’s written on.
I understand all ATV’s have wheel bearing and axle problems and I am prepared to pay for that cause I did abuse it but I don’t want to pay $3000 for an engine or $2700 for a transmission, that’s my only worry.
Thank You for reading this and putting up with me.

99-00 400 2WD fresh motor. I’ve had problems with carb, pretty sure I’ve figured it out. Been sitting for 6yrs, welded 2 frames together to make a straight frame after lots of work.

After Mary warms up, the front brakes lock up. Not even using them, running down highway 50mph or so 3 miles and they lock up. After riding in back yard and heating up motor, fronts lock, no spin of tires. Dangerous I know. Gotta wheelie it home or get sloppy. Pulled tires, brakes, and hub. Bearings feel great and everything seems great. Warm up motor for 15mins and froze. Seems calipers are stuck closed until it cools down. After about 12mins I gotta throttle more to move. Then completely froze fronts. Steering brake gets super tight and extremely hard to press 1/8". Any suggestions? I am happy to give any info, please just ask. Thank you very much

99-00 400 2WD fresh motor. I’ve had problems with carb, pretty sure I’ve figured it out. Been sitting for 6yrs, welded 2 frames together to make a straight frame after lots of work.

After Mary warms up, the front brakes lock up. Not even using them, running down highway 50mph or so 3 miles and they lock up. After riding in back yard and heating up motor, fronts lock, no spin of tires. Dangerous I know. Gotta wheelie it home or get sloppy. Pulled tires, brakes, and hub. Bearings feel great and everything seems great. Warm up motor for 15mins and froze. Seems calipers are stuck closed until it cools down. After about 12mins I gotta throttle more to move. Then completely froze fronts. Steering brake gets super tight and extremely hard to press 1/8". Any suggestions? I am happy to give any info, please just ask. Thank you very much

I took my homade log splitter a mile and a half down the rode to my brothers, I noticed it was sagging a little more on the right side. Splitter has quite a bit of tong weight. Got there and my wheel was tweaked. Finally figured out the rear A arm on the right side was loose, the front bolt came out. I could still see blue loctite in the threads. Tipped it on its side and ended up using a hacksaw to cut the gusset and bend it down so i could pop the A-arm back in to place and put a temporary bolt in, I couldn’t find correct threads at his house so I hope I didnt screw up the threads.

Anybody ever have issues? I think I am going to pull them all and loctite em back on. Could have ended up worse I guess. So, I jacked it up and pulled one off the other side so I can get correct bolt tomorrow. It only has about 600 miles on it. Will have to tack the gusset together, not a big deal. That sucker is heavy tipping on side by yourself.