Hey guys I have everything installed but I can’t figure out how they want you to run the overflow line? The picture does show it to well. Any help would be appreciated

These are my "opinions" only! :peace:

So Thursday I finally got a chance to take the new 2015 out to stretch her legs. It had 0 km’s as there has been a province wide fire band for the last two weeks, we finally got snow then rain and the band is lifted, Whaoo!

Before I install the clutch mod and EHS box I needed to put app. 300km to adequately "break-it-in", according to the dealer. I loaded up and set off early in the morning in hops to put half the required km’s on, 150km. I didn’t quite make it to 150km but rather only got to 140km during a 5hr ride.

First I noticed that with the Rox riser and handlebar kit, made my position was every bit as comfortable or perhaps more so than the stock 2016 riding position.

I have read that some mentioned the EPS to be a tad bit better on the 2016 than the 2015 but I did not experience this at all, they both worked very well and felt identical while driving various terrain.

The ride seemed to be a bit, just a bit more plush on the 2016, not sure if that is due to the difference in tires, lift kit or seat design. The 2015 has the 28" Zilla’s (lift kit not installed yet) and the 2016 had 27" SwampLites with the lift kit installed, both with the same air pressure, app. 6psi.

The engine on the 2015 seemed to run allot cooler than the 2016 even though it was about 22 degrees C, my legs didn’t feel like they were on fire from the engine heat as I experienced on the 2016.

Power on take off and mid range appeared to feel very similar, I could only go no more than 1/2 throttle as I was "breaking-in" the bottom, as I was instructed.

During the ride I done a bit of playing and found the turning radius on the 2015 sooo much better than the 2016, the 2015 was more responsive and nimbler than the 2016.

I got more km’s on a tank of gas with the 2015 than the 2016, not by a hole lot, but better never the less. 90km on the 2015 vs 80 on the 2016.

I had an couple of opportunities to try out the breaking system a couple of times as the grass was pretty high and hid culverts quite well but managed to deviate from them all. Breaks seemed to be very comparable.

Just a side note on the tires, the 28" Zilla’s on the 2015 did not rub at all but the 27" SwampLite’s on the 2016 did rub every once and a while.

All in all I am very happy that I sold the 2016 and opt to purchase the 2015 as a replacement.

Below is a few pic’s of my outing… :happy2:

Has anyone else had problems posting pictures. It says invalid file. Never had that before and tried posting from desktop and mobile. Is there an issue?

Ok so I’m new to the forum I hope I’m in the right place I have a 1989 Honda trx 200 I was using it to travel around the farm and irrigate today and it was running really good and when I stopped and shut off and did a few things then got back on it started right up and idled good but as soon as I pushed the throttle it died… so initially I thought it was carburetor issues but as I messed with it more I found oil bubbling out of the pull rope hole the oil coming out of the hole gradually became worse the more it idled… so I’m my mind that means the crank seal went out and possibly drowned the stator but I’m not sure that’s why I’m here does anything have any ideas of what it is?

Thanks in advance.

Ok so I’m new to the forum I hope I’m in the right place I have a 1989 Honda trx 200 I was using it to travel around the farm and irrigate today and it was running really good and when I stopped and shut off and did a few things then got back on it started right up and idled good but as soon as I pushed the throttle it died… so initially I thought it was carburetor issues but as I messed with it more I found oil bubbling out of the pull rope hole the oil coming out of the hole gradually became worse the more it idled… so I’m my mind that means the crank seal went out and possibly drowned the stator but I’m not sure that’s why I’m here does anything have any ideas of what it is?

Thanks in advance.

Ok so I’m new to the forum I hope I’m in the right place I have a 1989 Honda trx 200 I was using it to travel around the farm and irrigate today and it was running really good and when I stopped and shut off and did a few things then got back on it started right up and idled good but as soon as I pushed the throttle it died… so initially I thought it was carburetor issues but as I messed with it more I found oil bubbling out of the pull rope hole the oil coming out of the hole gradually became worse the more it idled… so I’m my mind that means the crank seal went out and possibly drowned the stator but I’m not sure that’s why I’m here does anything have any ideas of what it is?

Thanks in advance.

Can anyone tell me where the oil filter is on a 2016 Honda rancher 420fm is located. I think I know but want to be sure. Mine just hit 100miles, and I need to get the break in oil out. Any help is appreciated and pics would be awesome.

Can anyone tell me where the oil filter is on a 2016 Honda rancher 420fm is located. I think I know but want to be sure. Mine just hit 100miles, and I need to get the break in oil out. Any help is appreciated and pics would be awesome.

I bought my 2016 Grizzly SE off the showroom floor last week and ordered the Yamaha Europe OEM 8 mm skid plate and a-arm protection and picked it up this week. I don’t know if it’s available in NA, however here in Scandinavia there’re three different OEM plastic skid plates to choose from. There’s the 6 mm which seems to be referred to as the "glide" skid plate on this forum, there’re also 8 mm and 10 mm variants to choose from and the a-arm protection only comes in 8 mm.

I chose the 8 mm for the added protection over the 6 mm as well as the slightly lighter weight and tiny ground clearance advantage compared to the 10 mm.

When i winched the grizz up in my garage tonight and removed the factory plastic underneath i was expecting a smooth install, however that wasn’t the case. First of all, the included instructions were written in finnish, which is a damned hard language to learn as it’s complicated and only shares its roots with hungarian, estonian and sami (lappish).

After copying the instructions letter by letter into google translate and receiving a surprisingly good translation into swedish (my native tongue), i set to work. After lightly seating the two front-mid screws into the chassis, i tried fitting the rear of the skid plate into place. I quickly realised that the tow hitch that’s mounted on at least the swedish Grizzlies fouls the skid plate by about 4-5 cm (1.5 to about 2 inches), i decided to let my dealer install it instead. I could fit it myself by dragging out the angle grinder, however i’m not really comfortable with dissecting my brand new plastic armour. There was also drilling to be done in the factory plastics and these two factors combined made me change my mind and i’m going to pay the dealer to do the install.

I had a new 2013 AC 700 which i fitted the alu skid plate and a-arm protectors to myself, that was very straight forward as it used only factory threaded mounting locations and custom hardware wrapped around the frame and a-arms to make the install bolt on – no drilling or grinding to be done.

Anyway, i just wanted to tell you about this, in case someone is on the fence about having the dealer install their skid plate or doing it themselves. The "Yamaha" oem tow hitch as well as most of the Yamaha oem accessories here in Sweden are produced by a swedish company though, so i can’t speak for the NA models and accessories.

On another note, i love the Grizzly! I’ve got about 40 miles on it and other than three or four stalls just above or coming down to idle when hot, it’s great. It feels light and nimble as well as powerful. I couldn’t wait to try a wheelie and it was easy to get it up on its hind legs in low while sitting at the rear of the seat. I didn’t get it to wheelie in high, however i’m guessing it’ll loosen up a bit when it’s had a few more miles under its belt. I’m probably going to get the shim mod done if i can’t get it up in high =)

Hey guys i apologize in advance if this question has been asked before. I owned a 13 scrambler 850 xp eps with a frame that is in really bad shape. i have done a ton of research online but other than buying the exact frame from a same model year scrambler, im not 100 percent sure if a different year xp frame will work. i called my local polaris dealership and they can get me a brand new frame but its going to cost 1800 smackers and it’ll take about a month to be delivered to alaska. any help would be highly appreciated.

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