Hi,
I am not anything close to an ATV mechanic. I use mine for hunting and some riding with the kids. I bought a used 2003 2×4 Rancher and the exhaust needs replacing – it is rattling, backfiring some. Can you give me an idea on what a good, inexpensive, quite(er) option would be that would be relatively simple to put on? I see a lot of options while searching, but I really don’t need a $300 chrome beast. A good parts link would be great as well for future orders. Thanks in advance for any help!
Not sure if this belongs in a different thread or not???
I have a pretty serious oil consumption problem on my 07 650 Max after partial rebuild. 2700 miles, problem started with timing chains and guide problems, engine starved on oil and toasted rod bearings. Crank mic’d out ok for standard rods and mains…purchased new rods from mrrpm, installed new main bearings, installed updated timing chains and all the guides, reassembled with new case gaskets, new head gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, etc. Machine runs great, plenty of power, etc. but it consumed a quart of oil in the course of 80 miles of trail riding. …did a little troubleshooting….I determined the burning of oil is coming from the rear cylinder by removing muffler and watching the exhaust at each pipe…see little puffs coming from rear exhaust outlet only…
I know when I reassembled, I could not remember which way the arrows are supposed to point with the pistons…they looked identical either way, so I just put it together so both piston’s arrow faces forward. Is this my issue? I think each are supposed to point towards exhaust???? only other thing I can think of is maybe bad valve seals (I have them leftover from gasket kit but didn’t install them)…There is not any oil blow by in the air filter box, no external leaks, compression test shows 165lb on front cylinder and 175lb on rear cylinder. both spark plugs look nice and tan but tail pipe is showing evidence that exhaust is burning oil. My other 07 machine has over 7800 miles and does not use oil so I did not replace the rings when I went through this motor. Do you guys think I should just try replacing the valve guides 1st and see how it goes??? or do I bite the bullet and pull the heads off again, install new rings, maybe change direction of piston on rear cylinder????……maybe time for a mrrpm big bore kit?? =) sorry for the long post
After a too high of a jump on a sandy trail I came to a sudden stop when I hit a tree :icon_ cry:
Fortunately I was able to walk away from it with nothing but a bruised ego ( and a few real bruises). On the other hand the bike got a few cracked panels and the bumper is bent along with the lower A-arm. Most important damage is a bent frame right behind the lower A-arm mount.
What would be the best way to fix this? Replacing it seems to be the right way to me but I don’t know what a frame replacement would involve and I have a lot of questions. Can I do it myself or I need special tools so a shop needs to be involved? Since the VIN number is on the frame , do I need to change the title? Is the warranty still honored? Any input greatly appreciated!
Hey guys quick question, I just rebuilt the top-end on a 2001 Honda Recon 250 for a friend and was wondering why everything looked so dry during the rebuild and then again after pulling the valve cover back off? So a little background, this guy left his quad at a relatives house who let their kid ride it.. Well when he went to ride it himself it lasted for about an hour, shut off and wouldn’t start again. After troubleshooting I realized his top end needed a rebuild or at least a set of rings because he had no compression. I tore it down and it looked like the kid never left first gear and floored it the entire time he rode it, his rings were completely worn flush with the piston and the piston was smeared over the rings in some places. Luckily I got away with only having to hone the cylinder, but of course replaced piston, rings, and gaskets. Rebuild went great it has plenty of compression and will fire up first pull every time but after only minutes of idling the head starts smoking. I want to say that this is just the typical smoke you would get from surface oil burning off the motor,but seems a little too consistent, so I have killed the motor both times it has done this to keep from ruining the fresh top end. Here’s my biggest concern, when I pull the valve cover off just to see if the oil is flowing properly, there is absolutely no traces of oil anywhere, it is as dry as it was when I put it back together. I was wondering if I’m wrong thinking that oil is supposed to circulate to the top of the motor and lubricate the valves, rocker arms, etc? Does the very top of this motor stay dry by chance? Keep in mind I have only had the quad idling I have not attempted to break it in and wont until I make sure the oil pump hasn’t gone bad or that maybe an oil port has been clogged.
Hello everyone, im from woodbury MN but ride all over MN and WI but mainly northern MN. I have a 2016 sportsman 570 that i am building, it has a 2" black path bracket lift, 2500# talon winch, 27" ITP 589 tires, 12" ITP chrome wheels and am planning on putting new rhino axles and a QSC clutch kit in along with some more aggresive tires. I look forward to maybe setting up a group ride in MN with new people!
I have a 2012 sportsman 850 and the power steering quits after changing the relay for it. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the relay and took it for a ride it worked for a few minutes and quit. they said they were contacting polaris about this but I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems??
I picked up a 41 x 48 harbor freight trailer for $150 off of craigslist. This trailer was built specifically to be towed by my sportsman. Tell me what you think.
My Ranger (TaskMaster-2006) is now 10 years old. Me and my wife use it daily for hauling horse manure and any thing that needs to be hauled or moved on our farm.
The gear shift lever has recently started to lock up or get real hard to shift after the engine runs for a couple of minutes. It works perfect before it has ran for a few moments. Any experience of solving this problem is greatly appreciated. I am a complete novice to mechanics and only do the basic maintenance required.
hey guys i was having issues with my ’13 (big surprise) in regards to the throttle position error and it was idling shitty so i bought a used throttle body and put it on now i’m getting an check engine code 51 3, which is a grounded injector i believe. anyone ever had this issue before or have any advice? thanks.
So the other weekend I decided to use my grizz as a boat and let me tell you she didnt like that one bit…. So after my many oil changes and making sure moisture is out of the cylinder I finally got it running nice.
However since then my reverse light is stuck on and I cant reverse well. its makes like a bogging noise at first I thought it was the CVT but I inspected it and it looks good.
Yesterday it went away for about 20 min and the reverse is working fine, so I am assuming its electrical. I am by no means a pro but I like working on my own bike so I was wondering where I should start looking?
My bike also doesnt hold a charge but when the reverse light went away it held a very small charge. Before swamping it the battery seemed to be great. Any help is appreciated!!!
