I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd
What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr
I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.
I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd
What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr
I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.
I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd
What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr
I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.
Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?
Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.
Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?
Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.
Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?
Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.
Hi guys was just wondering about something i was thinking of putting a different style light for my neutral and reverse on my 1988 Honda Fourtrax 300 4×4 was just wondering if that would affect the neutral for using the electric start
I thought I read here that it is best to use Low gear unless going faster than 40 mph because Low gear is easier on the clutch and belt. Based on my limited experience, I would think High is best as long as one is cruising at 15 mph or faster and not climbing. This shouldn’t be any harder on the clutch or belts and puts far fewer revs on the engine. I’d rather wear out the belt and clutch than the engine valves, rings, and bearings etc. Am I missing something?
There are exceptions. Low gear is best for sportier driving like power slides and faster acceleration. I would think Low would be best anytime its in 4wd.
Unfortunately the Operators Guide for my 2010 Renegade 500 doesn’t say anything about this.
I thought I read here that it is best to use Low gear unless going faster than 40 mph because Low gear is easier on the clutch and belt. Based on my limited experience, I would think High is best as long as one is cruising at 15 mph or faster and not climbing. This shouldn’t be any harder on the clutch or belts and puts far fewer revs on the engine. I’d rather wear out the belt and clutch than the engine valves, rings, and bearings etc. Am I missing something?
There are exceptions. Low gear is best for sportier driving like power slides and faster acceleration. I would think Low would be best anytime its in 4wd.
Unfortunately the Operators Guide for my 2010 Renegade 500 doesn’t say anything about this.
