I picked up my Xmr 1000 yesterday. Holy crap this thing rips. 2008 I bought an 800 outlander max. The motor blew twice, damn bike left me stranded in the bush so I traded it in on a Polaris first chance I got. Even since then Ive wanted a Can am again. When the Xmr 1000 was released I had to have one, it just took me a little while to get one. I ordered a Yoshimural pipe, probably the only mod I’ll get besides a gps. You have a great forum here, I’ve been following it for awhile. Probably what helped push me to go get mine. I’m looking to meet up with people in my area of the woods in Northern Ontario to ride the trails and Hydro lines with.

I picked up my Xmr 1000 yesterday. Holy crap this thing rips. 2008 I bought an 800 outlander max. The motor blew twice, damn bike left me stranded in the bush so I traded it in on a Polaris first chance I got. Even since then Ive wanted a Can am again. When the Xmr 1000 was released I had to have one, it just took me a little while to get one. I ordered a Yoshimural pipe, probably the only mod I’ll get besides a gps. You have a great forum here, I’ve been following it for awhile. Probably what helped push me to go get mine. I’m looking to meet up with people in my area of the woods in Northern Ontario to ride the trails and Hydro lines with.

Well the time has comes, with just under 300 miles on my 16 xmr the sway bar bushings have gave out…

So I ordered the whole garage products kit and some redline synthetic grease for installing!! Any tips or tricks before I do the job?

On a side note I rode all Memorial Day weekend and had a blast made it through every hole I attempted but 1. Have to love rotax power very addicting.

Got question Have a 93 300 it runs great when cold but it gets extremely hot after about 30 mins of riding. carb is completely rebuilt, new intake manifold, new ngk spark plug and when it gets hot it looses power and starts to spark knock. the only thing has been done about 5 years ago was timing chain replaced. check valve lash and set at .006. any other ideas what would cause this. just started this past year. the heat alarm doesn’t come on unknown if works. get so hot it burns your legs with jeans on Factory exhaust. Is there a way to check timing without pulling the side cover. Also just put a 128 from a 125 main jet and set the needle to the richest. Thank for any help

Hi all,
Could sure use some help. I purchased a non running 1994 Polaris 300 2×4 W947530. Rebuilt the carb and got it going. Was zipping around the yard no problem and then started fine tune the carb and it started to bog, surge, and bang.
Took apart the carb and recleaned it 2 more times and still have the problem. It will low idle all day with no problem but try to rev it and bog and surge starts up again.
The weird thing is that every once in a while it will rev fine so i will take it for a spin and in 100 yards it bogs down again.
I am out of ideas.

Here’s what I’ve done so far.
Rebuilt and cleaned carb. Float arms parallel per spec. All new parts from kit installed.
New non-ethanol premium gas premixed at 75 to 1
Oil pump works with amsoil intercepter oil (yes i am using more oil than needed just to be safe)
New battery
New starter and bendix
Etc works properly but has been disconnected for trouble shooting
Exhaust port is clear
*New fuel line and fuel filter installed

Any ideas appreciated.

Thx
Pigseye

I HAVE A 2006 350 RANCHER 2 WHEEL DRIVE MANUAL SHIFT. IT WILL NOT START OFF THE BUTTON. I HAVE REPLACED THE SWITCH ON THE HANDLE BARS, THE KEY SWITCH, THE SOLENOID AND I EVEN PUT A NEW BATTERY IN IT. iT WILL RUN LIKE A CHAMP IF I CROSS OVER THE SOLENOID. MY FUSE BOX LOOKS A LITTLE WORSE FOR WORN BUT I HAVE NO BLOWN FUSES AND HAVE GONE OVER THE WHOLE UNIT LOOKING FOR A BROKEN WIRE. DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLUE OR HAVE A REMEDY FOR A SIMPLE FIX.

I HAVE A 2006 350 RANCHER 2 WHEEL DRIVE MANUAL SHIFT. IT WILL NOT START OFF THE BUTTON. I HAVE REPLACED THE SWITCH ON THE HANDLE BARS, THE KEY SWITCH, THE SOLENOID AND I EVEN PUT A NEW BATTERY IN IT. iT WILL RUN LIKE A CHAMP IF I CROSS OVER THE SOLENOID. MY FUSE BOX LOOKS A LITTLE WORSE FOR WORN BUT I HAVE NO BLOWN FUSES AND HAVE GONE OVER THE WHOLE UNIT LOOKING FOR A BROKEN WIRE. DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLUE OR HAVE A REMEDY FOR A SIMPLE FIX.

I am helping a relative with this atv. It will kick start and run good. You can use a screw driver to jump across the soleniod and it will start. I have noticed that the neutral light will only illuminate sometimes. I have not figured out why or if that has anything to do with it. Also sometimes the starter wil not stop. It just contiues to spin after the engine is running. I read the battery cable routing info posted by Shade tree and the cables are correct. The solenoid was replaced with a cheap one from ebay. We tried 2 of these ebay solenoids thinking one of them was faulty but the problem persists. Any thoughts? I was thinking I would put new brushes in the starter, This atv is in really good condition so it is worth the effort to repair.

Finally got to put a few rides on my outlander l I love the suspension have not even adjusted it yet and it’s already great (need to bump the rear up for my big butt) engine is super smooth
I do however hate the dry storage box …it’s a great idea and would be super handy if they did not mount it on top of the muffler I put my truck keys in it tonight and when I got home they were scalding so any electronics in there is a no go which defeats the purpose of a dry box imo. Will need to find a replacement for it which is dissapointing.

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I have an issue I think may be starter relay related but not sure. 2005 450 with the 4 wire relay just like the picture in starter relay sticky. Has brand new main wiring harness and handlebar start switch harness. New cdi box. Got everything connected and it started. (Purchased non running). I connected everything up and put some plastic on it. Was going to drive it around the yard and as I started it it ran then acted like it wasn’t getting gas and quit. Everything was dead. Blew ignition fuse. Replaced and blew as soon as key turned on. Check fuse box and when ignition key is on it shows 12 volts from one side of ignition fuse to other side like it has a short. I unplugged every connection on the harness. I even disconnected the cdi box regulator and the wirrs that go into the stator. The key switch the run button and the starter relay are the only three plugs that changes it to no voltage. It acts as if it has a direct short. I can ground the volt meter or touch the other side of the fuse and both have 12 volts showing. When I saw the picture of the starter relay I checked my new one I got from yamaha today and the 2 spades closest to the battery and starter lugs are marked + and -. These 2 spades are direct short according to the multimeter. Are they supposed to be? Is what I am seeing so far the way it’s supposed to be acting? I planned on going to yamaha to test a new one to see if they had same results but wanted to ask fit’s just to get input. Thanks for any help.